Suggestions on bullet and powder for .223
- Thread starter Plink
- Start date
There is nothing wrong with trying a couple of 1 LB containers of different powder. You will likely tinker with different loads anyhow (this is a good thing) before you settle on a number of good loads.
One thing I will caution you on is in your work up of different loads:
When you're at the range shooting some of these loads, don't mix going from one that uses a ball type to one that uses an extruded type powder without cleaning between the two. It will mess up any accuracy tests your are trying to achieve.
One thing I will caution you on is in your work up of different loads:
When you're at the range shooting some of these loads, don't mix going from one that uses a ball type to one that uses an extruded type powder without cleaning between the two. It will mess up any accuracy tests your are trying to achieve.
The pointy end is to put a chamfer on the inside of the neck so it doesn't shave the bullet when you seat it.
The concave end is to take the burr off the outside of the neck.
When you're done, the neck will look sort of like you sharpened it, like a knife edge.
If you want them to be really beautiful, give the mouth a couple of twists on a piece of fine steel wool afterward.
The concave end is to take the burr off the outside of the neck.
When you're done, the neck will look sort of like you sharpened it, like a knife edge.
If you want them to be really beautiful, give the mouth a couple of twists on a piece of fine steel wool afterward.
Gotta love the sound of Varget kernels crunching as you seat the bullet on a 26 gr charge, especially when you seat to 2.260.
You're the second person recently to mention that degree of compression for this load, but when I load to 2.250, I'm not yet at 'crunching' stage???
Maybe the powder drops a little tighter through my funnel?
You're the second person recently to mention that degree of compression for this load, but when I load to 2.250, I'm not yet at 'crunching' stage???
Maybe the powder drops a little tighter through my funnel?
If you use a long drop tube, you will likely not get the crunching.
The crunching from Varget is likely but not neccesarily going to lead to a compressed load.
Hey guys, got myself everything I needed and have managed to put together my first few rounds... *yay*....
Yet another question, I see the overall length, as posted here, and in the Lyman book say 2.60.. However, when I measure a factory load, it's a fair bit shorter, something around 2.15 or so...
Why the difference? And, how, is any, will this impact my semi?
BTW, I picked up some Hornady and Sierra bullets, as well as Varget and H-335 to play around with ...
Thanks again...!
I seem to be saying that a lot.. LOL
Yet another question, I see the overall length, as posted here, and in the Lyman book say 2.60.. However, when I measure a factory load, it's a fair bit shorter, something around 2.15 or so...
Why the difference? And, how, is any, will this impact my semi?
BTW, I picked up some Hornady and Sierra bullets, as well as Varget and H-335 to play around with ...
Thanks again...!
I seem to be saying that a lot.. LOL
With regards to Varget, a factor besides for using a drop tube (I didn't) that is important is the brand of case and the chamber the brass is fireformed to. Those two things can affect the case capacity.
Go here http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html and look for the case weight versus capacity chart to see how different brands of brass can have different internal volumes.
So anyway, I went to the range today. This was my first time shooting reloads so I suppose it's a success that nothing exploded, but accuracy results weren't very encouraging.
My rifle is a savage 12 BLVSS (laminated, stainless steel, fluted HB) in 223. Loads were either H335 (22-24 grs) or Varget (24-26 grs) increasing in 0.3 gr increments. Primers CCI BR4, winchester fireformed brass, 68 gr Hornady HPBT. All loads seated 2.255 to 2.260, and all except for one were given a light crimp with the Lee factory crimp die.
I shot at a distance of 100 meters, and five round groups were solidly in the 1-2 MOA range, mostly being 1.5 to 2 MOA. Best groups were 1" 22.0 grs H335, non factory crimped, and 1" 25.2 gr Varget factory crimped. To make sure I wasn't the problem I tried some factory winchester 50 gr ballistic silvertips, and got a five shot group of 0.8". That's about comparable to how this factory ammo has shot for me before.
Unfortunately I didn't know beltfed's advice of needing to clean between ball and extruded powders (I shot the Varget loads after I finished with the H335 ones). Anyway, what things should I try to improve the groups? I still have 100 bullets and plenty of both powders. Should I:
a) Try a range of non factory crimped loads?
b) Load off the lands, even though I was hoping to keep magazine functionality?
c) Get the rifle glass bedded? It has a stiff laminated stock, and the action rests on two aluminum bedding blocks, but maybe bedding would help...
Go here http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html and look for the case weight versus capacity chart to see how different brands of brass can have different internal volumes.
So anyway, I went to the range today. This was my first time shooting reloads so I suppose it's a success that nothing exploded, but accuracy results weren't very encouraging.
My rifle is a savage 12 BLVSS (laminated, stainless steel, fluted HB) in 223. Loads were either H335 (22-24 grs) or Varget (24-26 grs) increasing in 0.3 gr increments. Primers CCI BR4, winchester fireformed brass, 68 gr Hornady HPBT. All loads seated 2.255 to 2.260, and all except for one were given a light crimp with the Lee factory crimp die.
I shot at a distance of 100 meters, and five round groups were solidly in the 1-2 MOA range, mostly being 1.5 to 2 MOA. Best groups were 1" 22.0 grs H335, non factory crimped, and 1" 25.2 gr Varget factory crimped. To make sure I wasn't the problem I tried some factory winchester 50 gr ballistic silvertips, and got a five shot group of 0.8". That's about comparable to how this factory ammo has shot for me before.
