Tenda CZ 427 7.62x39

Gatehouse said:
Maybe bed this new stock to give it every chance you can to avoid splits :)
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X2.

But I'd be inclined to repair the stock rather than replace it, which if done correctly would be unnoticeable, and wouldn't negatively affect the performance of the rifle. I'd forget the the warranty route unless you're content to be without the rifle for weeks or perhaps even months. As an aside, if a wood stock cracks from firing, it probably relates to loose action screws, or uneven bedding. A good bedding job will always enhance the rifle not only in terms of durability, but it's accuracy as well; mirror image bedding cannot help but make the rifle shoot better.
 
If your stock was replaced and you still have the old stock then go ahead and repair the old stock. Its a wood stock, go full Russian on it. Drill a small hole, then spread the crack and drip in the the adhesive of choice (be sure to degrease first) then bind it up tight till cured. Wipe away excess glue and buff to choice. This gives you a spare knock around stock which if fixed will be great to use as your hunting stock for instance... or just a spare.

Here is a M38 I fixed, shoots great. My mistake was using a clear adhesive, another time i will make a sawdust/glue slurry then apply so it fills in the space. Still I am happy with the result and it is a 3" rifle at 100yrds.



 
Gatehouse said:
Maybe bed this new stock to give it every chance you can to avoid splits :)
Click to expand...

Never bedded a rifle before, might be time to pick up some JB Weld. When I removed the old stock it looked like it was mounted well. Screws tight. Only the front block and rear post making good contact. The crack doesn't seem to go all the way through yet, but it's hard to tell when it's not sanded smooth.
 
Boomer said:
X2.

But I'd be inclined to repair the stock rather than replace it, which if done correctly would be unnoticeable, and wouldn't negatively affect the performance of the rifle. I'd forget the the warranty route unless you're content to be without the rifle for weeks or perhaps even months. As an aside, if a wood stock cracks from firing, it probably relates to loose action screws, or uneven bedding. A good bedding job will always enhance the rifle not only in terms of durability, but it's accuracy as well; mirror image bedding cannot help but make the rifle shoot better.
Click to expand...

CZ was great. Had the new stock in 5 days after first email. As another suggested I'm going to see if I can repair the crack and maybe bed the original stock. No harm or fowl if it gets mucked up.
Still waiting on the inch pounds I'm to tighten to but otherwise the new stock is already installed.
 
philhut said:
If your stock was replaced and you still have the old stock then go ahead and repair the old stock. Its a wood stock, go full Russian on it. Drill a small hole, then spread the crack and drip in the the adhesive of choice (be sure to degrease first) then bind it up tight till cured. Wipe away excess glue and buff to choice. This gives you a spare knock around stock which if fixed will be great to use as your hunting stock for instance... or just a spare.

Here is a M38 I fixed, shoots great. My mistake was using a clear adhesive, another time i will make a sawdust/glue slurry then apply so it fills in the space. Still I am happy with the result and it is a 3" rifle at 100yrds.
Click to expand...
Looks good. How long did you let it sit before mounting and testing?

I wasn't expecting to keep the old stock, it was a bonus. I'm planning on repairing it but I'm thinking of bedding it now as well. I've used the sawdust trick on butcher block counters before, and nice wood trim, so that and my good carpenters glue, watered down a bit, should be nice. (I'll take some material from inside the old stock before I bed it.) The barrel free floats so just bedding the action area up to the block should be good I assume? {I'll be looking that up as well.) The rear sight barrel loop may or may not touch the stock.

Just wondering if I should drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading, like I would for a motorcycle windscreen, before I try to fill the crack? This is the top screw, not the bottom tang screw. The crack looks like it's turning to the side, so I want to head it off before vibration pushes it further.

Sort of looking forward to it now... learn a few things and get it done right.
 
Zen_Seeker said:
Still waiting on the inch pounds I'm to tighten to but otherwise the new stock is already installed.
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Start with the rear screw and then to the front.
I would start at 25 and work up to 35 inch pounds
Remember I like to fix things till they break and save the JB Weld for an engine block or some underwater boat repair.
Use devcon for bedding and if its glue you want to use use that Gorilla glue from Home Depot, can not go wrong there if it where my freebee gun stock.
As a matter of fact I used my cousins dental drill (hes retired dental tech) to hog out a 1/16'' slot in a crack on a Wby Vangusrd Walnut stock and used some JB Weld to bond the crack.
We spread it out a little filled with JB them wrapped the stock with some surgical tubing till it set.
Turned out fine, crack didnt run , but was left with a thin grey streak that is hardly noticeable...a easy project that even I couldnt norck up.
Rob
 
