Switching Barrels on a bolt action

chrisward3

chrisward3

Regular
Rating - 100%
162   0   0
Location
Ottawa, ON
I have a Stiller Tac30 with a 308 krieger attached. Im interested in having a 260rem barrel made for it also, and wondering what equipment I would need to switch the barrels back and forth as required. I understand it would be more deliberate than with an AI AT rifle (and done in advance of a range day), but would I be introducing excessive wear on the action or barrel threads by switching them (say 2-3 times/year)? I know the AI AE Mk-- series can switch barrels with the proper tools, wondering if 700-style actions could be done in the same way.

Cheers,
Chris
 
I use a barrel vise, rear port action wrench, and a torque wrench. I torque to 50 ft/lbs. On actions with the sandwich recoil lug, like the Rem 700 style, it also makes things easier to have the lug pinned to the action as that reduces the fiddle factor to get the lug into the same spot in the lug pocket. I think Brownells sells a tool to make the alignment as well, but a pinned lug makes it easy. Change over typically takes less than 20 minutes. I doubt that a few changes a year is going to have significant effect on threads. Use anti-gall grease on threads.
 
chrisward3 said:
I have a Stiller Tac30 with a 308 krieger attached. Im interested in having a 260rem barrel made for it also, and wondering what equipment I would need to switch the barrels back and forth as required. I understand it would be more deliberate than with an AI AT rifle (and done in advance of a range day), but would I be introducing excessive wear on the action or barrel threads by switching them (say 2-3 times/year)? I know the AI AE Mk-- series can switch barrels with the proper tools, wondering if 700-style actions could be done in the same way.

Cheers,
Chris
Click to expand...

It can be done, the question is how much time and work you want to put in.
 
Your Stiller Tac30 isn't a quick change action. Requires a barrel vise, action wrench, headspace gauges and the knowledge to use 'em correctly. You'd be far better off buying another rifle.
However, like Gun Boy says, anything is possible, but it's how much money you want to spend, not so much the time and work.
 
Pinned lugs are handy but it is quite possible to shear the pin(s) off, ask me how I know. If your lug is bedded and it does not go back exactly the same you will have problems with that. Not possible without setting back the barrel but I have made recoil lugs that I epoxy to the bottom of the action and are squeezed by the action screw and pillar. Hold up just fine and does away with the big washer. They have draft on three sides so the come out of the bedding easily.
 
Can be easily set up for you. About as complicated as putting a bolt into a nut.

When your barrel is being installed, just discuss this with your gunsmith. There are some tweaks that can be done to make barrel swaps fast and easy. You will then just need a way to hold the barrel (strong table vise will do) and a rear entry wrench to twist off the action. All parts available.

I swap barrels on my FTR rifles all the time with minimal fuss and no wear. Headspace stays the same and you really don't need a gauge once all is set up properly for you. AND you do not need a lot of torque to tighten the barrel and receiver together. Firm snug is plenty.

When set up properly, the barreled action will fall back into the bedding and away you go.

If you really want a switch barrel gun, there will be a bit more money at time of install to set up but then you can play to your heart delight.

Don't bother if you think this is a good idea and might do it on a blue moon. Most shooters do not swap their barrels as much as they think they might so...

YMMV

Jerry
 
I have a switch barrel gun. I like to keep with the same stock, same trigger and same scope except the barrel. I have three barrels to switch, depending on the matches, practice and hunting.

You will need a good quality barrel vise and an action wrench. You don't need to buy another gun. It will cost you more.
 
I have Stiller Preditor which I think is the same action as the Tac 30 ... mine uses the standard Rem 700 rear port wrench which is readily available, as are barrel vices. I would ask my smith to do the install with no more than 50 ft/lbs torque, because if it is cranked on too tight, the rear port wrench may not be best for removing it later.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom