Tavor and Glock MALFUNCTION - Frog LUBE

Trinimon said:
For all of you Froglube users who say those of us who have had issues with this lube are using it wrong. Here's Froglube's directions and note step 5.

CLP:
1. Pre-clean using above procedure with FrogLube Solvent™.
2. For best results, apply heat to area to be treated. Heat from a heat lamp, heat blower or ambient sunlight is more than sufficient.
3. Apply FrogLube and allow time to absorb. (heat quickens the rate of absorption)
4. Scrub, agitate, and wipe off excess. Normal cleaning tools such as nylon brushes, patches, wipes and towels are sufficient.
5. Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet. Note: In hot/dusty or extreme cold, follow manufacturers directions for use in extreme environmental conditions.
6. If storing, apply a light coat for long term protection.
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Jesus.

My routine:

1) Spray gun with G96.
2) Shoot thousands of rounds through said gun.
3) Disassemble said gun, spray with more G96, wipe clean.
4) Repeat steps 1 and 2
 
.223Rem said:
Isn't it pretty much a wax of some sort? I'm no expert but wax is a pretty poor lube.
I also don't understand all this stuff about how easy your gun is to clean after. I slather a bunch of light oil (plain old outters gun oil or air tool oil- the're pretty much the same) over everything in my AR. After 600-700 rounds of dirty norc .223 there is nothing in my BCG or upper that wont clean right off with a bit of Hoppes and a rag.

I don't know if i'm missing something or there is a lot of hype over nothing with frog lube.
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Yes, olefin paste wax. The only reason it works as gun lube is that guns are so simple they'll run on almost anything, as long as the environment is fairly clean as free of temperature extremes.

But you assessment is bang on. It's way overhyped.

And frankly your lube choice is excellent too...air tool oil is great for guns. You packed a lot of quality into that post.
 
Problems I keep reading about are clearly the result of improper use; the stuff is a wax and of course it's going to allow things to gum up if you swab it on like you would a thin oil. If you only extensively clean your firearms once or twice a season, frog lube is perfect if used correctly. I wouldn't use it if I was cleaning and relubing after ever session, but I have to ask why someone using modern powder and primers would do that (corrosive ammo is of course a completely different animal). What I want is a dry film that will last for a long time and allow for a quick and easy wipe off of powder residue etc and that's exactly what the FL stuff gives me. With a fresh and minty smell.
 
I just go down to my local Canadian Tire and pick up a 1L bottle of quality synthetic motor oil. It's designed to survive far more punishment than will ever happen inside your firearm. I also pick up some heavy duty, semi synthetic grease for my AR. Both are FAR cheaper than the lubricants marketed for guns, last forever and, in my opinion, are as good if not better.
 
Poochy said:
I just go down to my local Canadian Tire and pick up a 1L bottle of quality synthetic motor oil. It's designed to survive far more punishment than will ever happen inside your firearm. I also pick up some heavy duty, semi synthetic grease for my AR. Both are FAR cheaper than the lubricants marketed for guns, last forever and, in my opinion, are as good if not better.
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in this case, far, far better
 
This is just my opinion.
If it takes longer to clean and lube a firearm that was designed for the military than it takes to heat an MRE, you are doing it wrong.
If applying lube requires equipment other than the bottle the lube comes in, you are doing it wrong.
If you can't add lube to a sluggish rifle because your lube requires a 2 hour evolution involving a complete tear down, brake cleaner and a heat lamp........, you might be doing it wrong.
 
Big Bad said:
Problems I keep reading about are clearly the result of improper use; the stuff is a wax and of course it's going to allow things to gum up if you swab it on like you would a thin oil. If you only extensively clean your firearms once or twice a season, frog lube is perfect if used correctly. I wouldn't use it if I was cleaning and relubing after ever session, but I have to ask why someone using modern powder and primers would do that (corrosive ammo is of course a completely different animal). What I want is a dry film that will last for a long time and allow for a quick and easy wipe off of powder residue etc and that's exactly what the FL stuff gives me. With a fresh and minty smell.
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Did YOU read the FL instructions? Maybe I'm reading the wrong instructions (which I posted in post #20 and quoted in #22) 'cause here is step 5, again from FL's website for the CLP:

5. Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet.

Then further down in the FAQ section:

- Apply a generous coating of FrogLube to desired friction points.
- Scrub with cleaning brushes and allow to absorb.
- Wipe dry with microfiber towels.
- Lube as desired.

So tell me and all the others who followed the instructions and had failures, which part of the instructions "we" did not follow correctly?

If it was meant to be run dry after wiping off excess, they should remove the "lube as desired" or "Lubricate per manufacturer's instructions".
 
You guys are all mostly wrong. The biggest problem with Froglube is it reacts badly when other oils are on the gun. So that is what gunks it up. You have to decrease your gun and use froglube for a few cleaning rotations to get all the other oils out of it. That is causing 98% of the problems. It works great. Fireclean might be better especially in FA and suppressed.
 
I've used good old Break Free for twenty five years, always worked for me, don't know if it's better or worse than other products, I got sold on the hype back then and never had a reason to change. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
 
Trinimon said:
For all of you Froglube users who say those of us who have had issues with this lube are using it wrong. Here's Froglube's directions and note step 5.

CLP:
1. Pre-clean using above procedure with FrogLube Solvent™.
2. For best results, apply heat to area to be treated. Heat from a heat lamp, heat blower or ambient sunlight is more than sufficient.
3. Apply FrogLube and allow time to absorb. (heat quickens the rate of absorption)
4. Scrub, agitate, and wipe off excess. Normal cleaning tools such as nylon brushes, patches, wipes and towels are sufficient.
5. Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet. Note: In hot/dusty or extreme cold, follow manufacturers directions for use in extreme environmental conditions.
6. If storing, apply a light coat for long term protection.
Click to expand...

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Stoner99 said:
You guys are all mostly wrong. The biggest problem with Froglube is it reacts badly when other oils are on the gun. So that is what gunks it up. You have to decrease your gun and use froglube for a few cleaning rotations to get all the other oils out of it. That is causing 98% of the problems. It works great. Fireclean might be better especially in FA and suppressed.
Click to expand...

Did you really mean "Fireclean IS better", because that is pretty accurate.
 
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