Swedish Military Ball

ilovepotatos said:
Alright guys...should I do it? Am I going to need to buy a special tool to pull the bullets, or would pliers do it? They're not lead so they shouldn't be that scratched...would they?
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Get a thick (1/4"+) piece of metal and drill a 5/16" hole through it. Chamfer the edges of the hole. Clamp the metal piece to a table. Insert a cartridge bullet first into the hole from below up to the bullet-neck juncture. Move the cartridge base back and forth until the neck is stretched sufficiently to remove the bullet with your fingers. Dump the powder into one container, the bullet into another, and the empty (but still live-primed) case into a third. Be nice and deactivate the primer before you take it to the salvage yard. Soaking in oil or water DOES NOT WORK. One way is to drill a 7/16" hole through a piece of 2x4, insert the cartridge down into it, and set off the primer with a hammer and punch.
 
Andy said:
Get a thick (1/4"+) piece of metal and drill a 5/16" hole through it. Chamfer the edges of the hole. Clamp the metal piece to a table. Insert a cartridge bullet first into the hole from below up to the bullet-neck juncture. Move the cartridge base back and forth until the neck is stretched sufficiently to remove the bullet with your fingers. Dump the powder into one container, the bullet into another, and the empty (but still live-primed) case into a third. Be nice and deactivate the primer before you take it to the salvage yard. Soaking in oil or water DOES NOT WORK. One way is to drill a 7/16" hole through a piece of 2x4, insert the cartridge down into it, and set off the primer with a hammer and punch.
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Hey Andy, won't this oblong the case mouths and make it tougher to reload the cases?

Alternately he could buy a nice $30 RCBS kinetic puller...?
 
Claven2 said:
Hey Andy, won't this oblong the case mouths and make it tougher to reload the cases?

Alternately he could buy a nice $30 RCBS kinetic puller...?
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Yes it will, but he indicated that he was going to scrap the brass. On the other hand, even if he did, most case necks will neck-size back quite nicely (using a 325 WSM F/L sizing die), and those that won't are the brittle ones you want to discard anyways.

A Kinetic Puller will "work", but my oh my will it be slow, and will break by round 200 or so. If you do use the Kinetic Puller (and I do if I have two or three rounds to pull), substitute a shellholder for the crappy aluminum ring thing held together by an elastic band - much, much better to use (should be part of the design IMO).
 
I still use the "ring thing" personally, but I'm on my 4th or 5th o-ring purchased in bulk from princess Auto - LOL.

Actually, most of all, I wish Lee would make an alternative to the RCBS Berdan decapper for less money. charging $40 for the RCBS tool is really highway robbery considering how simple and cheap to make it must be.
 
stencollector said:
No, but 1750 rounds on belts in their wooden/metal crates, + 10 tracer rounds for eachbelt weighs around 165 pounds. I know this because I loaded 12 of these crates into my Honda Accord.

Each box of 250 rounds in a carboard box on belts weighs about 20 pounds.
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That is 1980 lbs, plus you, gas and your kit. Did you get up those hills in Northern Ontario safely, or did the Accord blow a hose?
 
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