30 cal collect and i get marks on the bullet like the ones shown, but im sure its fine to shoot.
swapping bullets on 7.62 x 39
- Thread starter Therion
- Start date
30 cal collect and i get marks on the bullet like the ones shown, but im sure its fine to shoot.
Has anyone had any problems reloading these 310/311 bullets into a 308 barrel (308 or 30/06)? The Sierra Manual states that acceptable results can be had loading the 310/311 bullets for a 308 barrelled Mini 30 and 308 in an SKS but I have not tried it. Thanks.
I used a .30 cal collet. I'm not saying that there were no marks, just that they were very faint on most bullets. I think the key was developing a feel so that I didn't clamp the bullets any harder than they needed to be, and most of that was possible because of the degreasing.
Hotwheels81
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- South of GP
I have tried all sorts of ways today to get em pulled without leaving big marks... It just don't wanna work for me... Best I can do is clamp the bullet with the collet and then force it down into the case a hair then quickly pull the bullet... Still leaves marks tho... Tried the seating die trick again and again but still hard as heck to keep a lock with the collet when I'm trying to pull the bullet... Oh well... At least i can get em out
The Czech surplus i have is a ##### to pull even if you push the bullet down in to the case, but the Russian i got from lebaron pulls easy with out the need to bush the bullet into the case. I have given up pulling the Czech altogether and just shoot it outdoor once or twice a year.
I don't think the marks are as big a problem as you think, try cleaning the collect and when you pull the bullets take it slow, so you can feel the bullet moving out of the case mouth, it also stops the powder from falling all over the press.
A local indoor range here in Edmonton does not allow steel core bullets to be fired. Therefore, I would like to do exactly what the OP posted in his first post.
I've revived this thread in order to get the very lastest information or techniques to accomplish this, while spending the least amount of money possible, of course.
The first question I have is do the inertial pullers that look like a plastic hammer work on milsurp 7.62x39 steel case cartridges and, if it does, will it be necessary to re-size the steel case before inserting another bullet of very close to the same weight as the original?
Please add anything that might help me accomplish this task.
Thanks.
I've revived this thread in order to get the very lastest information or techniques to accomplish this, while spending the least amount of money possible, of course.
The first question I have is do the inertial pullers that look like a plastic hammer work on milsurp 7.62x39 steel case cartridges and, if it does, will it be necessary to re-size the steel case before inserting another bullet of very close to the same weight as the original?
Please add anything that might help me accomplish this task.
Thanks.
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I use the Hornady bullet puller die that mounts on the press. I have a pile of 7.62 x 51 chinese that I make into "Mexican hunting" rounds very accurate and consistent. Some of the old FMJs I use as a base to make fishing tackle -think Panther Martin.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
It has been my practice to re-size the neck when I pull bullets, before seating another bullet - but I have never had anything to do with steel cases. I most commonly run into that when working up a "maximum" load - I run into pressure signs and still some increments of powder loads to go - so I do not shoot them - I pull them - case, primer, powder and bullet still good to re-use. You will read some simply re-insert a bullet and shoot it. Others will install a "crimp" to hold the new bullet in place. So, my guess is that "whatever works for you", given the toys that you have available - target results are about all that matters for testing - before versus after, or one way versus another way. I am sure that there are many readers that will want to hear of your results.
Considering that I'm going to have to spend in the vicinity of $300, or so, for bullets, a bullet remover tool, some dies and a press in order to remove the steel-core bullets and replace them with lead core (no Classic Lee Loader that I can find for 7.62x39), I'm seriously considering selling the 870 rounds (all factory-installed on 10-round stripper clips) we have (all nicely packaged in two waterproof, see-though poyethylene packages of 300 rounds (=600 rounds) that contain thirty smaller waterproof polyethylene-wrapped 10-round packages; and 26 loose polyethylene-wrapped 10-round packs (=260 rounds); and 10 loose rounds; 600+260+10 = 870 rounds), and buy a 900-round can of Ruag brass-case, lead core rounds that can be shot at the indoor range and be easily ejected after firing. Depending on what I can get for my ammo, maybe what I get paid plus what I would have paid for the tools to replace the steel-core bullets (and after that process still have steel-case ammo with corrosive primers), maybe I can be fairly close to the price of the 900-round can. BTW, I'm most likely not going to fire 900 rounds at the range during the rest of my elderly, and getting older by the day, life.
Sound logical?
Thanks for any advice.
Sound logical?
Thanks for any advice.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
What you have in mind sounds logical, but is different than how I approached the issue - there is a younger fellow on CGN who has come over here - he wanted to learn stuff - he uses my tooling and does the work - I believe he has been acquiring similar stuff for himself - he gets to see what is "good enuff" stuff and what is junk - I have been through both types - in some cases, many versions. So, I want him to be able to set up his dies every time, and to be able to pull bullets as easily as he seats them - meaning any "new-to-us" rifle purchase also involves purchase of reloading dies, bullets, inserts for the bullet puller, brass, powder and primers (as necessary). We both have RCBS Rockchucker presses, now - apparently a single stage press is very old-school these days - but they still work well. I assumed every reloader was set up like that, but I may have been in error.
When it comes to pulling bullets, I have both an inertial type hammer thing that you insert a round, then pound the unit on the floor - it has a sponge rubber inside that "catches" the bullet - but powder always all over, inside. Then, there is also an RCBS brand tool that goes in the press and uses collets - so I now have most sizes of collets, but did not start out that way. So far, I have found one or the other tool will get the job done. Seating a bullet is almost always done with the bullet seater die that comes in the set for that cartridge. I do make loading mistakes - sometimes it is me - sometimes the rifle that I have does not agree with what I thought I read in the various reloading manuals - sometimes my "guesses" were wrong - so I want to be able to pull bullets easily.
