So. I'm a doofus. Read a little further, and you'll know why.
I've been putting the finishing touches on a Norc M14 that I took to Hungry's clinic in Calgary on the weekend. After plenty of help from Hungry and other folks in the clinic (and a 4 pound sledge with a cold chisel), I finally got my flash hider off. I tried the "180 degree" treatment to tighten up my gas lock. It was an improvement but not great. So I figured out which side of the gas lock would require the removal of the least amount of material and set to it with some 100 grit sandpaper on a nice flat bench.
Insert long pause because it took me a while. I stopped and test fit pretty frequently, knowing that I really didn't want to be taking too much off.
Once I got to where I thought I wanted to be (I would need a mallet to close it all the way) I figured that I was in good shape. I put the handguard back in place, rested the end of the gas cylinder up against a wood block, and gave it a few taps. And then a few more taps. And said to myself "This will be great....it'll be nice and tight!". And a few more thumps. (notice that these are no longer taps).
Long story short, my gas piston will now slide through my gas cylinder only when pushed through.
-If the piston is to the rear and I let the bolt slam forward as it would during normal operation, the op rod moves all the way forward and the bolt returns to battery.
-If I ride the cocking handle forward and control the op rod's movement so that it's slow, the op rod will not move all the way forward, and the bolt does not return to battery. It stops about half an inch shy of being in battery.
-The piston will no longer slide to the rear under gravity's pull. I need to pull out the gas plug and press firmly with a punch in order to get it to move to the rear.
My gut hunch is that I bent my gas cylinder by being too enthusiastic about having a tight gas system. Being a doofus, sometimes I end up learning things the hard way. I accept this.
Here are my questions:
-Am I correct in thinking that this level of "stiction" within the gas system is cause to replace my gas cylinder?
-Should I replace my piston too?
-If I need to replace the cylinder, will a USGI cylinder fit onto my Norc barrel, and with the Norc gas lock?
-Can I re-use the Norc spindle valve, or should I install a new valve/spring/pin?
-If I'm going to buy a new piston anyways, is there any mileage in buying the grooved Sadlak NM gas piston?
-Am I correct in thinking that the Norc gas lock is threaded differently than the USGI gas locks, and thus the Norc barrel needs a Norc gas lock?
Needless to say, this is not my proudest moment. Will being a ham-fisted doofus make my d&ck fall off?
I've been putting the finishing touches on a Norc M14 that I took to Hungry's clinic in Calgary on the weekend. After plenty of help from Hungry and other folks in the clinic (and a 4 pound sledge with a cold chisel), I finally got my flash hider off. I tried the "180 degree" treatment to tighten up my gas lock. It was an improvement but not great. So I figured out which side of the gas lock would require the removal of the least amount of material and set to it with some 100 grit sandpaper on a nice flat bench.
Insert long pause because it took me a while. I stopped and test fit pretty frequently, knowing that I really didn't want to be taking too much off.
Once I got to where I thought I wanted to be (I would need a mallet to close it all the way) I figured that I was in good shape. I put the handguard back in place, rested the end of the gas cylinder up against a wood block, and gave it a few taps. And then a few more taps. And said to myself "This will be great....it'll be nice and tight!". And a few more thumps. (notice that these are no longer taps).

Long story short, my gas piston will now slide through my gas cylinder only when pushed through.
-If the piston is to the rear and I let the bolt slam forward as it would during normal operation, the op rod moves all the way forward and the bolt returns to battery.
-If I ride the cocking handle forward and control the op rod's movement so that it's slow, the op rod will not move all the way forward, and the bolt does not return to battery. It stops about half an inch shy of being in battery.
-The piston will no longer slide to the rear under gravity's pull. I need to pull out the gas plug and press firmly with a punch in order to get it to move to the rear.
My gut hunch is that I bent my gas cylinder by being too enthusiastic about having a tight gas system. Being a doofus, sometimes I end up learning things the hard way. I accept this.
Here are my questions:
-Am I correct in thinking that this level of "stiction" within the gas system is cause to replace my gas cylinder?
-Should I replace my piston too?
-If I need to replace the cylinder, will a USGI cylinder fit onto my Norc barrel, and with the Norc gas lock?
-Can I re-use the Norc spindle valve, or should I install a new valve/spring/pin?
-If I'm going to buy a new piston anyways, is there any mileage in buying the grooved Sadlak NM gas piston?
-Am I correct in thinking that the Norc gas lock is threaded differently than the USGI gas locks, and thus the Norc barrel needs a Norc gas lock?
Needless to say, this is not my proudest moment. Will being a ham-fisted doofus make my d&ck fall off?