Taking care of my wood
- Thread starter Underthegun
- Start date
I use Conservator's Wax, one of only two microcrystalline waxes that I am aware of. You can also apply it to the metal as well. This is what the Cody firearms museum uses, except theirs is Renaissance Wax. Some fellows use Snake Oil, but I have little experience with that.
- Location
- Southern Vancouver Island
Depends on the finish you desire on said wood. Walnut, being somewhat porous will suck up a fair bit
of oil based finish such as linseed, tung oil or Tru Oil. Waxes will fill in the pores better and are easier
to re-apply. If you subject your gun to the weather a fair bit, then a good sealing with waxed based
finish both inside the stock & out will serve you well.
I've always had good results with Tru Oil and use it because I like the shine & durability of the stuff.
Of course, one can dull the shine with 4-0 steel wool or fine Scotch Brite pads.
of oil based finish such as linseed, tung oil or Tru Oil. Waxes will fill in the pores better and are easier
to re-apply. If you subject your gun to the weather a fair bit, then a good sealing with waxed based
finish both inside the stock & out will serve you well.
I've always had good results with Tru Oil and use it because I like the shine & durability of the stuff.
Of course, one can dull the shine with 4-0 steel wool or fine Scotch Brite pads.
- Location
- Brant County, Ontario
Depends on the finish you desire on said wood. Walnut, being somewhat porous will suck up a fair bit
of oil based finish such as linseed, tung oil or Tru Oil. Waxes will fill in the pores better and are easier
to re-apply. If you subject your gun to the weather a fair bit, then a good sealing with waxed based
finish both inside the stock & out will serve you well.
I've always had good results with Tru Oil and use it because I like the shine & durability of the stuff.
Of course, one can dull the shine with 4-0 steel wool or fine Scotch Brite pads.
Can you use the wax over a tung oiled stock?
Yes, oils get absorbed by the wood, and can help preserve it. Wax helps as well, but sits "on top" of the wood. Both together provide good protection, but without a sealant on top of the oil and below the wax, still easy enough to damage with chemicals like salt in your hands. We're talking very long term here. For most use cases, oil+wax is fine! and what I am planning on using for a new Boyd's stock.
Yes you can apply the wax over a Tung Oiled stock, but wait about a month for the oil to dry up well before applying for best results. Natural Tung oil with zero additives will dry it just takes longer. As stated the oil will be "in" the wood, the wax will be on the surface.
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- Location
- Brant County, Ontario
Thanks gents, I have done two stocks in tung oil and they both turned out pretty good and have a third in the middle of it now. How ever one of them I took hunting this year and noticed after a long day in the rain water it started to soak in a bit. Wasn't sure if the wax on it was a good idea or not.
By the way sorry for the thread derailment.
This. From a previous post I wrote in answer to a similar question:
Here is the before picture - I hadn't applied the Schaftol since the last hunting season as the rifle had been mostly in the safe except for shooting in the summer:
and wet with the product (30 seconds after I applied it):
I've been using Howards Feed and Wax for over 20 years on my guns and house hold furniture. It is a combination of oil, wax and other products. After I apply it on a oil finished stock the oil and wax penetrates the wood to protect it and enhances the grain and wood colour.
- Location
- AB foothills
I started using Renaissance Wax not long ago but wish I had had found it sooner. I will be ordering more soon and will continue to use it on my wood/blued firearms for a long time to come.
