Swedes...

PerversPépère

PerversPépère

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It's been a long time since I fired my Swedes.
I have a very nice Ljungmann (still unfired by me), a Carl Gustav M-96 and a M-38 with turned down bolt set in an M-96/38 stock. Yes, I had to replace the stock because that M-38's stock was a "sporterized" horror complete with a wood putty plugged up cleaning rod hole and a nice varnish... :eek:
It's been sitting there in the corner of one of my lockers and I have decided to pamper it and restore the finish on that old stock.
Now, mind you, as a Finn Mosin collector, I know how much restoring a stock finish can be a tricky thing but I'm a complete rookie for these Swede crown jewels.
What finish did the Swedish armorers use? Is there a different finish for the walnut-stocked M-94 and M-96 as opposed to the beech or birch-stocked M-38s?
Thanks for letting me know, I don't want to do the Bubba sin on these!
PP. :D
 
PP, I have no idea how I can help with this except to say that doubtless it was some kind of oil finish, likely based on linseed oil (flax oil).

The problem is that different manufacturers did different things WITH the stuff before they used it, then just called it an "oil finish".

The original old Mauser/Oberndorf plant, for example, used linsed oil which was RED, accounting for the peculiar colour of the 1871s and the reddish 98s with lighter wood. I think this COULD have been the same stuff they used on the Swedes but I can NOT swear to it. Good point is that this peculiar oil is available from Mauser/Oberndorf in bottles ranging from about 4 ounces up to 5 litres.

Considering the great and tremendous expertise of SMELLIE on this subject, if I were you, I would WAIT until BUFFDOG has been on. He knows Swedes FAR better than I ever will. He is also a helluvva nice guy, but don't tell him I said that.

Hope this is some help.
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The correct finish for the period of your rifle would be Linseed Oil. You can easily get Boiled Linseed Oil, (BLO) at most good Hardware or Paint stores. It is the same as Linseed Oil, except it has a dryer agent in it.

If your rifle is a Carl Gustafs or Mauser action, it should have a straight bolt handle and was converted from a m/96 long rifle. A turned down bolt handle was a modification approved for later Husqvarnal m/38 rifles but if the bolt number matches the serial number of a converted CG or Mauser, it might be a replacement bolt.

The Swedes made no differentiation between a converted m/96 and a new manufactured m/38. All were considered m/38 short rifles. Generally, the Infantry still used the m/96 and the m/38 rifles were issued to Artillery, Transport, Engineers, and other troops that were not occupied in the front lines.

I would not use a Commercial paint stripper as it still leaves a residue in the pores of the wood. Also, NO heavy sanding, and keep the wood "proud" above the metal fittings. Do not sand the front finger grooves--they should be a bit sharp and well defined, not rounded off. The same with the bottom of the stock in the action area, the buttplate, and the tang of the action. Slow and Careful are the words here.

If you do not have a varnished stock, it might be better to just CLEAN it, rather than taking any old finish down. Some denatured Alcohol on a rag rubbed onto the stock will take off lots of dirt and crud, and you might be surprised at what you have left.

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@OP - Please be careful NOT to overfinish the wood. If you look carefully you SHOULD still see the marks of wood rasps used to shape the stock. This is not the sign of a 'don't care' attitude, this is intentional on the part of the Swedes who appreciated that it is easier, a -40C, to hold on to a rough-finished stock that a smooth and beautifully-finished stock. My own m/96-38, serial #895, is still rough in places, a sign that it has not been refinished by an unknowledgeable person over the years.

tac
 
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