Good point about the proper size drill bits. The smaller the screw and finer the thread pitch the more important this is. And 6-48 and even 8-40 qualify on both aspects. A set of number drills is a must when working at these sizes.
Bearhunter, up to now I've always done the same thing to start the taps as you describe. I keep trying to remember to find some tap handles that have a pilot stub that can ride in in the chuck jaws slightly loose so I can start and run the taps in under centering guidance from the chuck. But then I see a squirrel run by and the thought goes right down the flusher. But one day......
I picked up a couple of sets of tap handles over the years from pawn shops and garage sales. A set of German made pre WWII Gedore handles and some other tool holders are my favorites. Another set was made by Starrett out of the UK in the early fifties came with two small handles. I just pulled the cross bar, which was held in place by a spring/ball detent to allow movement of the handle in tight locations and luckily it fits nicely, albeit very close, into my drill press chuck. Both of these sets are very good and hold the square drive section very tightly and true. If I am being particularly anal I have a micro precision chuck to throw onto the drill press and it will hold the smallest number drills made. I found that chuck in a pawn shop about ten years ago for $20. I don't need it often but when I do it is worth ten times what I paid for it. Being able to use it to drill very small pilot holes has saved me a lot of trouble. The one thing that is very difficult to find is a centering drill or pilot drill that is small enough for the small holes used for scope mounts.
I have said the hell with it on occasion and only for my personal rifles to utilize larger/coarser screws such as 8x32 and 3/32x48. These screw sizes are much more practical but are definitely not standard for firearms and would be extremely confusing for most folks to replace.
