b-wingpilot
CGN Regular
- Location
- Sherwood Park
I hope this will help some people out. Feel free to ask more questions, or post some helpfull info.
Questions:
1. How do I install the firing pin?
2. How do I field strip it?
3. How do you sight it in?
4. How do I attach the sling?
5. How do I switch it from right-side ejecting to left-side ejecting?
6. The trigger pull is kinda heavy, is there anyway to improve it?
7. Is there a top rail available so that I can mount different optics?
8. What kind of mags will work in the Tavor?
9. Can I reload for the Tavor?
10. Can I go hunting with the Tavor?
11. What parts should I oil?
12. What accessories are available?
13. How do I remove the barrel?
14. How do I make the barrel wrench?
15. Can I use a regular trigger lock?
16. How do I properly clean this rifle?
17. I've experienced a slam-fire, is this normal?
1. How do I install the firing pin?
Easy. First you have to remove the recoil assembly. The first step is to push out the butt locking pin:
Then swing the buttplate downwards.
And then finally reach in and pull out the recoil assembly, and also pulling back on the cocking handle to aid in removal.
Once the recoil assembly is removed then you can disconnect the return spring from the buffer by simply pulling down and lifting away.
Now remove the bolt guide pin.
You can now remove the bolt from the carrier. Now slide the firing pin into the back of the bolt, making sure the flat part of the firing pin towards the bottom of the bolt as illustrated.
Now slide the bolt back all the way into the carrier.
Looking from the back of the carrier the firing pin should now look like this.
Rotate the firing pin 180 degrees so that the flat part of the firing pin is now on top as illustrated.
Now just reinstall the bolt guide pin, reconnect the return spring to the buffer, and slide the entire recoil assembly into the buttstock and close it up.
2. How do I field strip it?
Again, easy stuff. Follow the steps above to remove the recoil assembly. To remove the trigger mechanism, just push out the two trigger locking pins.
and the assembly slides right out.
The hammer assembly should look like this.
This is the bolt hold open mechanism (bolt carrier stopper). It probably shouldn't be removed for field stripping, but it can pop out when removing the hammer assembly.
This thing is a little tricky to re-install. If not done properly, you could end up with a difficult to remove hammer assembly wedged into the buttstock/receiver. To properly install it first push the assembly all the way into the receiver (photos viewed from the buttplate):
then slide the assembly back downwards between the two tracks:
3. How do you sight it in?
There are a few ways to sight in this rifle. The method I chose to use was to adjust the Mepro first, then adjust the front sight to co-witness. I went with a 50m zero. To achieve this, fire 5 rounds at the target and adjust the Mepro so that the mean point of impact meets the point of aim. 1 click for each windage and elevation is about 1" at 50m.
4. How do I attach the sling?
I couldn't really find anything official so this is how I did it. For the front part I just tied a typical fishing style knot:
Then for the rear I used a double-style knot. You probably shouldn't wrap the string around the bottom of the buttstock as it will disable the bolt hold open mechanism. Heres what I did, it held up very well when I had it slung, getting bounced around while driving the quad:
5. How do I switch it from right-handed use to left-handed use?
forthcoming...
6. The trigger pull is kinda heavy, is there anyway to improve it?
Slavex pointed out a mod that lessens the weight and really improves the trigger pull. All you have to do is just remove the small spring shown here:
***Warning*** This does affect the trigger reset. The trigger may not reset if you keep the trigger held after the bolt has cycled.
7. Is there a top rail available so that I can mount different optics?
Yes! CanAm has a bunch inbound, so contact them if you need one. It is also possible for a top rail to be made from modifying a picatinny riser mount. I'll have a photo-walkthrough of how to do this soon.
8. What kind of mags will work in the Tavor?
Theoretically all STANAG mags should work in it. I've tested PMags, 10rnd pistol mags, 20rnd and 30rnd USGI, and thermold mags. All work well, except for the thermolds, which were a little tight in the magwell. Heres pics:
9. Can I reload for the Tavor?
Absolutely. Although the neck of the case gets squished a bit, a re-sizing die will iron it right out. Be careful when using match primers though, the Tavors floating pin is a little aggressive and might cause out of battery firing. I'd highly recommend using military or magnum primers.
