I'll try my best. Not going to take it apart to take pictures, then upload them, then post them all, but I'll try my best
if you can #### the hammer by hand once the trigger is installed into the housing, with the clip in place its good and you need it. often it may be a bit hard the first time or two. I made the mistake of thinking that I didn't need it as it cocked and held it nicely with out it and it was hard with it so I left it out.
It appeared to be just fine. it would #### and eject and fire every time by hand with dummy ammo. I then adjusted the trigger to where its supposed to be. How you do that is you adjust the screw in(tighten it) until the trigger will not reset. You will know as the hammer will #### but the trigger will not pull due to it not resetting. it will feel the same as before you cocked it again. Then you loosen it 2 turns or so.
However, when I went to the range, the thing would fire once and then no trigger reset. I backed the adjustment out half a turn at a time until it was not contacting the little bit on the trigger anymore and it still did this. Very annoying. I would get the occasional 2 shot setup. not a burst but two in a row that would shoot. It would ALWAYS shoot again after I re cocked the thing. However it would never shoot more than once except for the occasional two in a row.
I called Sierra Papa, and they were great, and phoned me back on their own dime to talk me thru it. I was at work, so I wasn't able to actually work on the rifle with them.
I kept playing around with it and I found what turned out to be the solution. If I cocked it and let it slam home(simulating a firing cycle) it wouldn't reset. However if I helped it close and not let it slam home, it would always reset the trigger and let it be fired. I did this a few times and it was fully repeatable. Turns out that when the bolt slammed home it would let the trigger go and the hammer would follow it. So its not cocked anymore. If you helped the cocking lever forward and not let it slam back, the hammer would not get tripped. Thus, a round would be chambered and the hammer and trigger were still cocked, ready to fire.
So I put the little clip back in. Hammer was tight, so I worked it a few times by hand and it loosened up a bit to be about right.
Reinstalled and reassembled the whole firearm. readjusted the trigger as per the original, and tested it by hand. Absolutely no problems at all. I could slam it forward with gusto and the trigger would still be set and the hammer would still be ready to go. yay! Tried it lots, no problems.
Off to the range. 10 rounds? No problem. another 10 and I got one no reset, so I backed out the screw half a turn. 150 more rounds and no problems at all now.
Trigger is great, little carbine is as it should be. I suspect that with the little steel clip in place and interfacing with the steel part on the trigger sear, it will last longer as the original plastic won't wear out as quickly. It feels nicer too. Crisper break.
oh, one more thing. This trigger works by pulling the trigger group housing against the lower receiver. In the stock setup, there is slop fore and aft between the housing and receiver. I shimmed the front of the housing with card stock. You will need to cut two pieces, one for each side of the front of the housing. I forget what it is, but there is something in the middle of the housing that prevents you from using one piece. Don't worry tho, its easy, just measure and cut. Then hold the housing rearward and slide the little pieces of card stock into place. its a decently tight fit. mine fit nicely with a business card. The housing does not move at all now. Quite a bit less slop in the trigger now, and its even better than just the trigger parts from Sierra Papa.
I suppose one could do it with nicer metal parts, but its been several months now, and there are no problems with the card ones.