I stripped the stock of all grease with Degreaser/non-bleach Tilex and neutralising with dishsoap/water then rinsing with water. Let it dry over several days. Once dry the crack is blunted by drilling a small hole at the end of the crack line. I used glue from the dollar store for wood repair. Using a small wedge of some type pry the crack open slightly and as far as you can get it insert adhesive thru the crack. Again a small brass pin (I found some in the cheap wall hanging kits are brass) coat the pin in adhesive and insert it in the hole you drilled. The tricky part is you are either patient or depending on the angle of the crack are able to fix soft wood vices to the unit or even rubber tubing ties around the stock. From what I read it is best to avoid fast curing glue's as they are not overall a good adhesive for the long haul. I used a slower setting glue and held the stock tight for about half an hour on top of rubber tubing. Once the glue set overnight I used snips to cut the brass pins as short as possible then carefully used a file then steel wool to smooth it down. I coated the rifle in true oil afterwords and even though the crack is visible (should have chosen the coloured adhesive or mixed with fine wood dust) it is very tight and solid. This was my first stock repair and it went better than I'd hoped, and I know what I would do differently next time.
 
I had some time to look over the old stock again. Looks like the crack starts from the top bolt hole, both sides of the hole, and goes on an angle to the right side of the forend. It's about 3" not 2" and fades into the side of the stock. They have a floating pillar in the back end, the tang and the hole are fine, and some putty in the barrel lug, but that's about it.

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I'll look at dealing with the crack first so it can sit a few days before trying the bedding. I can use my fingers and thumb to open the crack when my hand is in the action/trigger group hole so wedging it open, a least a bit, is possible. However it looks like it could expand the crack further so maybe a reverse wood clamp might help here. I have good glue already so I should be able to get to this next week.

For the bedding my LGS don't carry bedding compounds. Cabela's is the only one who lists a bedding kit and it doesn't seem all that great. At least I can get JB Weld easily at any CT. I've heard/read it works well but I have no experience either way. We'll see what I can find over the next few weeks while I deal with the crack.

Now that I can see the crack, and how it goes through the bolt hole, I'm planning to do the pillar bedding first.

I did find a couple of good examples for bedding the rifle here;
1. CZ 527 17 HORNET Glass bedding the pillers
2. CZ 527 GLASS BEDDING 17 HORNET

So, for now, I'll clean out the inside of the stock and make open the crack with a dremel tool. My wife can get the medical tubing from work. And I have a wood vice and/or wood "F" clamps I can use if needed.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I'll take some pics as I go in case anyone cares down the road.

Zen
 
For anything warranty the first thing I would do is e-mail the manufacture. Let them tell you what to do. I did that when my CSA Vz 58 blew up. I e-mailed CSA, the directed me to Movie Arms who were the warranty center at the time, I contacted them, sent the rifle to them, they repaired the rifle, and they sent it back. Took about 1 month. Was actually pretty quick but everyone you talk to who went though warranty with Movie Arms was very happy.
 
was highly considering buying one of these rifles, but every review I read indicated that the stock on the reviewers rifle either cracked or outright broke. I think CZ has to figure something out here.
 
Mumbles Marble Mouth said:
For anything warranty the first thing I would do is e-mail the manufacture. Let them tell you what to do. I did that when my CSA Vz 58 blew up. I e-mailed CSA, the directed me to Movie Arms who were the warranty center at the time, I contacted them, sent the rifle to them, they repaired the rifle, and they sent it back. Took about 1 month. Was actually pretty quick but everyone you talk to who went though warranty with Movie Arms was very happy.
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I did better than that already, I had a replacement stock in 5 days after contacting CZ. Since I got to keep the old stock I'm attempting to repair the crack and pillar bed it.
 
FLYBYU44 said:
was highly considering buying one of these rifles, but every review I read indicated that the stock on the reviewers rifle either cracked or outright broke. I think CZ has to figure something out here.
Click to expand...

It's troubling but after shooting it and getting great results I would do it again. I've already tested the rifle with the new stock and it seems to be fine. I only did about 10 rounds as I want to bed the new stock after practicing on the old one.

Up to you but I'm glad I bought one and CZ came through for me.
 
At this point the new stock is a good fit and on the rifle until I finish fixing the old stock. I will bed it before I use it again.
I've used dowel and JB Weld to fix the crack and it turned out very nice. Just have to wait until tomorrow before removing the clamp. (It's still damp/cold here for mid May and I want this 100% dry before I remove the clamp.)
As JB Weld is very runny it was good for fixing the crack with a dowel as a plunger. I also used the remainder to do one brass pillar since it had thickened up.
Once it's 100% dry I'll do the second pillar before doing the final bedding.

After all is said and done I'll start a new thread with pics showing the steps.
 
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