Sudden Accuracy Drop on a Savage Model 10 Precision Carbine

[Barnard308]

As someone who owns an have owed many Savages then can be a tad fussy so here's what I would do. Since the rings already came loose I would strip everything off the rifle- scope out of the rings, rings off the base, base off the action, action and barrel out of the stock. Clean everything and remove all residual oil build up,install action and barrel into the stock and torque to spec (make sure barrel is free floated all the way) then install the base and torque to specs, install rings torque to spec, install scope on rings and torque to spec. Once this is all taken care of and EVERYTHING is TORQUED give the barrel a really good cleaning with a quality copper remover and cleaning rod, I prefer felt VFD cleaning pads over patches as they get into the rifling better for a better clean. Take it out and shoot it, dont worry about tight groups off the get go as you may have a barrel that likes to be a little dirty (fouled) with some copper but your groups will tighten up sooner or later and then start to open up again once it gets TOO dirty. My Savage FCP-K like about 10 shots after cleaning the barrel before it tightens up again but some like more some like less.

You didnt mention if the action was bedded? If not, you may want to do this sooner then later.

 

[tiriaq]

It might also be worth trying a different scope.

 

[Sqr]

My Savage 10PC in .223 is a tack driver......but it loathes to be cleaned. If I clean it, it's 30rds to bring the groups back in tight.


Some barrels are just that way.

Correct....clean the firearm once the accuracy begins to drop off. Over cleaning can be detrimental to accuracy and longevity of a bore.

 

[Ganderite]

I've read a lot about cleaning rods damaging your bore. Do you really think you can damage your bore by a cleaning rod hitting it? I mean its forged hardened steel vs a little cleaning rod only moving against it as quickly as you can move it by hand. I really never fully bought into that my self but maybe I've been wrong

I have seen quality barrels ruined by improper use of a rod. the rifling forward of the throat, on one side, was wiped out. My gunsmith has a bunch of such barrels on display.

When I set up a rifle, I blue loctite the base screws. This is important because once the scope is mounted, I can't check them later. I don't locite the ring screws. Too easy to break them.

You did not say how many shots were in the sub 1" group. How many groups did you shoot. Maybe the group was a statistical anomaly?

 

[baker42]

What is the problem with bore snakes? A lot of people hold them in fairly high regard? If there is a legitimate problem with them I will stop using them though.

Best way to think of a bore snake is like using the same toilet paper every time you wipe. You bring all the previous oil, carbon, etc that you already had removed and send it back down the barrel.

I will admit I use them on my C8 to do a quick pull through when shooting a lot, and carrying on after that. But to actually clean any rifle after I'm done with it I use patches. That way it's a clean new patch each pass through.

Bolt guns, depending on gun I use a solvent cleaner to remove carbon when done, and a Cooper remover once I notice a change in groups, or once a year, whatever comes first.

As for group open up, always go back to the basics. If everything is tight, weather ammo same, check position and hold. Are you doing something different? Have someone else "give it a shot " and see... do they see you doing something different?

Do you have pics of the groups? The actual group can say a lot about what's happening sometimes!