Tenifer, Glock, and “Toughness” - One season’s guiding & bushpiloting on a G40

scratching my head over here...
what I gather of your picture with the Bear is that your life can't depend on a gun in that condition whether it is a glock or X... It seems rather irresponsible. Don't you think?
 
rkm456 said:
Only if its constantly applied. It's displaced very easily because of how thin it is.

Very cool/interesting OP though.
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Yep, and that it is. Heavier stuff like Eezox which I have too can easily gum up a light striker assembly like in the Glock. I do use it on bolt actions and double rifles however, they’re less sensitive and finicky.

WD40 matches cosmoline for at least 72 hours, and makes CLP look very bad. I generally WD the G40 every couple days.

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Your internal Glock parts are rusting and corroding badly enough that you are concerned, yet you say your Winchester 70 experiences none of the same symptoms? Why is that? Just curious......and envious.
 
Avenida said:
scratching my head over here...
what I gather of your picture with the Bear is that your life can't depend on a gun in that condition whether it is a glock or X... It seems rather irresponsible. Don't you think?
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No, I don’t see it that way personally. This Glock is there to hang ready at hand even when the .375 H&H can’t be. If it doesn’t have a hard life by being there every moment you don’t know you might need it, I’m not using it for what it’s for. As alluded I have to consider frequent internals replacements, or new guns seasonally or bi-seasonally. An overhaul and even more corrosion prevention seems most likely, or a move away from a striker fired mechanism which is a lot more sensitive to the oil required.

savagelh said:
Cool post. Nice to see pieces that are actually used and abused on a daily basis.
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Off range rough conditions definitely change your perception of them, they’re delicate machines, even those reputed not to be so sensitive.

redryder said:
Your internal Glock parts are rusting and corroding badly enough that you are concerned, yet you say your Winchester 70 experiences none of the same symptoms? Why is that? Just curious......and envious.
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The model 70’s guts look as new, but it can be coated with gummy Eezox and not worry the mechanism. The internals are a lot less sensitive as well as it’s not striker fired / heavier springs and forces. I also find a lot less salt residue and sand in the model 70’s internals. For what it’s worth I had to stop using a 590A1 after one season in the model 70’s role.
 
From what you have posted you are saying you only hit it with wd 40 every 3 days or so?

If that is correct your issues are not product related, but maintenance related. In the conditions you are describing you need to address this daily at a min.

I suspect that with better/more CLP, and daily maint your issues will disappear

Shawn
 
Ardent said:
Don’t read the thread? ;)
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Hit it with WD and lake water “when possible” didn’t sound regular.
shawn said:
From what you have posted you are saying you only hit it with wd 40 every 3 days or so?

If that is correct your issues are not product related, but maintenance related. In the conditions you are describing you need to address this daily at a min.

I suspect that with better/more CLP, and daily maint your issues will disappear

Shawn
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This^ I can’t carry so I can’t say how strict i would be with regular oiling and cleaning either but yeah seems maintenance related to me.
 
shawn said:
Is that the only rust?

Looks like it is just the aftermarket sights and the MOS cover, which probably is not coating with anything special to save cost

Shawn
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I agree with Shawn

also consider that those sights, screws and plate are different type steel.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Ardent said:
Unfortunately the internals, especially springs, get it first. And the bore of the barrel, especially at the muzzle.



The cosmetic aspects / exterior are all that would help with I’m afraid, I’m most concerned with the springs and finer workings.
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You can just change those parts out every year as someone mentioned. like $30-40 for most of the parts (recoil spring, mos plate screws)

Are those Trueglow sights?

also more oil

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9lpDkk_xlA
 
If that assessment’s accurate of what it takes to make a Glock run in coastal conditions, it may well not be the gun for the job. One of my coworker’s ATC’d Smith .44 goes through the same and receives zero attention aside from WD, doesn’t miss a beat. I suspect the striker firing is the issue here, much lighter spring pressures.

Big fan of the Glock and shoot it more naturally than any other, love the light weight on the hip, the 10mm Glock frame is also the most comfortable for my hand. This said if it gets to daily tear downs and oiling that tears into the already too slim sleep time I get after getting the boats and planes secured then waking up again first in camp to do it all again, and it ain’t going to happen and will be forced to seek a less sensitive alternative.
 
Waynetheman said:
Hit it with WD and lake water “when possible” didn’t sound regular.

This^ I can’t carry so I can’t say how strict i would be with regular oiling and cleaning either but yeah seems maintenance related to me.
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I'm not a guide in the backcountry or any coastal region, I've never even hunted near the coast. But I can only assume sidearm maintenance is near the bottom of the long daily to do list. It's not like he can be back at a base camp or cabin every night with time to spare and proper cleaning kits and lubes at hand.
 
Bingo. Might be lucky to get five hours when solo guiding, and usually wake up hourly to check boats and planes in the 20 foot tide swings and storms. A gun that I have to fiddle with daily in non existent personal time will be a no go and not make the cut, ideally it should run maintenance free for the duration of a trip aside from oiling. I still think the Glock can do it, and have received only one failure to fire which fortunately was on the range, but it will likely take a more intensive maintenance and parts cycling regimen. As long as that can happen after the season, I’ll continue to make it work. Wake up call Glocks aren’t invincible, is what this was. We don’t see this with only Glocks, outboards, gear and packs, stoves, all suffer.
 
DA revolver may be more reliable vs. striker fired pistol, but I suspect the internals may be a rusted mess and suffer. As I said, I think I'd stick with the Glock (maybe find an Austrian Gen 3 for the tenifer and no MOS screws) and swap out the springs every 6 months and barrel as needed... Aftermarket stainless barrels may be more resistant than the OEM.
 
I strip my stainless and hard chromed long guns apart and give them a thorough cleaning/oiling periodically if they've been hunted hard through the crap the outdoors has to offer.
The more and more often the exposure the more often the stripping and cleaning.
Guns are corrosion/rust resistant not corrosion/rust proof.
Even the stainless steel guns will corrode if not cared for properly.
Some of the internal parts in so called stainless or hard chromed guns are not stainless and will rust.
Where I hunt I've seen ordinary 'blued' firearms turn red with rust after 1 night in the tent.
Nothing more disheartening than picking up a rusty gun that was perfect 8 hrs ago.
 
I would contact GLOCK and describe your working conditions, I am sure they will steer you to a better product.

SS Screws to hold down the MOS plate might be beneficial. I know overlubricating a GLOCK can lead to a misfire.

WD40 works well, I prefer plain old Vaseline petroleum jelly in a salt environment. Easy on, Easy off, protects reasonably well.
 
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