Take that Vault! Your stinky barrel thread Keltec warranty rules be damned!
- Thread starter Claven2
- Start date
Why would it need cooling vents? 30 round mag dumps in the future of the RFB?
I personally like the fake can look and would love to see something similar offered retail for a reasonable price. That is by far the best use of the barrel thread on an RFB i've seen so far.
Keep up the good work
I personally like the fake can look and would love to see something similar offered retail for a reasonable price. That is by far the best use of the barrel thread on an RFB i've seen so far.
Keep up the good work
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I'm not certain I understand 100% what you have done.
Is this entire part ..... inside the main tube and then held in place by the cone which is threaded into the main tube from the front?
If so you don't need to use anywhere near that amount of wall thickness. Silencers use a .065" wall thickness and they contain a lot more heat and pressure than your device ever will.
That brass fitting is going to need to be VERY tight to avoid any movement during firing. Any movement or vibration at all is going to screw with the accuracy. I'd make sure that the brass bushing is butted up against the end of the crown for maximum tightness.
If you have the equipment, flutes inside the cone will help to kill flash.
Is this entire part ..... inside the main tube and then held in place by the cone which is threaded into the main tube from the front?
If so you don't need to use anywhere near that amount of wall thickness. Silencers use a .065" wall thickness and they contain a lot more heat and pressure than your device ever will.
That brass fitting is going to need to be VERY tight to avoid any movement during firing. Any movement or vibration at all is going to screw with the accuracy. I'd make sure that the brass bushing is butted up against the end of the crown for maximum tightness.
If you have the equipment, flutes inside the cone will help to kill flash.
So much fail in this statement I can't believe that you are allowed to posses firearms.
Dlask recieved a contract from Vault in conjunction with KelTec to have some threaded barrels into the country. Unfortunatly to break the welds and re-trace the threads plus supply a new muzzle deviece would make it cost prohibitave. Hence why you don't hear about these models any more. Also many companies including ARMS East do this proceedure to get there rifles out of the states. Take for example the new Armilite AR's that Wolverine just braught in. They come with welded on muzzle brakes. Break the weld and put what ever you want on it cause it is already threaded. KelTec whole appeal is a low cost, low wieght, mid quiality rifle company. Anyone who says otherwise should just wake up to reality. Also please research before you post bogus infromation.
I'm not certain I understand 100% what you have done.
Is this entire part ..... inside the main tube and then held in place by the cone which is threaded into the main tube from the front?
If so you don't need to use anywhere near that amount of wall thickness. Silencers use a .065" wall thickness and they contain a lot more heat and pressure than your device ever will.
That brass fitting is going to need to be VERY tight to avoid any movement during firing. Any movement or vibration at all is going to screw with the accuracy. I'd make sure that the brass bushing is butted up against the end of the crown for maximum tightness.
If you have the equipment, flutes inside the cone will help to kill flash.
Hi Suputin:
I realize the wall thickness is excessive, but this was a proof-of-concept prototype and was entirely machined on manual machines using only the materials I had on-hand.
The cone assembly acts as a means of affixing the female threads and sealing face for the cone assembly and as a point to solder in the brass bushing. The whole thing is then press-fit into a precisely machined opening on the front of the DOM tubing, it stops on a machined-in shoulder. Then the female part of the cone assembly is spot welded into the tube in 4 locations around the circumference. The excess material on the welds were removed when I finish-machined the tube (also reducing the wall thickness to save weight). The cone itself stays in because it hard-seats on the shoulder inside the female receptacle. It's tight and takes a special tool to break the friction and remove it, hence the slots in the cone face.
The brass busing has a shoulder on it that seats hard against the muzzle and the ID of the busing is zero-clearance to the OD of the barrel, so there's not much chance of movement.
Is this the perfect design? No. But it's a credible start IMHO. Not sure if I will make any more though.
I did open up the bore of the cone a little more though to ensure I don't accidentally suppress any sound. Wouldn't want to go to jail!!!
LOL - I was talking to another gun builder yesterday about this and we came to the conclusion that I would have to charge $800 each for these if they were made on manual machines form the materials I chose. For example, all the threads are manually cut on a toolroom lathe. Many of the finishes are hand-dressed for tolerance. Etc...
Not economically going to happen on the machines I have.
That being said, if I get bored of this one, maybe you can pick it up in the EE for a lot less than $800!
Not economically going to happen on the machines I have.
That being said, if I get bored of this one, maybe you can pick it up in the EE for a lot less than $800!
It could be made all one piece or at most 2 pieces. You could make the main tube or use a dia to start with suitable for the final product or very close with 2 holes theaded (#8x24) inline 1/8 from each end (for rubber tipped set screws later). Then make the muzzle flash/barrel device out of aluminum to a final diameter .0015 less than the inside of main tube. Then heat and press the pieces into the main tube and secure with the rubber tipped set screws.
I have put a lot of thought into this since I got my RFB. I don't have access to the mill and lathe I used too or I would have done it already.
What angle you used inside the flash suppressor area 40*?
I have put a lot of thought into this since I got my RFB. I don't have access to the mill and lathe I used too or I would have done it already.
What angle you used inside the flash suppressor area 40*?
IIRC the Noveski uses a 15 deg half angle (30 deg cone)
DOM tubing is very strong. What I'd do is make all the bits to slip fit together then using a couple or three jigs and/or spacers, bolt everything together on a piece of ready rod and plug weld the muzzle piece in place and then tig weld the ends on. After that you can thread the rear piece to fit the rifle to ensure it is concentric and straight with the tube. This is essentially how we make cans and it works to keep everything straight enough to work with a roughly .050" over caliber size bore.
Using this method and a spacerless monocore baffle stack, I have a 556 can that weighs less than a pound all in.
Just reduced the tail length on the cone to allow a .900" gap to lower the back pressure and potential for any gas cutting at the muzzle. Getting closer to being able to test fire after some advice has rolled in from a few forum gurus - you know who you are - thanks!
