Swaging military brass primer crimps.

gushulak

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I am looking for a setup to swage the primer crimp from once fired military brass (5.56mm). I use a Dillon 550 press and would like something compatable with it, I was looking at the RCBS primer pocket swager but it will not work with progressive presses.

Anyone have any recommendations for a good setup or equipment? I am currently looking at the Dillon Super Swage 600 to bolt to my bench. Anyone have experience or comments on this piece? Any information or suggestions would be appreiciated. Thanks.
 
Ask Dillon. Their customer base is mostly in the US, and are probably very accustomed to handling USGI brass. Yeah, they'll sell you their product, but it comes with a lifetime guarantee.

Alternatively, ask Sinclair International the same question. If they say Dillon, buy one.
 
I have a Dillon Super Swage, it works great. I tried a reamer bit on an RCBS trim mate, it takes a lot longer and isn't as fun.

If money is no object, buy a 1050.
 
"...will not work with progressive presses..." Neither will any other swager. The primer crimp needs to be gone before the cases go into the press. There's no filling the hopper with milsurp cases and loading. Even with Dillon presses.
 
"...will not work with progressive presses..." Neither will any other swager. The primer crimp needs to be gone before the cases go into the press. There's no filling the hopper with milsurp cases and loading. Even with Dillon presses.

The Dillon 1050 has a swaging station.
 
"...will not work with progressive presses..." Neither will any other swager. The primer crimp needs to be gone before the cases go into the press. There's no filling the hopper with milsurp cases and loading. Even with Dillon presses.

I swag the pockets of every piece of brass, everytime I reload on my Dillon Super 1050 press - which IS a progressive.
 
I am in the same situation, but what confuses me is that some commercial 223 brass that does not seem to be crimped, does not prime too. Namely FC and Norinco.
 
i tried to press the crimp out but found it to be slow and not reliable all the time. so i got out my cordless drill the the right size drill to cut the crimp away, it is much faster and once you get the feel for using the right pressure on the case to remove the crimp it can be quite fast. i had 3000 rds to fix up and got them done in a short time.
 
i tried to press the crimp out but found it to be slow and not reliable all the time. so i got out my cordless drill the the right size drill to cut the crimp away, it is much faster and once you get the feel for using the right pressure on the case to remove the crimp it can be quite fast. i had 3000 rds to fix up and got them done in a short time.

+2, this is what I do too, except I put a lyman cutter in the chuck.

I load my .223 on a 550 as well. All of my case prep is done prior (F.L. size, de-crimp if necessary, clean case lube off, trim & chamfer).

The only things the 550 does is prime, powder, seat & crimp.

Are you or others planning/doing something different?

I have a Dillon super swage if you are interested. Hardly used.
 
+2, this is what I do too, except I put a lyman cutter in the chuck.

I load my .223 on a 550 as well. All of my case prep is done prior (F.L. size, de-crimp if necessary, clean case lube off, trim & chamfer).

The only things the 550 does is prime, powder, seat & crimp.

Are you or others planning/doing something different?

I have a Dillon super swage if you are interested. Hardly used.

I have a 550. I size, deprime and trim with the dillon power trimmer on one toolhead, then tumble the lube off. Chamfer and swage are done by hand, which isn't very time consuming with the right tools, then I load progressively on another toolhead.
 
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