su-16 threaded barrel adapter

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willisworms

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I am thinking about making some threaded barrel adapters for the su-16. This adapter would slip over the existing barrel up to the front sight stop and have a 1/2-28 thread on the end. A set screw would hold it on the barrel, allowing all 1/2-28 barrel devices to be used. This would eliminate the need of having the barrel threaded,and solve the problem of what to do with the space between the barrel device and the front sight stop. As a start-up cost would be a bit expensive, I am just trying to gauge the amount of interest in this product. Sound off if you would be interested.
 
The potential problem with this is that I have seen barrels where the bore was not concentric with the contour. This could create a situation where the bullet could actually strike the muzzle device. Even if it was concentric, you might discover that the barrels are not all exactly the same diameter and a few thou' can make a big difference.
 
If the set screw came loose (even with 3 or 4 it can happen) a round could strike it. I would also think it would mess up your barrel harmonics. Any machinist that could make something like this, and make it concentric could also thread your barrel as well.
 
I see both of your points. but as this adapter would most likely be used for a flash hider, there would be no concern for the bullet hitting as the internal dimension of a flash hider is way larger than the bore. I'm not to sure of the internal clearance on a brake ( feel free to school me on this ) This adapter needs to slide over the barrel 1-5/8 of an inch to reach the front sight stop. That is a LONG way to work itself off, and it slips over the barrel so it could not turn sideways until it did fall off. For the record, I threaded my barrel, and made my own flash hider that is bored out to fit snug up against the front sight stop. I was just looking at this project for the masses.
 
Well, in that case I guess it's less of a safety concern. Harmonics might still be affected and you would have to find a strength vs weight ratio for the sleeve that goes over the barrel. One thing that would set me off personally would be set screw marks on my barrel if I decided to take it off, any rubber (or anti scratch material) between the set screws and barrel has a chance of melting as well.
 
I just sent my gun to Dlask! I was in the same boat and want a threaded barrel for my liner comp. I'm abit hesitant about a set screw design, any movement on the adapter would mean big risk for disaster.
 
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I can sell these only if people want to buy them, so hard to set a price, but around 40 bucks would be my thought. I myself don't see the problem with set screws as the front sight is already set screwed. There is no pressure to force it off unless a person was to try thread on an illegal device (gasp). How much does a barrel threading cost? The machining and material I would do myself, it's the anodizing cost I am concerned about.
 
Cost is between $60-120 bucks. Again if you have a comp or break on there and it moves and ends up in the bullets path, what would happen? Also think of liabilities.
 
The flash hider on mine isn't screwed on. I drilled out the threads of the fh to the diameter of the barrel. Drilled and tapped two holes in the bottom of the fh and attached it to the barrel with two set screws. No permanent mods to the rifle = KelTec lifetime warranty.
cd5d1682.jpg
 
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tbloggins said:
The flash hider on mine isn't screwed on. I drilled out the threads of the fh to the diameter of the barrel. Drilled and tapped two holes in the bottom of the fh and attached it to the barrel with two set screws. No permanent mods to the rifle = KelTec lifetime warranty.
cd5d1682.jpg
Click to expand...

There ya go! This adapter would cover the space behind your flash hider and the front sight stop, set screw in place just like the front sight does. It would then have 1/2-28 threads on the end to allow the use of any commercially available flash hider. All of this without modifying the end of your existing barrel. There seems to be some concern over the set screws. The marks they leave are already there, as the front sight is held in place with one. As long as this is used with a flash hider, there will be no pressure built up to force it off. I don't hear of people complaining their front sight falls off. A 17/32" bore slips over the barrel with a slight friction fit. It sits over a full 1-5/8" of barrel, which as far as i'm concerned, is a mile and a half before it could fall off. Anyway, I'm not seeing a lot of interest in this project. I will probably make a couple of these and post a picture. If there was interest I was thinking of setting myself up to anodize, But the first ones will be matte machined finish. I am not looking to make a business out of this stuff, just help out fellow CGN members and hone my skills in the process.
 
It's a good idea, like I said I'm concerned about the flashhider/break being angled after the barrel. Yes the sights are held with a set screw but it doesn't go near/past the end of the barrel. A flashhider/break would and could end up in a bad position. I look forward to seeing what you come up with though!!!!
We need more for our kel-tecs
 
It's a good idea, like I said I'm concerned about the flashhider/break being angled after the barrel. Yes the sights are held with a set screw but it doesn't go near/past the end of the barrel. A flashhider/break would and could end up in a bad position. I look forward to seeing what you come up with though!!!!
We need more for our kel-tecs
Click to expand...
On mine, it doesn't angle. There is no problem with clearance. I've put hundreds of rounds through this flash hider and it doesn't come loose or catch any rounds. I'm sure there'll be an impartial user review here shortly, as someone just asked me for one like mine.
 
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So this is where I'm at with this project. I turned a prototype adapter that fits quite snug over the end of the barrel, and put the 1/2-28 stub on the end. The adapter has a slight resistance fit over my barrel, you have to give a slight twist for it to slide on. With insight from another member, we have chosen to go with two set screws along the bottom as to keep them out of sight (thanks peircce) Only thing left to do is source some very short set screws, and drill and tap. This one is still just bare machine finish. I also am not sure about the diameter these should be. I made this one out of .75 round stock, and then took a skim off to leave a nice finish. The outside diameter of a flash hider I am not sure of, and don't know if you guys would want it thicker, or leave it like it is.
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y518/willisworms/adapter3_zpsb0e88ad1.jpeg

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y518/willisworms/adapter_zps5174a0d1.jpeg
My barrel is threaded, but I would assume yours is not, or you would not be interested in this adapter. I turned myself a flash hider with internal threads, so it would slide right up to the front sight stop. I'm not to sure about the slots I machined only on the top, but I wanted to try out my new collet vise and this is just what came of it.
What do you guys think?

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y518/willisworms/adapter2_zps18d93dc8.jpeg
 
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IMHO, i would prefer threading the barrel to accept the flash hider. Having the the sleeve with the threaded end made from aluminum would likely break off. Just keep in mind how many times we lean the rifle on the wall or set it on the ground in the bush. All it takes it 1 unfortunate drop to crack part of the thread where it meets the sleeve and go unnoticed. Repetative firing with this crack could further weaken and break off during a shot. Would you not prefer the sleeve to be made of steel instead?
 
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