substituting bullets

2112Lifeson

2112Lifeson

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So ive finally taken to plunge and bought a reloading press. The only thing i cant seem to get info on is what if you can't find the exact bullet thats in a recipe? Can you substitute if it's being replaced by the same grain and tip of bullet? like im looking at one in the hornady book for 9mm luger that calls for a certain product number of hornady bullet but as long as it's another 124 grain jacketed round nose bullet wouldnt that still work?
 
Yes but follow the golden rule of reloading. When changing any component, start over at the starting load and work up. Enjoy your new money pit....er, I mean hobby. Yeah, that's it, hobby.:D
 
As A rule Of THUMB
(In no order)

Buy a reloading book and read it

Start an Min Load data and work up (Published from a reliable source)
or If no min Load given ---= Max-10% = Start charge

Only make a few and test your reloads before you make lots

Use load data for jacketed bullets only for jacketed bullets
Use load data for lead bullets only for lead bullets

DON"T GO OVER PUBLISHED MAX LOADS EVER

If you have a proven Load and change something --- Reduce by 5% or 10% and work up

Speed is not everything ACCURACY is more important ---. Some times when you go too fast you loose ACCURACY

and to answer your question -- Yes you can use speer/ Hornady or ??? Bullet data with a bullet from another manufacture ----BUT START AT MIN CHARGE AND WORK UP

Read your RELOADING BOOK
 
2112Lifeson said:
so say the recipe calls for a jacketed hollow point. Can you use a jacketed round nose instead? does the the tip of the bullet matter in the recipe?
Click to expand...

Short answer, yes. But read your reloading manual for info on seating depths and OAL. When nose profiles changeyou need to adjust your seating dies.

Seriously, read your manual. Or get one if you don't have one.
 
2112, you may also want to consider using plated (as opposed to jacketed) bullets such as the CamPro or Berry's. They don't have the leading issues that cast lead does, and are noticeably cheaper than jacketed bullets. I use the Berry's 124gr RN bullets, as they are a bit cheaper than the Campro, but both have the same profile. I have been using these for a few years now with my Shadow, and really like them.
 
stevebc said:
2112, you may also want to consider using plated (as opposed to jacketed) bullets such as the CamPro or Berry's. They don't have the leading issues that cast lead does, and are noticeably cheaper than jacketed bullets. I use the Berry's 124gr RN bullets, as they are a bit cheaper than the Campro, but both have the same profile. I have been using these for a few years now with my Shadow, and really like them.
Click to expand...

yes i did see those. I'll probably be buying most of my stuff from budget shooter supply anyway. What book do you use? i have the hornady and lyman ones here at the moment
 
-Load data for lead bullets can be safely used for jacketed bullets. In rifle cartridges I use cast bullet (bare lead) data with jacketed bullets to produce reduced recoil loads. Just make sure the bullet weight matches.
-Jacketed data for lead bullets isn't dangerous but generally produces very bad groups and often bad barrel leading (as you are often pushing the lead bullets far too fast). In a pistol this isn't as much of an issue as a rifle.
-Load data for lead (jacketed or bare) can be quite different than for other bullet types (solid copper, steel core copper jacketed, solid brass, etc.) so it's best to not mix and match those ones.
-Barrel leading with bare lead bullets is caused by undersized bullets the majority of the time. A properly sized and lubed bare lead bullet wont lead any more than a copper plated bullet. You usually want 1-2 thou over bore diameter.
 
2112Lifeson said:
so say the recipe calls for a jacketed hollow point. Can you use a jacketed round nose instead? does the the tip of the bullet matter in the recipe?
Click to expand...

What changes between the two different styles of bullets is the length of the bullet (projectile). What happens is if you load to the data of the shorter bullet, then substitute the longer bullet with the same Overall Length (OAL) the resulting volume inside the case will be decreased (substantially as a % of volume in the case under the bullet).

Now, setting the bullet back maybe 0.1" more into the case doesn't seem like a big deal. However, in a small capacity, straight walled case, setting the bullet back that little bit can double to triple the peak pressure. I ran these scenarios through Quickload software, in a thread here on CGN a couple years ago, and even I was astounded at the results.

So the advice of backing off and working up is only partially valid, because pistol loads are very difficult to determine/observe high pressure loads. It is very easy to be running high pressures and not really be aware, until pressures become extreme, and something breaks. (kaboom, see link below)

A better check is to calculate the difference in length of the bullets, and seat the longer bullet out further, so the base of the bullets will all end up at the same depth in the case. This way, the manufacturers data should be pretty close for a given weight of bullet. Of course, still work up loads.

Also, loading longer (more volume in the case under the bullet) will reduce peak pressure.


Here are a couple threads from years ago with discussion of bullets being pushed in, which is exactly the same thing as seating a longer bullet deeper.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?320822-Bullets-pushed-in-!!/page2

This one has two topics, but interesting discussion, and at the end, acknowledgement from a (former) skeptic that it does make a difference if case volume is decreased.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?322686-How-to-Safely-Discharge-Primer
 
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