T3x 308 Muzzle Break, Yes or No?

Andrewstclair said:
Lol been called worse.
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Hah!

Other than increased noise and blast felt by you and others you are shooting around, that's it then. They're loud and concussive.

Personally worry more about how well I am shooting than what anyone thinks. That's all that matters.
 
It is kind of fun shooting with one. I tried a side port one on my CTR in 6.5CM. Completely unnecessary, but it made the recoil feel like nothing and made spotting hits in the scope easy. I knew I was never going to hunt with it on (noise, etc) so got rid of it after one session. It changed POI over 4" at 100. They're also a pain to clean. I can see the need on some big cartridges but for what I shoot I have no use for them.
 
David Jennings offered his own version of a muzzle brake.
He angled the brake ports slightly forward.
I forget the degrees, maybe 30*?
It sure helps with aiming the blast effect away from the shooting and less noisey.
The old 308 NM recoils like it's little brother making it a pleasure to shoot.
But I double up on the ear protection when shooting at the range.
 
I do not like muzzle brakes, and try to avoid them, if practical.

I shoot everything up to and including my 308 Norma Magnum
without a brake.

However, my 8mm Rem Mag does wear a brake because the
recoil without it is just above my tolerance level at the bench.
With the brake, recoil is at the 270/280 level, quite easy to take.

I have never felt the 308 was a particularly hard recoiling round,
even in my model 600 Remington, the "kick" was quite mild IMHO.

If I were purchasing that Tikka, I would pass on the brake. Dave.
 
Eagleye said:
I do not like muzzle brakes, and try to avoid them, if practical.

I shoot everything up to and including my 308 Norma Magnum
without a brake.

However, my 8mm Rem Mag does wear a brake because the
recoil without it is just above my tolerance level at the bench.
With the brake, recoil is at the 270/280 level, quite easy to take.

I have never felt the 308 was a particularly hard recoiling round,
even in my model 600 Remington, the "kick" was quite mild IMHO.

If I were purchasing that Tikka, I would pass on the brake. Dave.
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At what degree of loss of accuracy do you start to think of putting a brake on something, Dave? Is there a certain benchmark you seek to achieve from offhand or field positions that once you can't anymore, that's too much? Or is it just general comfort?

Basically, what is shooting "good enough" without it?
 
Joel said:
At what degree of loss of accuracy do you start to think of putting a brake on something, Dave? Is there a certain benchmark you seek to achieve from offhand or field positions that once you can't anymore, that's too much? Or is it just general comfort?

Basically, what is shooting "good enough" without it?
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Joel. As most on here are aware, I try to get in a fair amount of shooting practice [both from the bench and in field positions]
I judge my recoil tolerance primarily from my bench shooting, since field positions, particularly when game is present, tend to
help one ignore recoil, or at least not notice it as much.

I own accurate rifles, and I have a pretty good idea what to expect from them on the bench. If I see groups open a bit with a
known, accurate load I take that as indication that the recoil is a bit on the stiff side, and i am reacting to that by some unconscious
action that is affecting my shooting.

My 8mm Mag is a good example. This is a custom build that is .5 moa capable with 2 loads that I use. If I shoot it without the brake,
groups will start to open up after 3 or 4 groups. With brake attached, the group sizes remain very consistent, often 3 shots will
touch at 100M and 5 will be a ragged hole, group after group.

I noticed a similar phenomenon with a 340 Weatherby Mag I owned, so it is not a stand alone happening. As I age, I notice I
like heavy recoil less and less. :) Dave
 
No brakes for me, the noise bothers me a lot more than recoil. The first centre fire I had and shot was a 30 06 and I was used to it, I remember walking up to a covered area at a range and a fellow was shooting a braked 300 wm I think, even from a distance it made me jump. If I was to develop a flinch I think it would be from noise rather than recoil. But each to his own.
 
Eagleye said:
Joel. As most on here are aware, I try to get in a fair amount of shooting practice [both from the bench and in field positions]
I judge my recoil tolerance primarily from my bench shooting, since field positions, particularly when game is present, tend to
help one ignore recoil, or at least not notice it as much.

I own accurate rifles, and I have a pretty good idea what to expect from them on the bench. If I see groups open a bit with a
known, accurate load I take that as indication that the recoil is a bit on the stiff side, and i am reacting to that by some unconscious
action that is affecting my shooting.

My 8mm Mag is a good example. This is a custom build that is .5 moa capable with 2 loads that I use. If I shoot it without the brake,
groups will start to open up after 3 or 4 groups. With brake attached, the group sizes remain very consistent, often 3 shots will
touch at 100M and 5 will be a ragged hole, group after group.

I noticed a similar phenomenon with a 340 Weatherby Mag I owned, so it is not a stand alone happening. As I age, I notice I
like heavy recoil less and less. :) Dave
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Ah, I see!

You do spent a lot of time behind a rifle, alright :)

We go about that one differently, Dave. Unless its testing/developing a load or making sure a rifle is zeroed, I'm almost never at the bench. But if I am not able to hold and shoot as well from offhand or field positions as I can with say a 223, I don't really like it lol. Different rifles will do that to different degrees.
 
Everyone should be wearing hearing protection, whether you are shooting with or without a brake. That's if you value you're hearing at all.

A muzzle brake will reduce the recoil to the shooter, which in turn will help the shooter be more precise (recoil exploits any flaws a shooter has, effecting precision). This however comes at the cost of increased concussion to the shooter (and especially those immediately to your sides). Whether the increased concussion is worth it depends on each individual shooter and their needs.

When it comes to hunting, most hunters have awful shooting fundamentals, and heavy cartridges in lightweight rifles really exploits. A muzzle brake certainly helps. A suppressor is best, IMO.
 
kamlooky said:
David Jennings offered his own version of a muzzle brake.
He angled the brake ports slightly forward.
I forget the degrees, maybe 30*?
It sure helps with aiming the blast effect away from the shooting and less noisey.
The old 308 NM recoils like it's little brother making it a pleasure to shoot.
But I double up on the ear protection when shooting at the range.
Click to expand...

David Gentry
 
Unless you only weight 90 pounds and have a gimpy shoulder, you will not have any problem at all handling the almost non-existent recoil of a 308win. Sometimes there's an accuracy advantage for shooters who struggle with trigger and upper-body control, but even that is way overstated. For a hunting rifle, a brake is a bad idea because hunters don't wear earplugs in the bush (for obvious reasons).

All the brake is going to do is look silly and make you deaf.

My opinion, for what it's worth.
 
Canuck65 said:
Unless you only weight 90 pounds and have a gimpy shoulder, you will not have any problem at all handling the almost non-existent recoil of a 308win. Sometimes there's an accuracy advantage for shooters who struggle with trigger and upper-body control, but even that is way overstated. For a hunting rifle, a brake is a bad idea because hunters don't wear earplugs in the bush (for obvious reasons).

All the brake is going to do is look silly and make you deaf.

My opinion, for what it's worth.
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If there was a clay or similar size target at 100 yards and you were betting $100 on being able to break it offhand or from a hasty non rested positio, what would you pick? What about breaking position and doing it again?

A 223, or a 6.3 lb 308 or bigger?

Cause its a pretty easy shot with a 223 and I've seen a lot of struggling with bigger lol.
 
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