SVT hammer follow issues

Beater

Beater

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having issues with a SVT40 the hammer follows the bolt home about 50% of the time. it is unfired out of the crate and caught this dureing my cleanup. I cant actually see anything wrong anyone have any probs like this before?
I don't have another trig group to swap in to test or I would anyone here have a spare Tgroup?
 
It's broken and you should ship it to me free for inspection

Or more likely your gas settings need to be adjusted, there is a dial above the barrel in front of the shroud turn it up 1 notch until the bolt cycles properly to the lowest setting properly (start @1.1 increase to 1.5 in increments of 0.1 per turn of the dial it's marked don't worry). PM me if you need any more ideas I have 4 SVT40's I know them well.
 
philhut said:
Or more likely your gas settings need to be adjusted, there is a dial above the barrel in front of the shroud turn it up 1 notch until the bolt cycles properly to the lowest setting properly (start @1.1 increase to 1.5 in increments of 0.1 per turn of the dial it's marked don't worry).
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This is excellent advice.

Mine like 1.3...
 
You may want to see how freely the sear moves. Perhaps there is a big wad of grease and crap in there and it is preventing the sear from engaging the hammer. You may want to look up SVT TG dis-assembly or see how it functions to get a better idea. Not familiar with the SVT but if the sks sear sticks the hammer could fall once the bolt trips the disconnector. As you are having a follow experience something is not catching the hammer. So it would be a disconnector or sear type issue.
 
IMHO More than likely it caused by the safety(auto) sear lug and hammer safety notch being excessively worn and rounded. Or simultaneous wear of the main spring guide lug and trigger connecting bar leg(as per Repair guide). I am not into SVT's and I don't know what is easier, either sourcing just these small parts or the whole trigger mechanism. Or as per post above^^
 
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philhut said:
It's broken and you should ship it to me free for inspection

Or more likely your gas settings need to be adjusted, there is a dial above the barrel in front of the shroud turn it up 1 notch until the bolt cycles properly to the lowest setting properly (start @1.1 increase to 1.5 in increments of 0.1 per turn of the dial it's marked don't worry). PM me if you need any more ideas I have 4 SVT40's I know them well.
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well seeing as I haven't fired it yet, this has no relevance. the hamer will only stay back 50 % of the time cycleing it by hand
 
Beermaker said:
You may want to see how freely the sear moves. Perhaps there is a big wad of grease and crap in there and it is preventing the sear from engaging the hammer. You may want to look up SVT TG dis-assembly or see how it functions to get a better idea. Not familiar with the SVT but if the sks sear sticks the hammer could fall once the bolt trips the disconnector. As you are having a follow experience something is not catching the hammer. So it would be a disconnector or sear type issue.
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this has been done. no wads of grease or dryed cosmoleen stopping anything. all clean and looking good . looks to me like a mismatch and the bolt doesn't push the hammer down far enough to grab the sear
 
If you look on Numrich Gun Parts co. there are I believe three different sears for these rifles,you need to have a very sharp eye to pick the right one,ask me how I found out.
 
kinda what I figured I have found another TG and I'm hopeing this soles the problem and put the other in the parts box . if not I may be picking your brain a bit shortly
 
Exactly if it's not following up ready for the next shot your gas settings are too low. Try increasing to 1.2 or 1.3 then fire. Eventually you will find a sweet spot. I am shooting mfs FMJ at 1.2 on my Tula and Izvesk 41's. Haven't shot my podolsk ' yet. Save your money buy nothing different just adjust your settings. One of the requirements of the time was that the SVT40 operate as a strait pull bolt action if a problem arose in the semi auto action.

Also you need to fire a live round as the gas is required to cycle the action. If using snap caps it will operate as action strait pull bolt action.
 
philhut said:
Exactly if it's not following up ready for the next shot your gas settings are too low. Try increasing to 1.2 or 1.3 then fire. Eventually you will find a sweet spot. I am shooting mfs FMJ at 1.2 on my Tula and Izvesk 41's. Haven't shot my podolsk ' yet. Save your money buy nothing different just adjust your settings. One of the requirements of the time was that the SVT40 operate as a strait pull bolt action if a problem arose in the semi auto action.

Also you need to fire a live round as the gas is required to cycle the action. If using snap caps it will operate as action strait pull bolt action.
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you obviously did not read anything on this thread. again ill say I HAVE NOT FIRED THE RIFLE YET. I caught this dureing my cleanup and degrease. I'm the guy that took it out of the crate aswell so I know it hasn't been fired since refurb
I'm well aware of how to adjust a gas system, and how a semi auto rifle is SUPOSED to work.
 
As mentioned above, worn sear or trigger. Have you stripped and cleaned it? could just be crap in the mech. Worth a shot.
 
M1-Garand said:
If you look on Numrich Gun Parts co. there are I believe three different sears for these rifles,you need to have a very sharp eye to pick the right one,ask me how I found out.
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M1-Garand: I can't see the difference between these 3 on the photos on Numrich's site. I've also never heard of non-interchangeable sears existing and we all know these refurbs are complete mixmasters as far as origin of parts. Could you elaborate on what you've found? As to the OP's problems, the only thing I can offer is that the trigger group might not be perfectly latched into the frame? I have a couple that are so tight that I have to use a rubber hammer and brass drift on the rear tang of the triggerguard to get them latched. Beater- have you tried assembling without the stock to see how close the sear comes to engaging when you cycle by hand?

milsurpo
 
milsurpo said:
M1-Garand: I can't see the difference between these 3 on the photos on Numrich's site. I've also never heard of non-interchangeable sears existing and we all know these refurbs are complete mixmasters as far as origin of parts. Could you elaborate on what you've found? As to the OP's problems, the only thing I can offer is that the trigger group might not be perfectly latched into the frame? I have a couple that are so tight that I have to use a rubber hammer and brass drift on the rear tang of the triggerguard to get them latched. Beater- have you tried assembling without the stock to see how close the sear comes to engaging when you cycle by hand?

milsurpo
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stock is actually a loose fit. it needs to be shimmed after I get this prob figured\. I assembled the rifle out of the stock and everything latches up correctly and all that. bolt just doesn't push the hammer far enough down to grab the sear all the time. ive thought about stoneing a bit off the sear, or a bit off where the TG sits on the frame of the rifle. that's last straw tho. I have another TG on the way, so we will see. I'm hopeing its a simple mismatch and this other one will fit up better
 
milsurpo said:
M1-Garand: I can't see the difference between these 3 on the photos on Numrich's site. I've also never heard of non-interchangeable sears existing and we all know these refurbs are complete mixmasters as far as origin of parts. Could you elaborate on what you've found? As to the OP's problems, the only thing I can offer is that the trigger group might not be perfectly latched into the frame? I have a couple that are so tight that I have to use a rubber hammer and brass drift on the rear tang of the triggerguard to get them latched. Beater- have you tried assembling without the stock to see how close the sear comes to engaging when you cycle by hand?


milsurpo
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Sorry,I meant 3 different styles of hammers.
 
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