Stuck S.A.A. Cylinder Bushing...

Thanks, but haven't lived in Alberta for the last four years. I will take to a machinist I know & have it pressed out if all else fails here. Tricks for removing stuck bushings /bearings are always good to know. This thread may give somebody else a helping hand down the road...
 
Oil and a light heat and a little bit of pressure every couple of days until she gives, might take 2 applications or 2 months, but she'll move....Patience Imagine you may be the first man to field strip her in 100 years......cool eh!
 
Soaking in Kroil for the last 12 hours, tapping it at both ends every once & awhile. I'll guaranty that's the original bushing & wonder if it's ever been out? It needs a replacement, but I want to try and get this one out with as little damage as possible.
I don't think many collectors mess with the bushing for this reason. It's original and most won't shoot them. Just goes in their collection.
 
DANCESWITHEMPTIES said:
Soaking in Kroil for the last 12 hours, tapping it at both ends every once & awhile. I'll guaranty that's the original bushing & wonder if it's ever been out? It needs a replacement, but I want to try and get this one out with as little damage as possible.
I don't think many collectors mess with the bushing for this reason. It's original and most won't shoot them. Just goes in their collection.
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You never posted Why you want it out is it just worn to short makeing end shake? because you can buy a pack of end shake bushings (tiny thin Washers) from Brownells and also over sized center pins.
Sometimes thats better than fighting a stuck bushing. There ment to go behind the bushings shoulder but can go in front or behind as well seting up the head space perfect.
Its just they will fall out when you take out the cylinder. so be carefull, I hardly ever take out a cylinder once its in a gun tho. and if there oiled they stick together.
If its been hammered on and is flared at the end its gona be a ##### to get out.
I have had to Drill one out once or twice, that was a rotten job but it works use a set of drill bits to do it only a few tho apart in size once you get close to the outside they normally spin free. cant say that for sure but the few i drilled out came free before i hit the cylinder itself.
Sometimes just drill out the back end say a 1/4 inch into the cylinder will get rid of any flare then use the punch.
Hot and Cold like the guy pulling the car parts apart works good and make up a special punch and use a Press to press it out also can work.

Hope this helps some, i know its a pain getting them out if they been flared at the back end tho.

Taping from the front wont do much eh theres a Shoulder the only way to get a SAA Frist gen bushing out is punch out from the rachet end forward.
Hitting it back it wont move.
Once it moves from the back forward spray oil in the front exposed part. wait awhile then tap or better to use a press.
A good sized Drill press with a special made up punch in the drill press jaws works as a press in a pinch eh.
 
Bee's wax.

Get a pot or coffee can and melt enough bee's wax on the stovetop to submerge the piece.(a good cheap source is toilet bowl rings available at any hardware store.)
Hang it in the hot liquid wax for about 5 minutes and remove. tap out the seized part.
Wont hurt the finish what so ever.

The secret ingrediant in a lot of these high priced solvents is just that...plain old beeswax.
 
I want to put a new bushing in it, so I don't have to use spacers. I'd just like to get the old bushing out with minimal damage to it.
 
Maybe instead of pressing or beating it, try the hot & cold thing with tension from a handmade puller.
Some grade 8 redi-rod through the bushing with a nut applying tension, some sort of a bow shaped piece on the other end. Then hit it with heat and cyro.
It's pretty cool once you've seen it work; you become a believer.
Shouldn't cost you too much, more time and thought than dollars.
Good luck.
 
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