Swedish Mauser - What to do?

TwoTone

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So I've wanted a 6.5x55 for quite a while, just because...

I've got brass, bullets, dies.

I've even got the rifle, a Swedish Mauser with no stock and completely disassembled.

Somebody started a polish job on it and the stepped barrel sports a nice set of PIPE WRENCH marks. Apparantly somebody was planning to discard this barrel, which I assume is the original.

I want a 6.5 that will look sharp with a nice walnut stock and a blue job.
I want a scope.
I want to handload for max performance and accuracy.

Is the disassembled Swede a good place to start for this. I'm not afraid of a project at all but I don't want to bother if I can't achieve my goals above.

I don't know squat about Swedish Mausers but I get the feeling that hotter loads and scopes aren't their strong points.

How hard is it to find a nice semi inletted piece of wood for these?

Could I expect very good to excellent accuracy provided I come up with a quality barrel?

Maybe I should just sell it to someone who wants it and pick up some other bolt action in 6.5. How much would it sell for? Not much I'm guessing.

I'm open to comments, advice, suggestions, questions, criticisms, whatever.

Thanks.
 
The Swedish Mauser must be loaded to pressures suitable for its action, which is weaker than today's rifles. It will still be a potent hunting rifle and potentially quite accurate if you have a good barrel. Have a good look at the barrel and see if its still smooth and sharp. If its good, I'd say cost be damned, and dig right into this project. You may be able to get a nice semi-inletted stock from Boyds in the states. You can drill and tap the receiver for bases, I used Redfields on mine, but I don't know if they are available any more. You will need to cut and weld or bend the bolt handle to clear the scope. You will need to modify the safety to clear the ocular scope bell. If it shoots good, you can buy a timney trigger for a fairly cheap price for these rifles. If the barrel is good, I bet you can get moa or better out of one of these rifles.
 
You can pick up a NIW barrel from Tradex - 100$. You can pick up a decent stock from Boyds - 100$. D+T = 50$ The remaining issue is the bolt handle - even if its an M38 bent handle - it will require see through rings ...
In the end you are going to spend 350 - 400$, which is the going rate for a decent sporter with comparable features. I have several, they can certainly shoot under MOA with a bedded stock. If you like to shoot max loads, I would tend to go with a more robust action - although many claim the Swedish action is fine.
 
I will start by saying that there others on here that are more qualified than I to answer your questions but I will add what I can as I have a Swede and I love it.

I want a 6.5 that will look sharp with a nice walnut stock and a blue job.

You can get a Walnut stock from HERE they offer a 99% inletted stock for the M96/38. You can select different grades of Walnut up to "Exhibition Grade" depending on how much you want to spend.

Bluing is another story. I am in the process of determining which way to go on that for another project that I have going (more on that in a bit). If you want to do it yourself search the forum/net for "cold bluing" "rust bluing" "hot bluing" "niter bluing".

Otherwise there are many qualified gunsmiths that can look after the job for you.

I want a scope.

My Swede is tapped and I currently have a scope on it, however my bolt handle is already bent and was when I got the gun. There are several solutions out there for this from having a gunsmith bend it for you to doing your self

I don't know squat about Swedish Mausers but I get the feeling that hotter loads and scopes aren't their strong points.

I am currently running 47.5 grains of H4350 pushing a 95 grain VMAX at 3200 fps out of my swede with a 25" barrel with no signs of over pressure. That gives me 200+ yards and I use it for Coyote, I am happy with that. There is also very promising reports concerning RL-17 and the Swede so pressure -vs- velocity shouldn't be a issue when reloading. The general rule is that any of the slow burning powders work.

That being said I will bring up that other project that I mentioned earlier.

I love my Swede but have found it difficult to source aftermarket parts for it. I recently picked up a BRNO VZ24 (which is a large ring mauser) and I am building a 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser off that. Why? Well given the overwhelming number of 98's on the market, aftermarket parts are very easy to find. Also, that action can handle higher pressure loads so if I did decide to push it a little farther I could.

Could I expect very good accuracy provided I come up with a quality barrel?

I am getting excellent accuracy out of the military barrel that currently sits on my Swede but it will depend on how "used" yours is. Fortunately one of the aftermarket parts that is easy to find is a barrel.

So the long and the short of it is, it depends on what you want to use it for and how much time and money you want to soak into it.

I think any of the other Swede shooters here will agree, it is a great round and fun to shoot.

I hope this was somewhat helpful.

Steve
[]*[]
 
I'm in the process of building one. It's at a local gunsmiths right now getting drilled, tapped, bolt handled turned and a heavy barrel installed.
A friend has one with the original barrel (shortened to 20") and hand loading he is getting 3-1/2" groups at 400 yards..
I have the original bubba'd stock if you want it for the price of shipping.
Here is a before pic with the original stock.

mauser-1.jpg
 
If it still has the rear sight base - dont be scared to look at a B Square no drill and tap mount and a scout style scope - put this together for my daughter and we have killed three deer with it so far.

Stock was from Boyds - minor fitting required.

100_0399.jpg


100_0705-1.jpg
 
Geez you guys....

You make it kind of hard to drop this project.

Thanks very much for all the great info, links and photos. Great photo of your daughter with her deer Chas.

I can do blueing, I can weld and I can do bedding / stock finishing. So I think I can tackle most of this stuff myself.

