SVT 40 vs SKS

[milsurpo]

Mumbles: Do you have up-pressure at the forend tip or in the metal ring of the lower metal guard? I was shooting the other SVT at the friendly shoot Grelmar referred to and have managed to get my $200.00 Lever '41 Tula to shoot 1.5 to 2 inch groups at 100 yrds after fully floating the barrel (well as floated as it can be with all the junk hanging on it!). Note that the bore is only fair. Prior to that it had grouped reasonably well (4 or 5 inch groups at 100 yrds) with firm up pressure from the lower guard (via epoxy which I later filed out). I couldn't believe how easy it was to score at 440 yards- in fact I scored the same as with my mint Model 1917 at that range. Now Chumak, in the new book, doesn't appear to mention factory floated barrels but a few of mine (refurbs plus one possibly non-refurbed) came out of the crate clearly intentionally floated. Unfortunately they also come with loose fit, etc, and some take a little work as Mumbles Marble mouth has pointed out. Truly enjoyable rifles.

milsurpo

 

[Mumbles Marble Mouth]

Mumbles: Do you have up-pressure at the forend tip or in the metal ring of the lower metal guard? I was shooting the other SVT at the friendly shoot Grelmar referred to and have managed to get my $200.00 Lever '41 Tula to shoot 1.5 to 2 inch groups at 100 yrds after fully floating the barrel (well as floated as it can be with all the junk hanging on it!). Note that the bore is only fair. Prior to that it had grouped reasonably well (4 or 5 inch groups at 100 yrds) with firm up pressure from the lower guard (via epoxy which I later filed out). I couldn't believe how easy it was to score at 440 yards- in fact I scored the same as with my mint Model 1917 at that range. Now Chumak, in the new book, doesn't appear to mention factory floated barrels but a few of mine (refurbs plus one possibly non-refurbed) came out of the crate clearly intentionally floated. Unfortunately they also come with loose fit, etc, and some take a little work as Mumbles Marble mouth has pointed out. Truly enjoyable rifles.

milsurpo

That metal ring is pretty loose. I notice a lot of people have a hell of a time trying to get that sucker on or off but mine just pops off and on with out any real effort. I can run a bill though the entire stock even into the barrel shroud up to the gas tap. I'm all ready pretty happy with 4- 5" but if I can get this SVT-40 to shoot as well as or better than my Mosin, I would be willing to take this rifle elk or deer hunting.

 

[grelmar]

That metal ring is pretty loose. I notice a lot of people have a hell of a time trying to get that sucker on or off but mine just pops off and on with out any real effort. I can run a bill though the entire stock even into the barrel shroud up to the gas tap. I'm all ready pretty happy with 4- 5" but if I can get this SVT-40 to shoot as well as or better than my Mosin, I would be willing to take this rifle elk or deer hunting.

I notice from a couple of posts ago that you've removed the cleaning rod for shooting. The problem here is that the rod acts as a "lock" for the spring clip that olds the front band in place. On mine anyway, if the cleaning rod is removed, the front band slides right off. With it on, it holds the little spring hook in place and the band is (almost) impossible to remove.

What have you got your gas setting at? On mine, I had to have it at 7 the first couple of times I shot it for it to cycle correctly. Then, after taking it to the range a couple of times (and cleaning after), I noticed it was really throwing the spent cases, so I started dialing it down. Right now it's at 1.3 and running like a champ, and I'm thinking of dialing it down to 1.2 and see how it goes. When I reduced the gas setting to 1.3 my groups tightened up - less violent movement of the action is allowing it to settle down more quickly and reliably between shots.

Also, free floating might be the opposite of what you need to do. I've heard some have had success in accurizing it by "corking" the front of the handguards to tighten it around the barrel. Basically, shave a thin strip of cork and apply it to the tip of the upper and lower handguard where it is closest to the barrel. This has a similar effect (at least, the theory goes) to the rubber vibration dampener rings you see some people attach to their bench rifles.

Bedding also can make a huge difference. How easy is it to re-attach the trigger pack after dis-assembly? If it clicks in easy (mine require a solid whack with a pal thrust to lock back in), then you might have a little too much play around the receiver.