Surplus 7.62x54 problems.

Try pulling down your Chinese ammo, dumping the Charge into a fresh-primed Boxer casing and then seating the original bullet.

The only thing which is corrosive is the PRIMING MIXTURE.

The powder should not be corrosive.

End of problem.
 
In your situation I'd use boiling water followed by WD40 (WD stands for water dispersant) followed by a good bore cleaner. Once clean I'd run several patches coated with Flitz metal polish down the barrel, Flitz is the lowest abrasive polish you can get and it leaves an oil residue in the pores that makes future cleaning easier. It's certified safe for firearm bores. Several clean patches an you'll be golden.
 
In your situation I'd use boiling water followed by WD40 (WD stands for water dispersant) followed by a good bore cleaner. Once clean I'd run several patches coated with Flitz metal polish down the barrel, Flitz is the lowest abrasive polish you can get and it leaves an oil residue in the pores that makes future cleaning easier. It's certified safe for firearm bores. Several clean patches an you'll be golden.

Flitz is excellent stuff. Shined up some rough looking bores on some of my rifles. I picked mine up at Home Hardware.
 
All I can say is you need to run hot water , dry it out, solvent and last but not least oil her up. This has to be done if you shoot any corrosive ammo. Do it right after range time.
I ve gone over 400 rds of Chinese surplus thru my svt40. The rifle is as beautiful as on the day I picked er up.
 
All I can say is you need to run hot water , dry it out, solvent and last but not least oil her up. This has to be done if you shoot any corrosive ammo. Do it right after range time.
I ve gone over 400 rds of Chinese surplus thru my svt40. The rifle is as beautiful as on the day I picked er up.

The rifle was still hot when I did it.
 
Dave, you need to sell off that nasty Chicom ammo and get into reloading as outlined in post #11. Reloading will always bring out the best in a rifle.....and let you sleep better with no worries about that corrosive priming.
 
Personally use Wipe Out and find it fabulous. Shoot it in the barrel, leave it for awhile and then clean with G96/Hoppes9 or whatever good product you have. The foam will fill the barrel and do its work.

You can leave WO in for a day if you want and clean the gun when you get time. We also shoot some on the bolt surface as well.
 
For stubborn rifles I have to resort to a ballistol moose milk and bronze brush treatment. Getting all the primer residue out of the bore usually requires more aggressive cleaning than just patches can provide. I have a t33 that refused to stop rusting till I brushed it out with the moose milk.
 
Hoppes no9 claims to neutralize corrosive salts....


.


Hoppes does not at all dissolve salts. Dump a tablespoon of salt into a bottle of Hoppes, give it a good shake then dump it through a coffee filter. You will have exactly 1 tablespoon of salt sitting in the coffee filter that looks the same as when it came out of the box.
 
Back to the OP


Once you've neutralized and removed the salts with water, clear the remainder of the water with your bore solvent and finish with an oily patch til it comes out clean.

I've been shooting corrosive ammo for over 40 years in many different rifles. I have no rust, inside nor out on my rifles.
 
Hoppes and Balistol both claim their stuff neutralizes corrosive salts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U1W-kTL2rU

I just mix ballistol and distilled water and use that mixture to run perhaps 10 patches through the bore, then use straight ballistol and sometimes some sweets to get rid of the powder and metal fouling.

Never used boiling water. Never had rust

Now if I ever could remember to shop for a funnel and hose I might try the tea kettle approach...
 
Dave, if you have tried 10 percent of the advice in this thread you should not be having a re-occurrence of rust in your bore. As a minimum, if you do the hot water cleaning routine, followed by patching the bore dry and then using an oily patch after drying, you will not have a rusty bore. What does an oily patch look like after you have put it thru the bore 10-12 times? Maybe you could post a pic of an oily patch after swabbing the bore. About the only thing that hasn't been suggested here is to use Kroil, a fine penetrating oil, which will ooze into every crack in the bore and dislodge rust. It is so viscous that it will even get underneath metal jacket fouling and help to dislodge it. Maybe you could also post a close-up pic of the muzzle. Traces of copper jacket fouling in the bore can be mistaken for rust.

I'm not trying to tell you how to suck eggs here(maybe a bit though), but I and others are intrigued by this unique sounding problem.
 
I have been shooting corrosive ammo for years and only recently thanks to canam i have taken a break from my corrosive stash and gone to non.

I do not even use hot water anymore on my guns when shooting corrosive. Just a good cleaning with lots of G96 and occasional Hoppes to disolve the copper fouling a bit. I have no rust on my guns. I try to keep them a bit damp in the bore with oil and on surfaces and joints that tend to corrode a bit and no issues. I think people are scared of corrosive ammo. I also do not think corrosive ammo is junk either. Some of my favorite rounds in 762x39 are the Czech military rounds. Thousands shot with not a single FTF.

If there is an oil film in the bore or any metal surface there should be no rust. I second possible copper fouling. I have thought the same in the past.

Just my 2 cents.....
 
dave if your rifle has any rust it could be next to impossible to get all the salts out of the pitting. i had a similar problem with a rifle i got used. i had to put a cleaning rod with a brass brush in a drill and clean it for hours before it would stop rusting (using hot soapy water then solvent then oil).
after i stopped it from rusting i couldn't bring myself to go through all the cleaning again and ended up getting it re-barrelled before i ever fired it again.
i hope this helps you out in some way. good luck.
 
Back
Top Bottom