SxS screwdriver set?

sillymike

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Anybody can recommend a a screwdriver set thin enough to use on those silly-thin screws they use on nice double barrel shotgun?
- The thin bits on my Brownells kit are still too big :confused:

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Use feeler gauges to find the exact thickness of the slot then find a blade that is slightly less wide than the slot. Carefully grind the blade to the correct dimensions measuring with calipers, then test fit in the slot. If your still determined to proceed put a lot of downward force on the screwdriver and have at it. I made a set for my parker decades ago to snug up loose screws There is a Law that states "the prettier the gun the more likely the screwdriver will slip".
 
I had read that old school high end british guns (that came in the fitted cases, with the moulds for the bullets that were used to regulate the barrels) also came with the "turn screws" that had been used to put the rifle together. Would not even want to guess at what a replacement for a 37 1/2 tpi screw with an engraved head that was clocked within an action, might cost. I think cost of "a screw" would make multiple screwdriver tips look very cheap... And makes the desire to want to rotate that screw very "serious"...
 
It is common to simply grind a screwdriver to fit each screw... save them and grind to fit the next if needed.
 
It is common to simply grind a screwdriver to fit each screw... save them and grind to fit the next if needed.

That's what I ended up doing.
I "sacrificed" on of my Brownells wide "thin" bit, and used to Makita for the narrower screws.
All thing considered, it wasn't that bad. Gring-polish some... test... grind polish some more... test... repeat for the different screw width...
- Got wondering if I ought to anneal/temper them... But figure, I'd rather have something bend while applying force than "snap".


In case any one else is interested, Makita Slotted bits are a good starting point. As their flat sides line up with the bit.

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On the up-side, I didn't mare anything

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On the down side, couldn't figure out how to remove the action from the stock (I thought it was supposed to be able to just pull it out) to see why one of the firing pin doesn't retract when cocked... How well. I don't often get to wrench on boxlock. That was a fun way to spend a day in the garage.

- Project for this week, talk to someone familiar with Russian boxlock... Or at least try to find a part diagram :)
 
50 years ago I bought various sizes of Craftsman screw drivers and ground them to fit as required. They can be re heat treated if you 'burn' them grinding... I am still using them today... you don't always 'need' large sets of bits... I have some bits but the old drivers are my mainstay.
 
Here's some pictures of the approximate order screws need to be removed from a Parker which is similar to other sxs of its type
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As you can see the trigger guard, floorplate, top lever screw, and some parts and pin need to be removed to get the butt stock off. Some have a simple bolt going through the butt stock but that seems less common.
I have the full instructions for disassembling a Parker if you think it would help.
 
Mac wood handled screw drivers I bought about 30 yrs ago are very good, too thick for english guns. I have sears drivers that are about 50-55 yrs old , still good.
I have a set of some no name bits in a case with a handle , and they are very good quality. Some where I have seen a set made for english guns, Brownell maybe?
 
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