Tanfoglio or CZ Trigger Tune-Up
- Thread starter Ganderite
- Start date
Should be fairly easy DIY. I had a brief encounter with Tanfos, then went back to CZ.
Edit: looked up the old parts list for a trigger job - Patriot Defense interruptor, Titan Hammer, hammer strut and pins. Xtreme sear. Springs.
Tanfos need quite a bit of internal polishing to make the action really smooth.
forums.brianenos.com/topic/234968-the-tanfoglio-bible/
Edit: looked up the old parts list for a trigger job - Patriot Defense interruptor, Titan Hammer, hammer strut and pins. Xtreme sear. Springs.
Tanfos need quite a bit of internal polishing to make the action really smooth.
forums.brianenos.com/topic/234968-the-tanfoglio-bible/
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I don't mind polishing Norico 1911 trigger parts. The pistol is easy to take apart. Replacement parts are cheap and plentiful if needed. But this pistol is more lake a clock than a gun, given my very limited ability. I think is deserves a pro to do the job. Hence my question.
He was killed.
Easier than a 1911? OK, that sounds like something I should look into myself.
I think so, and while I've not worked on a 1911 in 16+ years I see the stupid things all the time lol, and see people futzing with them. CZs are head to mess up. Springs are the single easiest and best thing you can change and experience a massive improvement from. I highly recommend 9lb hammer springs, super light firing pin spring, and 9lb recoil for a Shadow 2, 11lb recoil for a Shadow. You can also do trigger return spring and sear spring to a lighter set if you want. Replacing the trigger pin with a Cajun Gun Works style (just about everyone makes a copy now) is also a good idea. After that, polishing the bits that rub will bring you the next set of returns. Check out CZ Fangrrl on YouTube for some really good videos on doing some really nice polish work
My pistol is a Tang Match Pro. It has a poly frame. Does that change anything about the ease of working on it?
My only complaint is a gritty, creepy trigger. New springs won't change that.
Tanfos are similar but not identical to CZ. My steel frame unit was fairly easy to work on, no experience with poly.
This gritty feeling in Tanfos usually comes from a couple of parts: the trigger bar guide (see pic here: ww w.ipscstore.com/en/tanfoglio/10353-tanfoglio-trigger-bar-guide.html ) and the trigger bar itself.
Trigger bar guide - you can literally feel the grit as you compress it by hand. Disassemble and polish its head and strut leg (the original part is ribbed).
Trigger bar - back/top surfaces where it touches the sear cage and disconnector should also be polished - this procedure is identical to CZ.
Trigger creep is likely due to the amount of sear-hammer engagement. A race hammer should fix that.
Replace the disconnector (Tanfo people call it interruptor) to minimize/remove SA pre-travel. It is better to upgrade disco, hammer, and sear at the same time - the big question is whether the go fast parts designed for steel Tanfos will fit a polymer frame.
