I double check and I called. True the picture on part GAR-037 is a lower band but it's the wrong picture for the part on the schematic. I would need part GAR-036 wich is not in stock. Anyway I needed some accessories so I ordered from Brownells and Numrich. Shipping is expensive but hey gotta complet that rifle and their lower bands are brand new so are all my metal parts on my stock. Thank you for the input tho
The M1 Garand Build Thread
- Thread starter Don Kael
- Start date
I double check and I called. True the picture on part GAR-037 is a lower band but it's the wrong picture for the part on the schematic. I would need part GAR-036 wich is not in stock. Anyway I needed some accessories so I ordered from Brownells and Numrich. Shipping is expensive but hey gotta complet that rifle and their lower bands are brand new so are all my metal parts on my stock. Thank you for the input tho
Starting to feel I should get a commission from Sarco.Long as it's not an ITAR listed part no problem. You'll have to got to their international order desk, simple process.
http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/garand.aspx
I totally forgot about sarco, thank you They had everything I needed...After looking at their site I really hate myself...well learning from my mistake hahaha
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Just got my Garand build completed.
I've just got it back from the gunsmith, it was reparked and barrel was reamed and headspaced.
Breda receiver, new criterion barrel and new stock.
I got both original gas plug and schuster adjustable gas plug for it.
What ammo do you guys recommend?
It still has the original gas plug in it, but I can switch to the adjustable one any time.
I also plan to reload for it.
I tried to google, but while a few people say to stick with low/regular speed ammo and bullets from 150 to 175grs, other people share loads that are close to maximum when compared to Hodgdon reloading website. It's a bit confusing and contradicting.
Thanks for your help!!!
I've just got it back from the gunsmith, it was reparked and barrel was reamed and headspaced.
Breda receiver, new criterion barrel and new stock.
I got both original gas plug and schuster adjustable gas plug for it.
What ammo do you guys recommend?
It still has the original gas plug in it, but I can switch to the adjustable one any time.
I also plan to reload for it.
I tried to google, but while a few people say to stick with low/regular speed ammo and bullets from 150 to 175grs, other people share loads that are close to maximum when compared to Hodgdon reloading website. It's a bit confusing and contradicting.
Thanks for your help!!!
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No, my build is completed.
I want information about what commercial ammo is safe and dos and don't of reloading for the garand.
I want information about what commercial ammo is safe and dos and don't of reloading for the garand.
Canadian eh!
Regular
The Garand was built around mil spec 150 gr loads and powder timing to match the rifle. Stick close as possible to the military set up for reliability. There is room to stretch, but depending on what you are using your rifle for, you are better staying as close to the mil spec as possible.
RussellDyck
CGN Regular
- Location
- Lethbridge, AB
So far I have been using Hornady made ammo, they have a line of match grade ammo made up for the Garand using the Amax bullet, stuff shoots pretty good out of my M1. If you can find it it will probably cost a bit though.
There was one other ammo manufacturer that has Garand safe stuff, I think it was Federal but can't remember a 100% though.
At some point when I can get my reloading bench put back together I will start reloading as buying the factory made stuff does cost quite a bit, every time I pull the trigger I see dollar signs flying down range to the target board.
There was one other ammo manufacturer that has Garand safe stuff, I think it was Federal but can't remember a 100% though.
At some point when I can get my reloading bench put back together I will start reloading as buying the factory made stuff does cost quite a bit, every time I pull the trigger I see dollar signs flying down range to the target board.
OneBarfly
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
It will be short-chambered. You will need ream to final head space dims. I use a pull through chamber reamer (PTG) using a stripped bolt. Easy to do, but use the stripped bolt if you don't want to mess it up.
Several Pros around here to do that for you at a reasonable price and you'll know it's right.
Grizz
I've never polished the chamber after finish reaming. Make sure to use plenty of good cutting fluid while reaming, then clean the chamber and bore thoroughly to remove the chips and swarf. After confirming headspace with the go/no-go gauges the rifle is GTG. When reaming you need to work slowly and be sure not to force the reamer while it is cutting. Very light finger pressure on the bolt is all that's required (assuming that you are using a pull through reamer).
When used with the thrust bushing against the bolt face a pull through reamer will cut a chamber to "go" dimension, but it is always good practice to verify this with a "go" headspace gauge. Similarily, a "no-go" gauge should be used to verify correct headspace after the chamber has been finish reamed.
With all these questions , you obviously aren't equipped to do this yourself. Not making Chicken soup here.
Grizz
The big reason for verifying that the bolt will close on a "go" gauge is to ensure that it will close on a chambered round and avoid the possibility of an out of battery detonation. A bolt gun exerts a lot of camming power when the bolt is closed on a round. The Garand relies on the power of the op rod spring to close the bolt with a secondary assist from the hammer when it drops, so there is a lot less camming power in play when the bolt closes.
Some people like to see the headspace set a couple of thou over minimum to ensure that the bolt will close when the chamber is fouled by powder residue or to accommodate a slightly oversize case. At one time you could buy a headspace gauge set for the .30-06 which included gauges in .001 increments ranging from "go" dimension up to `field/reject`. These are still available for the 5.56 and .308 Win. Clymer can supply a precision ground custom thrust bushing to be used with their pull through reamer to cut the chamber a bit deeper than the standard dimension. Personally I`ve always found the standard Clymer finishing reamer and thrust bushing to be completely satisfactory. I only shoot MILSPEC ammo from a dwindling stash or handloads using FL sized cases.
Some people like to see the headspace set a couple of thou over minimum to ensure that the bolt will close when the chamber is fouled by powder residue or to accommodate a slightly oversize case. At one time you could buy a headspace gauge set for the .30-06 which included gauges in .001 increments ranging from "go" dimension up to `field/reject`. These are still available for the 5.56 and .308 Win. Clymer can supply a precision ground custom thrust bushing to be used with their pull through reamer to cut the chamber a bit deeper than the standard dimension. Personally I`ve always found the standard Clymer finishing reamer and thrust bushing to be completely satisfactory. I only shoot MILSPEC ammo from a dwindling stash or handloads using FL sized cases.
Sorry Purple I wasn't implying that that was your technique I was just making a general statement to those who want to try it out themselves who have never done it before.
Another point to add also is that different reamers can certainly give different results.
My PTG reamer actually rarely headspaces the same as a go gauge with the bushing they provided, I could order a shorter one but I'd still use the same technique so it works for me.
Another point to add also is that different reamers can certainly give different results.
My PTG reamer actually rarely headspaces the same as a go gauge with the bushing they provided, I could order a shorter one but I'd still use the same technique so it works for me.
