Yep did that. The spring is just a retainer for the trigger pin.
Tavor / X95 Triggers
- Thread starter I Dont Care About You
- Start date
Yep did that. The spring is just a retainer for the trigger pin.
richmyster
CGN frequent flyer
It took fine tuning of the screw tightness to find the sweet spot. Had to take the rifle apart like 4 times to get it perfect. Too loose the trigger is still sloppy. Too tight and I believe the trigger didn't reset properly if I'm remembering correctly. You want it as tight as possible without causing the reset to fail.
I tuned the trigger bow in one go. Had the hammer cocked and then tuned it with the rifle disassembled. Seemed fairly simple to me. I just left a small amount of slop before the second stage wall. Checked the safety would engage and that was it. I didn't try to tune the second stage close to the break.
I wasn't doing the trigger for accuracy reasons. I am after a crisper, cleaner break and possibly reduced pull weight. Not a fan of the long, mushy trigger pull. Even my Glock trigger has a defined 2-stage like wall and reduced overtravel. I like to pre-stage the trigger to the second stage, which then gives me a more predictable break.
As you stated, our AR's are lounging in jail and as the X95 is the only SA rifle I will run in the foreseeable future, I don't mind spending a bit to make it more user friendly for me.
The wife also has an X95 and we compared the stock trigger to the trigger bow upgrade and she prefers the OEM trigger. She is not as discerning about triggers as I am so she will stick with the full OEM trigger setup.
As you stated, our AR's are lounging in jail and as the X95 is the only SA rifle I will run in the foreseeable future, I don't mind spending a bit to make it more user friendly for me.
The wife also has an X95 and we compared the stock trigger to the trigger bow upgrade and she prefers the OEM trigger. She is not as discerning about triggers as I am so she will stick with the full OEM trigger setup.
I'm a little confused. My OEM trigger has a very well defined 2 stage wall and break. Granted the "break" isn't as clean as it is with some "glass rod" type triggers, and the reset is a little long, but I wouldn't say the break is unpredictable at all. If anything, the opposite.
Once on target, like you, I also like to pre-stage my shots (when precision shooting) and I'll hold against that wall while a plate is swinging, waiting for it to settle so I can take my shot. Sometimes, that can be quite the wait, minutes against that wall. I find it very predictable. So the only reason I can find that someone would swap out to an aftermarket trigger and bow is to lighten the pull, and fair enough. The pull weight is heavy (as a military rifle should be.).
I have shot pistols that have had trigger work done to them, and in my humble opinion, they're (a light trigger) just dangerous. I don't care for them, and I certainly wouldn't holster one. I believe there is a happy medium between say 1940's government issue 1911 pull weight (somewhere around a tonne? ;D) and a Gucci race gun 1911, "breathe on it and she'll go", trigger. For me that's somewhere between say 5 and 7 pounds, with as you say, a two stage wall. It's perfect as it will easily fire when I intend to fire rather than just going off as I'm fingering the trigger guard.
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I'm not after a target trigger but there is a wide gulf between the OEM trigger and a target trigger. Much like a Glock trigger, the OEM X95 trigger has a long second stage pull and I'd like to get rid of most of that while retaining a defined second stage wall. If possible I'd prefer a 2-4 lb trigger.
Well, let's face it, military triggers are heavy because the average soldier isn't a marksman. I want better because I have decades of experience with better triggers.
This may come as a surprise to you but even big dollar race gun triggers can't be so light as to have a tendency to go off unintentionally. Those triggers are only as light as the competitor's can safely use. If a shooter can't use a 2lb or, even a 2oz trigger without setting it off unintentionally, then that's a training problem.
Sure, I've met lots of newbies, and even a bunch of experienced shooters who are unfamiliar with target triggers. I am neither of those. I am perfectly capable of handling triggers in the single digit ounces range. Once again, that's not what I'm after with the X95. A clean or cleaner break in the 2-4lb range is my goal. I'm told the full meal deal Giessele will fit that bill but I won't know till it arrives.
FINALLY got the full two part Geissele trigger installed in my X95 and .............. I'm not exactly blown away by it. 
Its a lot of money for a MEH trigger.
Yes, it is lighter and shorter pull than the OEM trigger but it's not exactly what I'd call crisp and for the cost I really expected better. If it was a $200 trigger I'd say it is a well worthwhile upgrade, but for $800.
I will say that I haven't really attempted to tune the trigger bow yet. I originally put it in with the OEM trigger pack and adjusted most of the slop out but not all of it because I want to retain a 2-stage pull. Maybe I'll try and adjust the bow somewhat and see what that does. I'm not overly positive it will remove the not-smooth second stage portion of the pull though. I don't think that is what the bow is supposed to do.
Its a lot of money for a MEH trigger.Yes, it is lighter and shorter pull than the OEM trigger but it's not exactly what I'd call crisp and for the cost I really expected better. If it was a $200 trigger I'd say it is a well worthwhile upgrade, but for $800.
I will say that I haven't really attempted to tune the trigger bow yet. I originally put it in with the OEM trigger pack and adjusted most of the slop out but not all of it because I want to retain a 2-stage pull. Maybe I'll try and adjust the bow somewhat and see what that does. I'm not overly positive it will remove the not-smooth second stage portion of the pull though. I don't think that is what the bow is supposed to do.