10. Can I go hunting with the Tavor?
Of course. Check you provincial regulations, but I now regularly use the Tavor to erradicate pesky gophers, badgers and coyotes
.
11. What parts should I oil?
I usually give a few drops of break-free on the hammer assembly.
Then a few drops on the bolt, then using my fingers to spread it around and give it a thin coat on the body, on the curved area and just behind the lugs.
Also put a thin coat of oil on the carrier tracks and rails.
12. What accessories are available?
Not a whole lot right now. Kyle Precision Arms will be making a top rail, as of now they are in the design stage. KPA is also releasing a rear sling attachment which should be out soon. Tigertactical is making a drag bag which should be in production at the end of June. I talked to Chris at CanadaAmmo and here is what he told me about parts and accessories:
Shorter barrels - Yes. No firm date, hopefully this summer/fall.
MARS optic - Not likey, very little demand.
Magnifiers/Night vision - By special order.
Harris bipod attachment - Hopefully this summer.
M203s & Hardware - Import permits are not being granted, so no.
Spare parts - Yes, again hopefully this summer.
You can also make your own rail by adapting a riser mount. I made one in about half an hour, I realized too late that I should have taken pictures and made a tutorial (perhaps I could make another one for an Edmonton area CGNer and take pictures along the way for a tutorial). The rail does a surprisingly great job, I stuck a Falcon Menace 4.5x18 scope on it and was getting ~1inch 5-shot groups @ 100m. About 250 dead gophers this weekend would agree that it held zero.
It is also possible to make your own Harris bipod adapter for the Tavor. tyc147 has been kind enough to show me some pictures of how to do this using a Harris stud and the proper washers.
13. How do I remove the barrel?
forthcoming...
14. How do I make the barrel wrench?
forthcoming...
15. Can I use a regular trigger lock?
None that I've seen have worked. The easiest alternative is to use a cable lock through the ejection port.
16. How do I properly clean this rifle?
forthcoming...
17. I've experienced a slam-fire, is this normal?
There have been quite a few reports of this happening. The cause is that the Tavor has a very aggressive floating firing pin, which basically mean the firing pin hits the primer via inertia when a round is chambered. Commercial factory ammo typically has softer primers than military grade ammo, and when using commercial ammo you might experience slam-fires. There are a few options available right now to mitigate the occurrence of slam-fires; Shooting mil-spec ammo or using reloads with magnum primers (do NOT use benchrest, match grade primers), or applying grease (not oil) to the firing pin. Hopefully a spring retainer can be developed soon so that it is possible to eliminate this problem.
Canada Ammo has announced that IWI is making new, updated bolts to eliminate this problem. No new Tavors will be shipped as of July, unil the new bolts arrive in a few months. Current Tavor owners will receive the upgraded bolt free of charge.
Farmer Harv was also helpful enough to offer up some more information for left-hand Tavor users:
As the armorer's manual isn't very clear in a couple of places, especially when it comes to lefterizing the Tavor, hopefully this will help others that wish to swap things over to the dark side of the body...
A few things to note...in the pictures I have already moved everything to the lefty position, in order to remove the barrel the cocking bar MUST be removed first, and nothing should ever need to be "forced". If something won't slide or rotate smoothly don't ram or jam it, but take a close look and make sure everything is positioned correctly.
To start, make sure the rifle is unloaded, and then remove the bolt assembly from the buttstock...
There is a roll pin above the bolt that needs to be drifted over to the other side. There is another pin mentioned in the armorer's manual at the rear of the bolt assembly, but I believe moving it is only necessary when the LH bolt is installed.
To swap the safety lever and cap, move the safety to "R", depress the spring loaded plunger through the hole...
And then slide the lever off the dovetail. Swap sides, depress the plunger and slide them back on.