Apparently, I am also turning elderly - I turned age 70 earlier this past Fall - so the "end is in sight" of my shooting days.
I am considerably closer to the Final Exit than you are.
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Sounds good to me. When I pulled bullets in milsurp ammo, it was to swap fmj for soft points to make a few dozen rounds of hunting ammo. If I were in your position, I'd sell the steel core and look at buying a couple hundred reloadable brass and reload them multiple times.
Again, in the future I will be shooting only at the local indoor range -- a place that does not allow Milsurp to be shot, so I'm in a bit of a bind -- what do I do with my milsurp?
During one of my usual periods of, forgive me, "wokeness", last night, I had an idea -- instead of outright selling my 870 rounds of milsurp for X dollars, I would request "bids" in the form of typical brass-cased, non-magnetic cartridges that are acceptable at indoor ranges in the form of a simple question. "How many non-magnetic cartridges will you Equipment Exchange with me for 870 rounds of milsurp?"
At first glance, this may seem like a counterproductive idea, but here's my simple logic.
If you still shoot at an outdoor range, the inexpensive 870 rounds of milsurp may be more attractive to you than shooting your relatively expensive brass-cased, etc. rounds, as long as you see a beneficial ratio in the trade -- getting as many milsurp as possible for the least number of non-magnetics as possible. After all, that is the reason I bought the milsurp in the first place (least expensive per round), when my wife and I were members of the SPFGA and, later, at CHAS -- ranges where they PREFER that steel be at least some part of the bullet in order to somewhat reduce the amount of lead being fired into the environment (you know, like steel shot instead of lead shot).
What do you think? To sell and then buy, or to, at first, anyway, try exchanging? You reloaders may see another angle here that I can't, so please jump right it.
Thanks.
(PS I don't reload and I'm not ever going to reload.)
During one of my usual periods of, forgive me, "wokeness", last night, I had an idea -- instead of outright selling my 870 rounds of milsurp for X dollars, I would request "bids" in the form of typical brass-cased, non-magnetic cartridges that are acceptable at indoor ranges in the form of a simple question. "How many non-magnetic cartridges will you Equipment Exchange with me for 870 rounds of milsurp?"
At first glance, this may seem like a counterproductive idea, but here's my simple logic.
If you still shoot at an outdoor range, the inexpensive 870 rounds of milsurp may be more attractive to you than shooting your relatively expensive brass-cased, etc. rounds, as long as you see a beneficial ratio in the trade -- getting as many milsurp as possible for the least number of non-magnetics as possible. After all, that is the reason I bought the milsurp in the first place (least expensive per round), when my wife and I were members of the SPFGA and, later, at CHAS -- ranges where they PREFER that steel be at least some part of the bullet in order to somewhat reduce the amount of lead being fired into the environment (you know, like steel shot instead of lead shot).
What do you think? To sell and then buy, or to, at first, anyway, try exchanging? You reloaders may see another angle here that I can't, so please jump right it.
Thanks.
(PS I don't reload and I'm not ever going to reload.)
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I did this, took some Norinco non-corrosive, pulled the puller, averaged the powder for 10rds and then went down 10% and worked up to the standard velocity for 125gr bullets. I seated 125gr Hornady SST bullets for deer hunting, I really should have taken it this year.
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
It’s not FMJ banned at some ranges it’s steel jacket/core. I see their point as it can damage baffles and backstops. Ours don’t even allow steel shot I think they switched to rubber mulch in the backstop for the rifle bay.
I experimented with this in an sks to see if accuracy improved at 50 yards off a bag. I used the seater die to push down on the bullet (Chinese corrosive) to break the inner tar seal, then used a collet to pull the bullet. I simply swapped the bullet with a .310 hornady 123gr fmjbt. No crimp needed that steel case was tight. The group was considerably better than the original surplus, wish I still had the range pics with before (about 5” random spread just below and left of bull) and after (3” vertical string about 2” dead above bull). Only the new bullet was used, all other components were the same. Cases came out “sootier” than with the military bullet I suspect due to the lack of crimp and sealant. I didn’t chrony either, but suspect higher velocity with the hornady bullets as the group was also higher.
ILR, selling that ammo would be the best advice you can get.
Pulling the bullets from that ammo isn't easy.
As you've likely noticed, the bullets are seated to the base of the ogive. There isn't any way to grab those bullets with a collet type puller, and even if you press the bullets a few thou deeper, to break the weld or chemical sealant bond, you're likely going to go through a few inertia hammers doing it.
Back in the day, many of us went through this time consuming, and not very worthwhile process. We pulled the bullets, weighed the charges for an average, then reloaded with the average weight, under non-ferrous bullets.
The SKS wasn't intended to be a tack driver. Its gas system creates barrel flex, and unless the barrel is swapped for something heavier, 2-3 inch groups, with good bullets, is about the best that can be expected from most of them.
I don't know of any surplus 7.62x39 ammunition that isn't loaded with non-ferrous bullets.
Barnaul 7.62x39 appears to be standard milspec lacquered cased ammunition made up of new manufacture or new old stock, surplus components, the only difference being non-corrosive primers.
It's up to you, but IMHO, it's not worth the effort.
Saving it for when supplies dry up isn't a bad suggestion. Some people don't have space for that, or just can't handle having it around.
I've finally cleared off all of the corrosive 7.62x39 I had on hand. Don't miss it a bit.
