target loads for a 44 revolver...

ruger22

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Looking for advice on fun to shoot, target loads for a 44 revolver...
I have the books so do not need load data.

I am starting out by buying new brass.
1) Should I go 44 sp or 44 mag?

2) Is starline worth it?

3) Does starline really last longer, that say winchester?

4) Where to buy in western canada?
 
Stick to 44mag brass. You wont get that residue ring or buildup you would if u were to use the shorter 44Spl cases. As far as brass is concerned, Winchester is as good as you're gonna get. Starline is good, but I dont think you'll get any more life out of it that you would any other unless you're loading very hot loads and even then its doubtful. If you're buying virgin brass, WSL carries it as do most quality shops but be prepared as its not cheap. Loaded properly it will last u a long time. Loaded improperly, brass will be the least of your problems. If your are loading full power loads with a powder like H110, which is lots of thunder and lightning and gives your wrist a workout, dont deviate from the manufacturers suggestions as H110 does not take kindly to underpowered loads and can prove disasterous. There are lots of good full power loads with numerous powders which are open to experimentation. Remember, you can use 44Spl data in 44Mag cases is you want mild target loads for extended use. 44Mag is a fun cartridge and you can really make it bark without going to the upper end of the spectrum if you wish.
Good luck:)
dB
 
I'd also say get magnum cases... you can use .44SPL loads in it. what I do is I seat the bullet in the magnum case to OAL specs of .44spl (you won't be able to do it with most ligher bullets though.

I use Win. brass btw must've loaded them 10 times now they they still look fine.
 
Yep. Go with .44 mag cases and load with .44 Special cast bullet data. It's the same as loading .357 mag brass to .38 Special velocities.
 
I'd also say get magnum cases... you can use .44SPL loads in it. what I do is I seat the bullet in the magnum case to OAL specs of .44spl (you won't be able to do it with most ligher bullets though.

I use Win. brass btw must've loaded them 10 times now they they still look
fine.


So then the key when loading 44 mag brass to 44 sp levels is seat the bullet
the same depth as if 44 sp brass?

Could any body explain the theory that by loading below min charges the pressure can rise. Hence the risk.

I have heard it said that what is required is reliable ignition of powder and the bullet to leave the barrel.

The difference in specs for trail boss and A 2400 comparing 44 mag and 44 are huge.
 
overpressrue loads

Could any body explain the theory that by loading below min charges the pressure can rise. Hence the risk.

I have heard it said that what is required is reliable ignition of powder and the bullet to leave the barrel.

Two theories exist, both deal with a less than a full case( volume wise) of powder.

Powders such as H110, and Win296, and even BP, are influenced by the area exposed to the flame of ignition and the chamber pressure as the powder burns(deflagrates)

For these powders you will find that the loads fill the case volume from 97-110%, of available space with a bullet seated and crimped ( most loading data also instructs the reloader to use a heavy crimp on loads using these powders to get consistant results, and prevent bullets in other chambers/ the rest of the Mag from becoming loosened under heavy recoil)

When these critical powders do not fill the case completely there is an air space left above the powder when the cartridge is in a horizontal position(99.9999% of all firearms will have the cartridge in this position to fire). this allows more area of the powder to ignite at once, when the primer goes off, increasing the chamber pressure.

OR

The powder fills the case about half way or less and the flash hole is exposed, the primer goes off and does not ignite the powder instantly but drives the bullet( in a revolver here, but could be a rifle)into the cylider/ forcing cone gap. The rebounding flame then ignites the powder on what is now, esstially, an obstructed barrel.

Most reloaders have seen pictures of revolvers with missing top straps, and a cople of open cylinder chambers in reloading books due to reduced loads with some form of critical powder.

I have witnessed this first hand (though without the pysical destruction to the gun), while siteing in a 54 cal ml (for some reason the 54 is more prone to this). My buddy loaded his 54 and fired the first shot, adjusted the scope, loaded again, this time there is a huge bang and cut on his forehead from the scope, he figures that there was double the normal recoil. What we figure was happening : a ring of fouling was being created just above the powder in the barrel, and when seating the bullet he there was enough resistance to make him think that the bullet was seated properly, when it was not. Other owners of 54s we talked to had similar experiences.

hope this helps
tg
 
My go to "light" load for my 44 Mag's uses 9 grs of W231 under a 240 cast SWC in either Winchester or Starline brass. In the States (from where I came a few years ago) Starline can be had cheaper than everything else and it is fine brass. The above load goes 1050 fps with an ES of only 17 fps in a 5" S&W M29 and is extremely accurate. It was my turkey load when I lived in Texas and worked just fine culling whitetails and hogs on a friends ranch too.
 
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So then the key when loading 44 mag brass to 44 sp levels is seat the bullet the same depth as if 44 sp brass?
That's what I do to avoid ignition problems with a larger case.
 
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