Remove the two screws at the front of the foregrip. They're Loctited on so may be quite snug. Swing the grip down and back to disengage the tab at the back.
Pull the little hairpin securing the front swivel and unscrew the two halves.
The cocking handle guide assembly will then slide ahead until it hits the flash suppressor.
The suppressor can either be removed (recommended) to let the assembly slide right off, or it can be "popped" off with a bit of finger pressure which will disengage the tracks.
Drift out the rollpin holding the handle to the cocking bar
And then remove the rail from the guide assembly by removing the two screws and releasing the tabs holding it on. This was the part I had the most difficulty with, until I found some bent-nose pliers that would fit in the smallish area to squeeze the two tabs together.
Swap the rail and cocking bar to the opposite sides, reinstall the roll pin in the handle, and snap the rail into place securing it with the two screws. Note the arrow on the rail which points forward when installed correctly.
For barrel removal I ground a large allen wrench down to fit in the slot, and it works quite well.
In order to rotate the barrel cam a lock on the opposite side must be depressed to allow rotation...
And then the cam can be rotated 180 degrees and the barrel slid forward and out of the stock. In this pic you can see the riser I've added, which is just an AR type riser that I hacksawed the ends off of so it would fit the opening. Nothing fancy at all, and it seems to be working very well (even though I don't have a decent optic on it yet).
After the barrel has been removed, the front shield at the front of the gas cylinder needs to be flipped over so the hole for the cocking bar is on the correct side...
And that's it. Reassemble the rifle, first installing the barrel and rotating the cam until the lock on the opposite side is fully engaged. Then reattach the cocking handle guide assembly. If the flash suppressor has been removed (recommended) then the assembly will slide on, but if not then the tracks on each side will need to be popped together so it'll slide into place. One thing to note here is to make sure the cocking handle lever is behind the lug on the top of the barrel before reassembly.
Reinstall the front grip (loctiting the screws), attach the sling swivel and install the little locking hairpin, slide the bolt assembly back in, do a dry function check of cocking bar, bolt and safety operation and you now have as fully lefty friendly a Tavor as you can at the moment.
Questions:
1. How do I install the firing pin?
2. How do I field strip it?
3. How do you sight it in?
4. How do I attach the sling?
5. How do I switch it from right-side ejecting to left-side ejecting?
6. The trigger pull is kinda heavy, is there anyway to improve it?
7. Is there a top rail available so that I can mount different optics?
8. What kind of mags will work in the Tavor?
9. Can I reload for the Tavor?
10. Can I go hunting with the Tavor?
11. What parts should I oil?
12. What accessories are available?
13. How do I remove the barrel?
14. How do I make the barrel wrench?
15. Can I use a regular trigger lock?
16. How do I properly clean this rifle?
17. I've experienced a slam-fire, is this normal?
1. How do I install the firing pin?
Easy. First you have to remove the recoil assembly. The first step is to push out the butt locking pin:
Then swing the buttplate downwards.
And then finally reach in and pull out the recoil assembly, and also pulling back on the cocking handle to aid in removal.
Once the recoil assembly is removed then you can disconnect the return spring from the buffer by simply pulling down and lifting away.
Now remove the bolt guide pin.
You can now remove the bolt from the carrier. Now slide the firing pin into the back of the bolt, making sure the flat part of the firing pin towards the bottom of the bolt as illustrated.
Now slide the bolt back all the way into the carrier.
Looking from the back of the carrier the firing pin should now look like this.
Rotate the firing pin 180 degrees so that the flat part of the firing pin is now on top as illustrated.
Now just reinstall the bolt guide pin, reconnect the return spring to the buffer, and slide the entire recoil assembly into the buttstock and close it up.
2. How do I field strip it?
Again, easy stuff. Follow the steps above to remove the recoil assembly. To remove the trigger mechanism, just push out the two trigger locking pins.
and the assembly slides right out.
The hammer assembly should look like this.
This is the bolt hold open mechanism (bolt carrier stopper). It probably shouldn't be removed for field stripping, but it can pop out when removing the hammer assembly.
