Stuck choke

[jhedsy]

What did the smith do to get it out?

It was a 4 prong key that fit the specific choke I had. He told me it goes into a machine that spins them out. He also preheated heated the barrel too and told me that I was lucky that it didn't damage the choke.

I have seen online, that you can buy these special sockets and they have a hex head on the end for a wrench, but I think this one he used was different.

Something like this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/14...r-bernadelli-zolli-skb-4-notch-tubes-12-gauge

 

[MiniMe]

I had a flush choke stuck once and I followed a tip I saw in youtube.
Take the barrel of the gun.
Secure the choke key in a vise.
Hold the barrel against the choke key and turn it.

Got it out real easy and didn't damage anything.

 

[1963beretta]

Normally they use a BadAss Stuck Choke Tube Remover Tool
Cheers

Yup..works just like a broken bolt remover the more you torque in it, the more it bites in and unthreads the stuck choke. A quick jolt from and impact gun will break it free in a split second..faster then you can take your finger off the trigger of the impact gun

 

[Claven2]

Normally they use a BadAss Stuck Choke Tube Remover Tool
Cheers

This work as a last resort, but they usually roach the choke in the process.

If it's just rusted in a little, the socket type often offer enough leverage.

Or just use some anti-seize on the choke treads as part of regular maintenance and at least once every shooting season, remove the choke to inspect it, clean, re-lube and put back in.

 

[Winchested]

Amen on the anti seize. A dab goes a long way. Never had a stuck choke and I've left my guns wet and choke in and tightened down real tight with a Carlson's expanding choke wrench.

 

[3macs1]

This work as a last resort, but they usually roach the choke in the process.

If it's just rusted in a little, the socket type often offer enough leverage.

Or just use some anti-seize on the choke treads as part of regular maintenance and at least once every shooting season, remove the choke to inspect it, clean, re-lube and put back in.

Who cares at that point if you screw the choke no pun intended. After a heat gun and soaking it is all about trying to save the barrel after that and not screw the finish on it
Choke is small potatoes to lose at that stage
Cheers

 

[Boomer]

Let the barrel stand muzzle down in a container if brake fluid, to the full length of the choke, and check it every 3 days or so.

 

[guntech]

With stuck choke tubes I will hold the correct wrench in the locked chuck, force the barrel onto the wrench with the tail stock and unscrew the choke maintaining just enough tail stock pressure so the wrench does not slip from engagement. Sometime the wrench breaks and you have to get a better one.

Choke tubes are meant to have an anti seize grease on the threads and should be loosened and tightened after a shooting session and occasionally re greased.

 

[Claven2]

With stuck choke tubes I will hold the correct wrench in the locked chuck, force the barrel onto the wrench with the tail stock and unscrew the choke maintaining just enough tail stock pressure so the wrench does not slip from engagement. Sometime the wrench breaks and you have to get a better one.

Choke tubes are meant to have an anti seize grease on the threads and should be loosened and tightened after a shooting session and occasionally re greased.

This.

I sometimes use hardware store anti-seize, other times, I use some of the CVA breech plug anti-seize I keep in my range bag. This latter stuff is in a convenient application cylinder that looks like a glue stick and works the same way with a thumb wheel on the bottom. It's convenient to carry around and isn't runny or messy.

Both of these seem to work as well as purpose-bought choke tube grease but are much less expensive.

 

[rodregier]

Canadian Kroil source:

http://www.4gt.ca/kano-laboratories/

 

[3macs1]

With stuck choke tubes I will hold the correct wrench in the locked chuck, force the barrel onto the wrench with the tail stock and unscrew the choke maintaining just enough tail stock pressure so the wrench does not slip from engagement. Sometime the wrench breaks and you have to get a better one.

Choke tubes are meant to have an anti seize grease on the threads and should be loosened and tightened after a shooting session and occasionally re greased.

That works for most but not all. I had two here even with the right tool and at the end real heat on the barrel not a heat gun or blow torch either did we finally get them out. Yes screwed the barrel finish but both came out. Not that is matters but one was on a mossy 9200 and the other a mossy 500 that came off a fishing boat where it was stored and seen a pile of salt air and salt water
Cheers

 

[rocklobster]

Let the barrel stand muzzle down in a container if brake fluid, to the full length of the choke, and check it every 3 days or so.

Careful with brake fluid and Camo finishes!

I always used a dab of white lithium grease on my chokes and never torqued them down too hard. Its a choke tube not a lugnut!

 

[Cintax]

Choke tubes are meant to have an anti seize grease on the threads and should be loosened and tightened after a shooting session and occasionally re greased.

I use a Carlson's choke grease. It keeps the threads from becoming damaged or seized in place. I find that my chokes stopped working loose after using this stuff as well.

 

[Claven2]

I use a Carlson's choke grease. It keeps the threads from becoming damaged or seized in place. I find that my chokes stopped working loose after using this stuff as well.

The Carlson's stuff is just re-labelled breech plug grease, which in turn, is re-labelled hardware store anti-seize. It all works equally well if you ask me.