Tactical 1911 w/ Mini Red Dot

DanTrey

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Hey CGN community,

I just wanted to share a build I've been working for the past few months. I assume this is an appropriate page to share this on, if not, could someone please direct me to a correct one or perhaps move it.

For a while I was looking build a very "modern tactical 1911" if you will. I've seen many Glock and M&P's built very nicely with some awesome gear on it, but I didn't see that kind of work for the classic 1911. So I thought I'd build a cool 1911. Forgive me, as this is not a very planned out post, I'll work on my articulation as I progress.

The firearm is a Kimber Custom 2 1911 TLE/RL2. Currently there is a Docter Optic 7 MOA Red Dot mounted on the Kimber slide which is machined and cut so I can get the Doc Op Red Dot mounted very low on the slide.

Unfortunately, the cost of getting a red dot machined and fitted on the slide means I lose my rear sight. So I'm working on a solution to mount an "old tab style" 1911 rear iron sight either in front of behind the red dot. (Not a priority at the moment.....James Yeager would not approve)

On the rail system, I have a 500 Lumens Surefire X300 Ultra mounted. Great working weapon light, solid piece as like any Surefire product.

As if it isn't heavy enough (its like 5 pounds with a loaded Chip McCormick Power Plus 10 round magazine), there are a few more things to come. I've got a Kimber Custom Shop Magazine Well, that cheap plastic mainspring housing serves it purpose but, it isn't awesome enough haha. Not to mention a metal 20 lines per inch checkering will provide more traction compared to its plastic alternative.

I've be switching out some of the exterior mechanical parts, such as getting an ambidextrous thumb safety and a grip safety with serrations or texturing (I believe Kimber calls it the tactical bump).

I'll probably machine and cut for more aggressive serrations for added grip to the slide. (not that 1911's malfunction or anything....... but it does add to the aggressive look)

I may be considering a Titanium Nitride Coating (TiN) on the Barrel. The extremely hard ceramic material does boost endurance and reliability...or maybe its the gold finish...its probably that.

I doubt I'll be changing anything other than that, I internals work as it does, 1911 triggers don't need work, as they break like glass and move straight and back anyhow.

This is a work in progress, things might change...usually pretty quickly...because I'm impulsive and have no regard for my pension just kidding.

Specs are:
Kimber Custom II Model 1911 TLE/RL II w/Tac Rail
Docter Optic 7 MOA red dot
Surefire X300 Ultra
Magpul 1911 Grips
Chip McCormick Power+ Magazine
More stuff on the way :D











 
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It's the first "tactical" built I've seen with a red dot on it (I've seen them on just about every race-gun though).

Most I've seen is the flashlight and maybe a suppressor if you're in the states......tan paint/cerakote if you're feeling extra tactical.

Anyway, nice looking 1911, always wanted a Kimber :)
 
You guys are making it blush haha. Thanks
Got it to the range today. Got it zeroed in on a bench. It is definitely nice to not have to front sight focus. Puting the red dot on the target and squeezing the trigger, is a lot easier and a lot less work than the traditional "equal height equal light" method.
Anyway, most importantly, it didn't blow up in my face first round.
 
How much did the milling cost/ where did you get the slide milling done?

I've toyed with the idea of red dot sights on my 1911 for a while now, but never did it because the mounts looked stupid and cobbled together. The milling looks awesome though, nice and low Like it came from the factory like that.
 
I had the milling done at DocterUSA. A company in Florida. The process takes about a 3-4 weeks, shipping there, getting the work done, then the shipping back. Mine took a little longer, but its not really that big a deal. The cost of the work is $250 and getting the optic bulletproofed cost $200. So the total cost is $450 if you have the optic and are sending it in with the slide.

To buy a slide ready optic is about $430 and again $200 for the milling work. $630 total for that.

If you want to know more. Please feel free to message me.


How much did the milling cost/ where did you get the slide milling done?

I've toyed with the idea of red dot sights on my 1911 for a while now, but never did it because the mounts looked stupid and cobbled together. The milling looks awesome though, nice and low Like it came from the factory like that.
 
The neat small size of the red dot makes this build work for my tastes. And I'm normally one that hates red dots on handguns.

I'd suggest you "finish the job" though and remove the front sight blade and put in a filler. Or cut off the blade and smoothen then finish the base as a filler to match the rest of the finish. All the front blade is going to do is confuse the sight picture by wanting to make you put the dot on the blade when it's not needed.

The whole point of the red dot is to allow a wider range of sighting with the shot still aimed as long as you can see the dot and put it on the target while the dot is anywhere in the frame. That makes the front blade a useless protuberance.
 
Nice build.

I'd remove the front sight entirely, and just have a custom insert made that you can tap into the dovetail to fill the spot where the sight was.
 
I had the milling done at DocterUSA. A company in Florida. The process takes about a 3-4 weeks, shipping there, getting the work done, then the shipping back. Mine took a little longer, but its not really that big a deal. The cost of the work is $250 and getting the optic bulletproofed cost $200. So the total cost is $450 if you have the optic and are sending it in with the slide.

To buy a slide ready optic is about $430 and again $200 for the milling work. $630 total for that.

If you want to know more. Please feel free to message me.

What exactly does "getting the optic bulletproofed" entail??

And I disagree with the front sight removal, having it there helps to orient you to the dot more quickly as well as allowing the frame of the RDS to act like a big ghost ring for close to medium range shots if your battery happens to $h!t the bed (which will happen eventually if you shoot enough).

WRT the holster, most makers will cut the front of the holster in front of the ejection port which is lots of clearance...
 
Dean at DocterUSA can better answer that question.

But here is a link to answer you question regarding what "bullet proofing" is: http://docterusa.com/docter-red-dot-sight-bulletproofing/

What exactly does "getting the optic bulletproofed" entail??

And I disagree with the front sight removal, having it there helps to orient you to the dot more quickly as well as allowing the frame of the RDS to act like a big ghost ring for close to medium range shots if your battery happens to $h!t the bed (which will happen eventually if you shoot enough).

WRT the holster, most makers will cut the front of the holster in front of the ejection port which is lots of clearance...
 
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