This thing is a little tricky to re-install. If not done properly, you could end up with a difficult to remove hammer assembly wedged into the buttstock/receiver. To properly install it first push the assembly all the way into the receiver (photos viewed from the buttplate):
then slide the assembly back downwards between the two tracks:
3. How do you sight it in?
There are a few ways to sight in this rifle. The method I chose to use was to adjust the Mepro first, then adjust the front sight to co-witness. I went with a 50m zero. To achieve this, fire 5 rounds at the target and adjust the Mepro so that the mean point of impact meets the point of aim. 1 click for each windage and elevation is about 1" at 50m.
4. How do I attach the sling?
I couldn't really find anything official so this is how I did it. For the front part I just tied a typical fishing style knot:
Then for the rear I used a double-style knot. You probably shouldn't wrap the string around the bottom of the buttstock as it will disable the bolt hold open mechanism. Heres what I did, it held up very well when I had it slung, getting bounced around while driving the quad:
5. How do I switch it from right-handed use to left-handed use?
forthcoming...
6. The trigger pull is kinda heavy, is there anyway to improve it?
Slavex pointed out a mod that lessens the weight and really improves the trigger pull. All you have to do is just remove the small spring shown here:
***Warning*** This does affect the trigger reset. The trigger may not reset if you keep the trigger held after the bolt has cycled.
7. Is there a top rail available so that I can mount different optics?
Yes! CanAm has a bunch inbound, so contact them if you need one. It is also possible for a top rail to be made from modifying a picatinny riser mount. I'll have a photo-walkthrough of how to do this soon.
8. What kind of mags will work in the Tavor?
Theoretically all STANAG mags should work in it. I've tested PMags, 10rnd pistol mags, 20rnd and 30rnd USGI, and thermold mags. All work well, except for the thermolds, which were a little tight in the magwell. Heres pics:
9. Can I reload for the Tavor?
Absolutely. Although the neck of the case gets squished a bit, a re-sizing die will iron it right out. Be careful when using match primers though, the Tavors floating pin is a little aggressive and might cause out of battery firing. I'd highly recommend using military or magnum primers.
10. Can I go hunting with the Tavor?
Of course. Check you provincial regulations, but I now regularly use the Tavor to erradicate pesky gophers, badgers and coyotes
.11. What parts should I oil?
I usually give a few drops of break-free on the hammer assembly.
Then a few drops on the bolt, then using my fingers to spread it around and give it a thin coat on the body, on the curved area and just behind the lugs.
Also put a thin coat of oil on the carrier tracks and rails.
12. What accessories are available?
Not a whole lot right now. Kyle Precision Arms will be making a top rail, as of now they are in the design stage. KPA is also releasing a rear sling attachment which should be out soon. Tigertactical is making a drag bag which should be in production at the end of June. I talked to Chris at CanadaAmmo and here is what he told me about parts and accessories:
Shorter barrels - Yes. No firm date, hopefully this summer/fall.
MARS optic - Not likey, very little demand.
Magnifiers/Night vision - By special order.
Harris bipod attachment - Hopefully this summer.
M203s & Hardware - Import permits are not being granted, so no.
Spare parts - Yes, again hopefully this summer.
You can also make your own rail by adapting a riser mount. I made one in about half an hour, I realized too late that I should have taken pictures and made a tutorial (perhaps I could make another one for an Edmonton area CGNer and take pictures along the way for a tutorial). The rail does a surprisingly great job, I stuck a Falcon Menace 4.5x18 scope on it and was getting ~1inch 5-shot groups @ 100m. About 250 dead gophers this weekend would agree that it held zero
.
It is also possible to make your own Harris bipod adapter for the Tavor. tyc147 has been kind enough to show me some pictures of how to do this using a Harris stud and the proper washers.
13. How do I remove the barrel?
forthcoming...
14. How do I make the barrel wrench?
forthcoming...
15. Can I use a regular trigger lock?
None that I've seen have worked. The easiest alternative is to use a cable lock through the ejection port.