Maybe I'll put it together and with Strikers generous offer of a stock (PM sent) I can see how it shoots and then decide from there. I guess I would have to D&T for a scope as well but that shouldn't be a big deal so long as bases are available. If it doesn't look good I can decide whether to change the barrel or sell it for what it is I suppose.

If this barrel seems to shoot ok, would it be possible to turn off the pipe wrench marks in a lathe without making things too thin? I guess I mean has anyone heard of one being turned down to remove the steps? That is pretty much what would be needed to remove those nasty marks.

Judging by the photos I think my barrel has been bobbed as well.

I hadn't thought of a Scout scope at all. That would be a possibility although I was thinking of a higher powered scope than most Scouts seem to be available in. I would also then have to buy a scout as opposed to using a scope I already have. Hmmmm. I think the sight base is there but I haven't had this thing out in about 15 years.

All info is welcome, please don't hold back and thanks again.
 
Well - Since the finish is already off the receiver, consider grinding off the charger "hump". this was a common sporter mod - allowing a Weaver base to be installed more easily.
 
I vote dump it on a sucker

...PM me, I'm a sucker! I love 6.5x55!

If you don't take my fantastic (albeit biased) advice, then show pics from now, during and, after! If it's bubba'd to start, you may doing a good deed. I've read through some posts where prime collectables were "bubba'd"...doesn't seem to make many friends in the milsurp section!

Enjoy!
 
I vote dump it on a sucker

...PM me, I'm a sucker! I love 6.5x55!

If you don't take my fantastic (albeit biased) advice, then show pics from now, during and, after! If it's bubba'd to start, you may doing a good deed. I've read through some posts where prime collectables were "bubba'd"...doesn't seem to make many friends in the milsurp section!

Enjoy!

Camster, if I do decide to dump it on a sucker, you'll be the first one I call....

Good idea, I'll dig it out and post up some photos.
 
Some Pics:

Here are a few pictures of what I'm dealing with.

IMG_6301.jpg


IMG_6303.jpg

Somebody trimmed down the trigger guard.

IMG_6304.jpg


IMG_6305.jpg

The pipe wrench marks aren't as bad as I remember....

IMG_6306.jpg

The muzzle. You can see where sight base was soldered on.

IMG_6307.jpg


IMG_6308.jpg


The underside of the receiver.

The barrel is only a bit over 18" long. I don't think that is long enough to do what I want to do with it.

It looks like I'll have to decide between getting another barrel and selling it.
 
Here are a few pictures of what I'm dealing with.



The barrel is only a bit over 18" long. I don't think that is long enough to do what I want to do with it.

It looks like I'll have to decide between getting another barrel and selling it.

I can't remember what the bore is like in mine. If it's good I'll give ya the barrel for that coffee you mentioned.. You'll have to wait as the gunsmith hasn't swapped them yet..
 
I can't remember what the bore is like in mine. If it's good I'll give ya the barrel for that coffee you mentioned.. You'll have to wait as the gunsmith hasn't swapped them yet..

Striker, you're a good man! Surely it would be worth a bottle of booze (if you're a drinking man, that is).

Things are looking up! Thanks.
 
Striker, you're a good man! Surely it would be worth a bottle of booze (if you're a drinking man, that is).

Things are looking up! Thanks.

No problem..I have no use for either..if a fellow GunNut can use them then it's all good.
Don't get to excited though..the barrel might not be good for anything but pounding in the ground and tying your dog to...
 
Striker you have the right attitude for sure!

Just in case..tradex has new m96 barrels in 6.5x55. No, I've never dealt with them but, many positive reports here in CGN. The price seems [to me] reasonable...

hXXp://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=view&gid=13&iid=147
...don't wanna be TOO helpful...he may not dump it on a sucker! lol It's just another option.

Newbie here and, not too sure about "live links"...change the first to XX's to tt's
 
My plan right now is to put it together and bed it into Striker's stock (thanks again) and try it out with the receiver sight.

If it shows potential I'll polish and blue it at least and maybe just keep it for a loaner. With the 18" barrel the velocity won't be what I want but it will be a nice compact rifle for my young nephews or whoever to use. *Edit* I'll just get something else in 6.5 more along the lines of what I'm looking for.

If it doesn't shoot well then that will be my excuse to get a longer barrel (or use Striker's) or sell it and get something else.

If I end up with a long barrel on it one way or the other then I will likely pick away at:
Blueing
Nice stock + bedding
Scope mounts
Bolt handle

Speaking of bolt handle, does mine need to be bent or not (see below):

IMG_6307.jpg


Also, can somebody give me a few pointers on how to identify the various Mausers. Is this an M38 or a 96 (or both)? I just don't know these things yet. It says Karl Gustav and 1907 on the receiver ring.

Thanks for all the input everybody.
 
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IIRC the M-96's should all have straight bolt handles. I believe some of these rifles had the barrels cut and the bolt bent at a later date (40's??) at the Swede armourer. Hope I'm remembering right.:p
 
I wouldn't be too concerned with the short barrel making the rifle ineffective. Mine had a shorted barrel, took several deer, and was accurate at 300 yards.
 
I wouldn't be too concerned with the short barrel making the rifle ineffective. Mine had a shorted barrel, took several deer, and was accurate at 300 yards.

I think the short barreled rifle would be great. Its just that the 6.5 that I envision for me happens to have a long barrel.

My toy, I get to pick, whether it makes much sense or not....
 
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