The horrible Norinco AR trigger.

RRA 2 stage in all my guns...not overly expensive, clean and crisp, not too light to make it useless for action games, but decent enough for bench shooting as well. Brownell's ships with the end user form completed.
 
So whats the difference between the agl qms and act? There description seems identacal and were could one buy them?
 
I just hit the trigger on my DA556 with 2000 grit sandpaper....then polished it with my dremel.
Works alot better now.
Was super gritty as there were machine marks on it that it had to grate through.
 
Dirt cheap from Brownells as part of a LPK, sell off what you don't want.

QMS: has the sear contact surface precision-honed to smooth and lighten the pull to around 6½ lbs.

ACT: (ALG Combat Trigger) adds nickel-boron coating on the trigger and nickel-Teflon coating on the hammer, disconnnector, and pins to increase surface hardness and reduce friction, with an average pull weight of about 6 lbs.
 
rally guy said:
How would you compare it to the dd trigger as I have a ddm4v5 and my trigger sucks. Also were did you buy it? Its mark on brownells " no shipping outside the us"
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Maybe the Daniel Defense triggers vary a lot, but the three I've tasted have all been pretty brutal. As arcticcathonda says, Brownells sells the ALG ACT trigger as part of an LPK, for which shipping to Canada is available.

ArmsEast is apparently getting them in, too, for a great price, but I waited on them a while before I gave up and went Brown. Maybe they've arrived now.
 
firlake said:
I bought a Timney 3lb from http://www.mysticprecision.com/wp/ in BC for 240 to put in my Dominion Arms (same as Norinco) AR. Very nice , no detectable creep and breaks at 3lb 8 oz, very short reset. I like it slightly better than the JP trigger group I have in my STI. Yes small pin.
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I'll be giving mystic a call here soon too. Ive been debatig it for a while and feel its time to take the plunge into finishing my AR. Just too many projects goig on and its the start of gopher season.
 
I just put an RRA 2-stage in my norc (thanks for the other advice above). Easy install. I had to file a small burr from the safety so that it would reset properly. Otherwise it's perfect.

Got it out to shoot the same day and what a world of difference! Very short take up compared to other 2 stage military triggers that I'm used to. Clean break, positive reset.

Best upgrade that one can do.

Next I think I'll find a free-float tube to replace the stock quad rail to see if that improves the groups. I'm shooting from a bench and they really begin to open up as the barrel heats. and it heats fast!
 
I use the Rock River 2 stage. Cost about $110 in USA. I got the model with a 3.5 lb trigger. Love them. light and crisp.

I found I could take out the old trigger and install the new one without having to remove the safety. that makes it easy and fast.
 
I am just gonna shoot it until it settle, after 500 rounds i can all ready see an improvment, these rifles are whorth the deal stock, putting money in them i dont believe... Just saying... JP.
 
I understand your viewpoint, Caramel, but I reckon everything I put into this rifle can be swapped over to a better rifle down the road.

I'm beginning to understand the advantages of this modular business... :)
 
My thinking as well. I'm keeping all of the old parts so that I can "de-farkle" the thing at a later date if I wish to sell it.

The handguard is next. I'm thinking of the Hogue mid length tube with a 3" vented extension at the back, to give it some air flow. I like the look of the old school MGs with their sleeved barrels. This'll be close

Now, if someone could point me out to a source for a 608-style cone type flash hider, I'll get my retro on :)
 
Been struggling with my handguard. Got it off via the usual "three hands and profanity" method, but could not, even with tools, get it back on. It was like the spring was bound up, or the halves were suddenly a sixteenth of an inch too long. I'd like to go cheapmod and throw a magpul set on there, but I know it'll be a feckin' struggle to get it to go back on.

Anyone else been having the same issues?
 
Dark Alley Dan said:
Been struggling with my handguard. Got it off via the usual "three hands and profanity" method, but could not, even with tools, get it back on. It was like the spring was bound up, or the halves were suddenly a sixteenth of an inch too long. I'd like to go cheapmod and throw a magpul set on there, but I know it'll be a feckin' struggle to get it to go back on.

Anyone else been having the same issues?
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Thread drift, but yes, it's fairly common. There is a handguard removal tool for that reason. But a buddy with an extra hand or two is usually cheaper. Or an improvised tool can be made from channel lock pliers of appropriate dimensions.
 
Thread drift? Please forgive me. Gimme a minute to ask the OP if he's cool with it...

He says we're OK. Understanding fellow, that OP. Dresses well, too, and great with the ladies.

Tried both the "second set of hands" and the "improvised tool" methods - no joy. I'd like to avoid spending any money on a specialized tool, as I'm not likely to be throwing fresh handguards on every second week. Ended up hauling the upper over to Milarm, where they were most helpful. They must have bigger friends than I do...:) Got my Norinco corncobs back on with a modicum of bad language and brute force.

The question is, does Norinco make things somehow out of spec, thus making handguards a "file to fit" component?
 
LOL! Well, thread drift is not encouraged where I come from. And it is not up to the OP to grant permission to drift. But my comment was a disclaimer mostly about my post. And yet here I drift even further...

There could be tolerance stacking that is making your handguard install tougher than it should be. Mine merely required four hands and an improvised tool. I suspect that with the dedicated tool, you would have had zero problem getting it back on. As you said, it's not meant to be regularly removed. I don't expect to ever remove / re-install mine again.
 
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