16. How do I properly clean this rifle?
forthcoming...
17. I've experienced a slam-fire, is this normal?
There have been quite a few reports of this happening. The cause is that the Tavor has a very aggressive floating firing pin, which basically mean the firing pin hits the primer via inertia when a round is chambered. Commercial factory ammo typically has softer primers than military grade ammo, and when using commercial ammo you might experience slam-fires. There are a few options available right now to mitigate the occurrence of slam-fires; Shooting mil-spec ammo or using reloads with magnum primers (do NOT use benchrest, match grade primers), or applying grease (not oil) to the firing pin. Hopefully a spring retainer can be developed soon so that it is possible to eliminate this problem.
Canada Ammo has announced that IWI is making new, updated bolts to eliminate this problem. No new Tavors will be shipped as of July, unil the new bolts arrive in a few months. Current Tavor owners will receive the upgraded bolt free of charge.
Farmer Harv was also helpful enough to offer up some more information for left-hand Tavor users:
As the armorer's manual isn't very clear in a couple of places, especially when it comes to lefterizing the Tavor, hopefully this will help others that wish to swap things over to the dark side of the body...
A few things to note...in the pictures I have already moved everything to the lefty position, in order to remove the barrel the cocking bar MUST be removed first, and nothing should ever need to be "forced". If something won't slide or rotate smoothly don't ram or jam it, but take a close look and make sure everything is positioned correctly.
To start, make sure the rifle is unloaded, and then remove the bolt assembly from the buttstock...
There is a roll pin above the bolt that needs to be drifted over to the other side. There is another pin mentioned in the armorer's manual at the rear of the bolt assembly, but I believe moving it is only necessary when the LH bolt is installed.
To swap the safety lever and cap, move the safety to "R", depress the spring loaded plunger through the hole...
And then slide the lever off the dovetail. Swap sides, depress the plunger and slide them back on.
Remove the two screws at the front of the foregrip. They're Loctited on so may be quite snug. Swing the grip down and back to disengage the tab at the back.
Pull the little hairpin securing the front swivel and unscrew the two halves.
The cocking handle guide assembly will then slide ahead until it hits the flash suppressor.
The suppressor can either be removed (recommended) to let the assembly slide right off, or it can be "popped" off with a bit of finger pressure which will disengage the tracks.
Drift out the rollpin holding the handle to the cocking bar
And then remove the rail from the guide assembly by removing the two screws and releasing the tabs holding it on. This was the part I had the most difficulty with, until I found some bent-nose pliers that would fit in the smallish area to squeeze the two tabs together.
Swap the rail and cocking bar to the opposite sides, reinstall the roll pin in the handle, and snap the rail into place securing it with the two screws. Note the arrow on the rail which points forward when installed correctly.
For barrel removal I ground a large allen wrench down to fit in the slot, and it works quite well.
In order to rotate the barrel cam a lock on the opposite side must be depressed to allow rotation...
And then the cam can be rotated 180 degrees and the barrel slid forward and out of the stock. In this pic you can see the riser I've added, which is just an AR type riser that I hacksawed the ends off of so it would fit the opening. Nothing fancy at all, and it seems to be working very well (even though I don't have a decent optic on it yet).
After the barrel has been removed, the front shield at the front of the gas cylinder needs to be flipped over so the hole for the cocking bar is on the correct side...
And that's it. Reassemble the rifle, first installing the barrel and rotating the cam until the lock on the opposite side is fully engaged. Then reattach the cocking handle guide assembly. If the flash suppressor has been removed (recommended) then the assembly will slide on, but if not then the tracks on each side will need to be popped together so it'll slide into place. One thing to note here is to make sure the cocking handle lever is behind the lug on the top of the barrel before reassembly.
Reinstall the front grip (loctiting the screws), attach the sling swivel and install the little locking hairpin, slide the bolt assembly back in, do a dry function check of cocking bar, bolt and safety operation and you now have as fully lefty friendly a Tavor as you can at the moment.
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