T97 trigger pull UPDATE on page 2

droodles said:
Input?
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Spring steel of some kind. The streetsweepers sometimes leave their bristles on the roads, and they're almost the same dimensions of that T97 trigger bar if I recall correctly. But one end would require some welding of cut pieces to widen the trigger end. If you had 1/64" accuracy with hand tools, and dremeled the cut portions.. and be able to start over as often as you wanted.. That would suck but you'd eventually make it work.

Edit: if you had to, you could hammer flat the straight portion of a coathanger or even a brass rod, and trim it to dimensions.
 
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I would say go with #1. It's a lot easier to order a second trigger bar from you IF the first one wears out. Than it is to find replacement parts for these rifles. Right now. That may change in the future. If it's made of high grade aluminum it could very well last a very long time. Probably outlast most shooters.
I was thinking a steel/stainless steel insert where it makes contact with steel parts would increase it's lifespan however it would probably drive the cost through the roof.

Either way I'm down. I'm also willing to purchase one/two or a prototype and put some rounds on it and give you feedback/review.
 
Lobster_pot said:
I would say go with #1. It's a lot easier to order a second trigger bar from you IF the first one wears out. Than it is to find replacement parts for these rifles. Right now. That may change in the future. If it's made of high grade aluminum it could very well last a very long time. Probably outlast most shooters.
I was thinking a steel/stainless steel insert where it makes contact with steel parts would increase it's lifespan however it would probably drive the cost through the roof.

Either way I'm down. I'm also willing to purchase one/two or a prototype and put some rounds on it and give you feedback/review.
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I would agree. Replacing a bar that we could order from a fellow CGN user is easier than replacing a trigger or seer (or whatever) that would have to come from China. And each of us would still have our original bars in the meantime.

And if necessary, after a year or so, if you do decide to switch it up and make a harder bar (due to wear on the bar) you could revisit then - do a v2.0 or whatnot.
 
Big update after lots of work!

Part 1:

New rod design. While trying some rough assembly we found that it was possible to bend the bar at the back slot, opening the groove up if disassembled incorrectly and very aggressively. So we beefed it up! We will also have to write up how to correctly assemble/disassemble it with these arms. Just a couple things to make sure you are careful.

WP_20140707_17_37_11_Raw.jpg


Our original short bar on the top and two new v2 bars on the bottom.


Part 2:

Added a new "half size". The second size sits in the middle of the super short and the picture here has 4 lines on it (and a matching trigger line) to show trigger positions for different bars on Noflo's T97.

WP_20140707_17_38_13_Raw.jpg


From left to right.
Line 1 - Resting position
Line 2 - Trigger pull for shortest bar (~6mm)
Line 3 - Trigger pull for medium bar (~10.5mm)
Line 4 - Trigger pull for original bar (~15mm)

Part 3: My buddy came through on the laser. No other shop around could do it. Even he doubted. I haven't taken ownership of them yet to test quality but he has 5 mild steel bars for me in the shortest length if anyone really wants them in steel.

V__D642.jpg


Part 4: I've managed to rework my code well enough that I can start to create lots of these in a reasonable time frame.

Let me know what you guys think! I'll be posting in the EE as soon as I have a bunch put together.
 
Cool.
droodles said:
Big update after lots of work!

Part 1:

New rod design. While trying some rough assembly we found that it was possible to bend the bar at the back slot, opening the groove up if disassembled incorrectly and very aggressively. So we beefed it up! We will also have to write up how to correctly assemble/disassemble it with these arms. Just a couple things to make sure you are careful.

WP_20140707_17_37_11_Raw.jpg


Our original short bar on the top and two new v2 bars on the bottom.


Part 2:

Added a new "half size". The second size sits in the middle of the super short and the picture here has 4 lines on it (and a matching trigger line) to show trigger positions for different bars on Noflo's T97.

WP_20140707_17_38_13_Raw.jpg


From left to right.
Line 1 - Resting position
Line 2 - Trigger pull for shortest bar (~6mm)
Line 3 - Trigger pull for medium bar (~10.5mm)
Line 4 - Trigger pull for original bar (~15mm)

Part 3: My buddy came through on the laser. No other shop around could do it. Even he doubted. I haven't taken ownership of them yet to test quality but he has 5 mild steel bars for me in the shortest length if anyone really wants them in steel.

V__D642.jpg


Part 4: I've managed to rework my code well enough that I can start to create lots of these in a reasonable time frame.

Let me know what you guys think! I'll be posting in the EE as soon as I have a bunch put together.
Click to expand...
 
Deckard said:
Is this kind of rod possible? It would allow a crafty person to design and install a grip safety.
Click to expand...

That's a VERY cool idea. I see no reason why that couldn't be added in. I'll have to take apart the gun and have a look to see what kind of space I have to work with. Maybe in the next version.

Do you have a specific grip safety kit in mind? Otherwise that crafty guy would have to make one himself.
 
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I was thinking perhaps a VZ-58 ambi kit, but a crossbolt system would be fairly simple to make. Push the button with thumb to GO and press other direction for NO GO.
 
My latest idea: An Uzi type safety. Push forward to GO. Pull back to NO GO. This is the easiest to craft from scratch. Clearly the projection goes down behind this sort of assembly.

T97safetyDeckard_zpsfdd4ff0d.jpg
 
Here's the last update.

CGN sent me a message and basically canned this project on these forums. I have apparently been breaking the forum rules by soliciting a for profit product without a business membership. As such, I am required to buy a $1000 dealer membership to continue to talk about it at all.

In accordance with their wishes, I will no longer be communicating about this project on CGN as the project was a non-profit venture and I am not willing to put in $1000 of my own money so everyone else can have them at cost. Nor am I willing to raise the price to $150 per piece to simply break even financially.

Sorry everyone, but rules are rules.
 
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