That stubborn screw

A couple other tricks I have used are:
- take a heated soldering iron and place it against the screw to heat it, let it cool then repeat 3 or 4 times - the heating and cooling cycles can break the screw loose, a blast of canned air to provide extra cooling just before you try to remove it will 'shrink' the screw.
- set the impact driver to tighten and give the screw one moderate tap, this will help to dislodge rust and free the threads.

Dan
 
Awe Hell Nahww!!! :(

Sorry Nabs! Was hoping for a better outcome for your Gew98!

Did you have the correct sized bit for that screw? (Not the bits that come with the impact driver I hope...)

The screw I tried taking out was already stripped, and using a hammer and screw driver to try and break it loose, plus trying to torque it out the old fashioned way with my hollow ground drivers just stripped it more...

To get it out I locked the rifle in a sturdy gun vise on my work bench, put the driver on the slowest torque setting in the hammer drill mode, applied as much downward pressure as my muscles and body weight could give, and pressed the trigger... *SNAP*, it broke free from its tomb of threads and came out in one piece!

After taking it out I could see it had traces of rust and sand in the threads and on the screw... you could be dealing with such a beast too.

Again, really sorry the advice did not work out for you... I have used hardened steel drill bits, and damaged screw removers to take out seized screws on Ross Rifles and Mosin Nagants, but have never had to do it to a Mauser.

The advice from member Dan B may be another way to get it to "sweat" out, alternating hot and cold could help shrink the steel enough to get it out...

Or, bring it out here to Alberta and we can tag team that old girl!!! ;)
 
Desert_Fox said:
Nabs liked the bolt so much he almost talked me out of it.... ;)
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I can still talk you out of it, you just wait :D.

This old girl is a 1916 DWM, double suffix letter too which caught my eye right away. I figured for now I'll just leave it as is and see if my light reloads are enough to help dislodge the screw over time. The good friend I got this wonderful lady from shot her previously and had no issues.

Dan B, that is an interesting trick with the hot and cold, do you believe it would affect the screw negatively in the future in terms of strength ?
 
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Nabs said:
Dan B, that is an interesting trick with the hot and cold, do you believe it would affect the screw negatively in the future in terms of strength ?
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Soldering guns run around 800F (425C) which is just at the lowest temperature for tempering steel, but before then the wood stock around the screw would start to smoke. Most solder guns won't have the capacity to overheat the screw.
Keep the solder gun in contact long a minute or so, long enough for the heat to travel through the head down the shank to the threads.
Another option is to heat the action in the area of the screw with a heat gun/hair dryer.

Penetrating oils have been recommended but will only be effective if you can get them to the threads, if the threaded hole that the screw is in goes through the action add oil from the top end also - if you haven't already.

Dan
 
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