Unfortunately I didn't know beltfed's advice of needing to clean between ball and extruded powders (I shot the Varget loads after I finished with the H335 ones). Anyway, what things should I try to improve the groups? I still have 100 bullets and plenty of both powders. Should I:
a) Try a range of non factory crimped loads?
b) Load off the lands, even though I was hoping to keep magazine functionality?
c) Get the rifle glass bedded? It has a stiff laminated stock, and the action rests on two aluminum bedding blocks, but maybe bedding would help...
Hey guys, got myself everything I needed and have managed to put together my first few rounds... *yay*....
Yet another question, I see the overall length, as posted here, and in the Lyman book say 2.60.. However, when I measure a factory load, it's a fair bit shorter, something around 2.15 or so...
Why the difference? And, how, is any, will this impact my semi?
BTW, I picked up some Hornady and Sierra bullets, as well as Varget and H-335 to play around with ...
Thanks again...!
I seem to be saying that a lot.. LOL
The overall maximum length is 2.260, and this simply refers to the length the loaded round has to be under to fit in a standard magazine. If it's any longer (some people load like this so the bullet will be close to the lands) it must be fed into the chamber one at a time. For a semi, you need to stay under 2.260.
And yeah it's not strange that some factory loads come shorter than that maximum value. Just keep in mind that when you make your own loads, the load data will list a minimum overall length. If you load it shorter than that you could possibly get too much pressure. Also, I don't have any experience with this, but I imagine that if a round is too short it might not feed well from a magazine.
Agent Mango:
What did those chrono at? Did you shoot them farther than 100m?
I'd try speeding up the Hornady's if you are not seeing pressure...
I only load for my ARs in .223, and 25.5 gr. of Varget works good.
Sometimes the longer bullets give just o.k. results at closer ranges, but really shine out past 300m.
Your rifle alsp may not like certain components -a fact of handloading. Definately try out the 69gr. SMKs
What did those chrono at? Did you shoot them farther than 100m?
I'd try speeding up the Hornady's if you are not seeing pressure...
I only load for my ARs in .223, and 25.5 gr. of Varget works good.
Sometimes the longer bullets give just o.k. results at closer ranges, but really shine out past 300m.
Your rifle alsp may not like certain components -a fact of handloading. Definately try out the 69gr. SMKs
No I didn't shoot them past 100m, and I don't have a chrono. I did try a range of charges for each powder, from the min to max recommended.
I didn't see any sign of pressure for the max 24 gr of H335, but the bolt was just the tiniest bit sticky for the 26 gr of Varget (incidentally, if a bolt is sticky on a piece of fired brass, is it still ok to neck size and use again, or does it need a FL size?)
Yeah it might be worth trying some other bullets. What about something lighter though, since I am only shooting at 100m for the next while. Maybe a Hornady 50 gr VMAX? And where is a source of Sierra bullets anyhoo?
Thanks!
Neck sizing should be fine. Check case length and trim as required.
Yeah, if you are shooting 100m, lighter bullets will work fine, and in fact you may see better accuracy from a flat based bullet or spitzer from that distance than a boat tail.
I hear the Hornady v and amax are good stuff overall.
Sierra can be had damn near anywhere; Wholesale & Russell's around the Calgary area.
This is a good thread. I want to start reloading .223 for my 16" 1/9 AR15 using my Lee Pro 1000. So far, i've only reloaded .38spl and 9mm. So my questions are more towards case conditioning and also which Lee die set to acquire (collet vs FL; with or without factory crimp) ?
So what are the steps involved in case prep. with 1F brass ? I have a tumbler but nothing else. What equipment should I buy ? chamber gauge/case length gauge/Lee zip trim/etc...
Thanks!
So what are the steps involved in case prep. with 1F brass ? I have a tumbler but nothing else. What equipment should I buy ? chamber gauge/case length gauge/Lee zip trim/etc...
Thanks!
Well, if you got a press that you can put a sizer and finishing die on, then you are ahead of the game!
My dies contain a full length sizer, I think from what I read here, this is what you'll need as well
If you have already reloaded for handgun, you'll have a scale and all the other stuff, right?
Also, a trimmer will be handy.
Brass is trimmed to 1.750, I finish my .68 gr hornady to 2.260
My dies contain a full length sizer, I think from what I read here, this is what you'll need as well
If you have already reloaded for handgun, you'll have a scale and all the other stuff, right?
Also, a trimmer will be handy.
Brass is trimmed to 1.750, I finish my .68 gr hornady to 2.260
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X 2. Best load in my Win 70 Varmint.
I would get a RCBS .223 die set with Bullet seater and FL Sizing die since you are loading for a Auto feed, if it was for Bolt action I would say get both FL and either Collet or Bushing die.
FL Size the brass as it may not fit your chamber and as I stated above your loading for Auto feed rifle.
Lee Case Trimmer works well for me, if you're loading for multiple calibers you may want to look at the lathe style trimmer from Wilson/Redding/Forster etc... also a Digital Caliper works well enough for determining COL plus you can buy a Comparator for the caliper fairly cheap.
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