swedish m96 and m38

Shootr2016

Shootr2016

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Hi All
I am thinking of scoping an M96 rifle. Does anyone know if a turned down bolt from a M38 would fit the M96 without
Alteration?
Also. Is it possible to turn down my existing bolt? Where would you get this done?
Thanks
Ron
 
Ha! "It depends" - I tried on mine - using an m38 turned down bolt - since it was a STIGA sporter is possible that was an m94 turned down bolt handle - that handle hit the eye piece of the scope - so mount scope higher or grind out that handle on top for clearance - in this case would be nothing left of the handle. At one time, TradeEx sold "sporter" bolts - I believe they were straight handle m96 bolt that were sawed off at bolt root, then a scope friendly handle welded back on - is a pretty basic gunsmith thing to do, I gather - so long as you have heat sinks, heat stop paste, etc. to prevent softening the cocking cam on the bolt body when re-welding.

Brownells sells, or at least used to sell, various jigs to hold pieces to weld - could buy "scope friendly" bolt handles to weld on, heat sinks, heat stop paste, taps to clear the bolt threads, etc. They also sold forging blocks for Mauser 98 - not sure if they had ones for m96 or not. Swapping out a different bolt body usually suggests at least a headspace check on the revised assembly.

Is also a possibility to consider a "scout" scope and mounting system - get the scope more or less ahead of the magazine - can still use chargers - do not have to alter bolt handle or safety - does not appeal to some people. Is not a "conventional" scope though - usually need an Intermediate Eye Relief scope - not a common hunting scope, not a pistol scope - for in between distance from eye-piece to eye.

OP specifically asked about turning down his original straight m96 handle - yes, is/was done commonly, as described. I also have a few that were apparently done by less than a professional - I chose not to use them. Besides "cut off and re-weld" - is also possible to partially cut, heat, bend and fill in the "knee" with weld, or find or make a set of forging blocks and forge the straight handle to be "scope friendly". I suspect most all "scope friendly" modifications to bolt handle will require a corresponding notch filed into the side of receiver and the stock notch for handle created or enlarged - for clearance. Do not want that bolt handle to touch the stock - metal to metal contact only - after confirming that the "new" bolt clocks properly. Also need to consider what to do about the safety - that "over the top" original safety flag likely will not work with a scope installed.
 
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Potashminer said:
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Is also a possibility to consider a "scout" scope and mounting system - get the scope more or less ahead of the magazine - can still use chargers - do not have to alter bolt handle or safety - does not appeal to some people. Is not a "conventional" scope though - usually need an Intermediate Eye Relief scope - not a common hunting scope, not a pistol scope - for in between distance from eye-piece to eye.

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Pet project! I have my eye out for a M36 that has been sporterized that is in good shape, for just such a project. M36 is the perfect length for a scout rifle, and stripper clip reloading is slick (I have an M96 all original). 6.5 x 55 is about as perfect a scout rifle cartridge as you could hope for as well... Plus no mags to fall out like about every other scout rifle on the market today. There are mounts available for either long eye relief scopes or red-dot type optics.
 
You can use the standard M38 bolt with a scope. You need to get extra-high or see-through rings to allow for bolt handle clearance. There is a good chance headspace will be OK, Swedes were generally built to tight tolerances.
 
Shootr2016 said:
That's alot to consider before attempting. Appreciate the info.
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While "noodling" about what is involved - consider the comb height and the sight line - the m96 seems to be pretty decent match for that original comb height and those issue iron sights. Of the ones that I tried, by the time you install a scope, even with very low mount, have to do something about the comb height to be able to have a cheek rest at all - else learn to do a "chin" rest, or however the WWII German snipers used their high mounted scopes. Most all that I did, ended up with after market stocks - to get a higher comb, and a pistol grip was always viewed as a bonus to take advantage of scope view, over the original military "straight hand" stock. Current one that I am still fussing with is nearly identical action, with a 9.3x57 Husqvarna barrel - in a Boyds Prairie Hunter laminate stock.
 
How about a badace no drill scope mount and a turned down bolt body from intersurplus. Has anyone tried this combination? I like the idea of no drill and tap. I have an all matching M96 in very good condition. I think it would be a sin to do that to it.
 
I can not help about the no-drill type mounts - I have a number of that type of action here that are drilled / tapped for scope bases - either as I received them, by factory (factory STIGA sporter), or by me. I had bought two of the "scope friendly" bolts for m96 from TradeEx - as posted above, even though they are different bolt bodies, was nothing significant changed for headspace when I swapped them out. I also have a Norma made CG63 - so built on a m96 receiver (I think) - with scope friendly bolt handle - bolt handle presumably done by Norma, or at least in Sweden - it currently wears a Leupold M8-12x - was drilled and tapped for conventional scope bases - I am still not sure if any FSR approved competition aperture sights use that particular hole pattern or not.
 
Dont know about the Badace mounts, but many years ago I used a B Square no drill mount on a M38 for my daughter as a deer rifle with a long eye relief scope on it.

I didnt want her getting a scope eye at 12 years of age, and this setup worked very well with low recoil and long eye relief. We killed deer with it and in all of the years she has owned it, the mount has never shifted. If you can find one of the B Square mounts, you wont be disappointed.

And you dont have to drill and tap the receiver.

Sorry for the photobucket logo over the pics, wasnt there when I first posted here, but you get the idea...

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Maybe words are important, especially if you have to order stuff in by mail. A Long Eye Relief (LER) scope, I think is made for a hand gun - like 20" or more eye relief - extend your hand out as if firing a handgun - that far. "Scout" mounted scopes are much closer to your eye than that - they use, I think, an Intermediate Eye Relief (IER) scope - so like 9" or 11" eye relief. It will not likely to work with a standard hunting scope - even good ones only about 4" or less eye relief. "LER" and "IER" might be abbreviations used by only some makers? - but eye relief distance should be listed in specs for most scopes that you order?
 
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