Swedish Mauser Questions

Rick65Cat

Rick65Cat

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http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=gustaf.jpg
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=Swedish.jpg
Above are pics of my Carl Gustaf 19(4?)3 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser. I'm sure its a '43 even though one scope mount screw goes through where the 4 is stamped. I want to change out the "see through" scope mounts cause i think they're to high.
I was looking at the weaver web site chart and it says I need the #55 rear and the #46 front for a "Swedish 96" Not being familiar with the 6.5 my first question is,...is mine a 96?
http://www.weaver-mounts.com/charts/charts.aspx

Next, theres a brass disc on the side of the stock. Long ago I was told it was to do with barrel wear over the documented life of the gun (I guess til it was removed from service) How does one decipher the numbers?
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=gustafdisc.jpg
Thanks, Rick
 
Yours would be an M38, just a carbine version of the M96, same receiver.
The 1,2,3 triangle is the bore condition, 1 being slight wear, 3 being the worst wear. The other triangle is bore diameter, 6.51 is checked off.
I forget what Overslag and Strech stand for....Torped I think means Spitzer bullets.
 
Tanks dood. :) Those other rings were just too high to fire comfortably. The gun was "created" by a buddy of mine back in the mid 80s in Ontario to be a "Bush deer gun"
I only ever used it for a couple of seasons deer hunting. Did bag a doe one year with it too.
I was kinda thinking about re-barreling it as the barrel is so short. But after thinking about it some more, I don't think the guns worth it.
Funny,...I've owned it since '86 and never turned that disc over...just flipped it over tonight.
 
I should forewarn you that while the #55 rear mount is the one called for M96 actions, that you'll probably have to either alter the mount or remove metal around the charger for it to fit. On my commercial Husky's I've seen metal removed from the rear/right corner of the mount to enable the bolt to cycle, the removal of metal around the mag charger so that the mount could fit far enough forward so as not to interfere with the bolt, and on another rifle tapped for the #55 mount where the metal was not removed from the charger, it appears as though the previous mount must have been ground down at the front for it to fit. The Swedes apparently liked to use aluminum mounts that were easier to ground down to spec if they did not want to remove metal from the action.

Regards,

Frank
 
About 19 inches. A friend who owned a gunshop in Ontario made this gun for me back in '86.
Cut back (sporterized) stock, Cut back barrel, Welded on a curled bolt handle to accomodate a scope.
 
Those see through mounts are/were quite popular for Swedes as they accomodate the original M38 bolt without alteration, and can be installed with the charger bridge intact. Mind you, they only have one screw attaching the rear base...
Have a look at the B-Square one piece mount - it would be relatively easy to install on your rifle...
 
Swede scope Mounts

Go with high Burris steel rings; worked out well on my M96. They use weaver mounts and are rock solid. Overslag, means holdover or windage correction> Torped means Spitzer.
 
John, I have the photo of the breech in a file where I can zoom in reaaal close. The parts of the digit not obscured by the screw hole are the top and the very bottom of the number.
The very top has a point exactly like the number "1" as does the very bottom have the cross "bar" like the number "1" of 19?3.
But if it is a 1 (19"1"3) the space between the obliterated 1 and the 9 seems like it would be too much as in the digits are to far apart. However a 4 would fit in there nicely I think.

What other ID marks would there be to determine the Mk and possibly the year?
 
Can you post the serial number? I have a chart that gives them by year but it's too bloody long to type out
The alternative would be to buy
"Crown Jewels" by Dana Jones, Excalibur Publications, that is the equivalent of Skennerton's book on the Lee enfield. It lists EVERYTHING you will ever need or want to know.
 
I sent the info to Rick, but to let the rest of you know, the serial number indicates the rifle was made in 1913, and the inspectors mark verifys that, as he served at the factory from 1 October 1911 to 21 September 1914
So that does make it a 96/38
 
Just got to sight it in now

Well, Its official. Thanks to John with the wealth of info on 6.5x55s its a 1913. (Johns real name is probably Yohn Yohannsen a good svede yah. :D

Heres a before shot with the old "See Through" rings.
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=Swedish.jpg

Heres the new mounts and rings with scope mounted.
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=NewSwedeMounts.jpg

Heres a closeup with the bolt closed
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=SwedeBoltClosed.jpg

And the gap for the bolt handle when opening
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/Gun Stuff/?action=view&current=SwedeBoltOpen.jpg

I would have liked to go a little lower, but mouting a different scope that has a larger bell on the eyepiece might make it bind.
The scopes at least a half an inch lower now then it was. Making it a tad more comfortable to line up
 
For your info, Numrich has hardwood and walnut sporter stocks for the Swede 38 with stepped barrels for $70 and $75 each. They are produced by Sile of Italy. Just a thought in case you want give your baby a more sporterized appearance.

Frank
 
I sent the info to Rick, but to let the rest of you know, the serial number indicates the rifle was made in 1913, and the inspectors mark verifys that, as he served at the factory from 1 October 1911 to 21 September 1914
So that does make it a 96/38
Click to expand...

Got it today John. Thanks bunches...Should make for good reading :)
 
"Verrrrry Interesting" as the little german on "Laugh-In" used to say.
The papers you sent John WERE interesting to read. I poured over the gun after reading to see if it was a numbers matching gun.
Removed the stock to see the serial number under the barrel (didn't know there was a number there)...it matches the breech. *ALL* the parts have the same number...except I noticed the top of the butt plate had "084" on it. The barrel, breech, bolt, etc. everything ends in 752.
when I separated the action from the stock (I've never had it out of the stock) I found the number in the stock, "461084" which is a 1918 production.
What are the odds my buddy who made up this gun for me would have a 1918 stock to throw onto a 1913 action. The fantasizer in me wonders if the swedes pulled a switcheroo?
And another thing..that stock disc probably would be for the original 1918 action wouldn't it?
Or would it?
 
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More likely the original stock was damaged and replaced in service.
Another possibility would be the long stock was in store and modified when the rifle was shortened.
 
Swedish Mauser

I bought a M96 Mauser over a year ago and remembered doing a little research on this. You might want to check these websites for interesting reading and specs on the subject. They also talk about the M38.
M96:
www.angelfire.com/nh/milarm/swd96.html

Picture and specs of each model:
www.northcapepubs.com/swmauser.htm

Swedish mauser sporterizing:
www.geocities.com/shrthair/swedmaus.html

Specs of M96, mecanism functionning, how to read the brass disk on the stock, etc...
www.chuckhawks.com/swedish_mauser.htm.

Hope this helps a little.
Danyboy
 
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