The M1 Garand Build Thread

I'm finding it's all the small separate parts that are really killing the value of this build. The rear sights, op rod, guide, gas tube, etc etc etc... all these parts are not cheap at all, and if you're trying to save a few dollars shopping around you're losing out on the shipping charges of buying everything from separate sources. We REALLY need barrels and parts kits up here.

Thanks Dirtytwo, added to the original post.
 
Guns, could you give me some measurements for the barrel vise and receiver wrench? I could probably pound a few out at work and ship them to CGN'ers.
 
I've been using the US CMP 2 pc barrel block and action wrench for Garand builds for the past 12 yrs or so. A barrel block to fit the barrel profile should not be too difficult to make. If push came to shove I suppose a large crescent wrench could be used as a Garand action wrench as you are only engaging two bearing surfaces on the receiver, the bottom and the top. You should always use something like business card stock (a cut to fit piece of cereal box works well here) to cover the bearing surfaces to avoid marring the finish with the wrench. The wrench needs to fit tightly so that it does not slip when torque is applied. The barrel block needs to be secured in a heavy duty vice on a solid bench to handle the torque and keep everything stationary as the receiver is turned on to top dead center. A lighter vice is liable to crack. I use a 12 ton floor mounted shop press, as sold by Princess Auto, to secure my barrel blocks. This type of shop press is made to handle a vertical load and needs to be reinforced with angle iron cross braces to take out the slop and handle the sideways torque load. This set up has worked great for many M1 Garand, M1 Carbine and M1903 Springfield barrel installs.

The Brownells action wrench is a good one. It has a universal handle portion with interchangeable heads to fit a variety of receivers, incl the Garand. Various lengths of steel pipe can be slipped over the wrench handle to get additional torque when timing up a barrel. Folks need to be careful about applying excessive torque when installing a barrel. Brownells barrel paste is a big help here. I will not try to install a new Garand barrel on a receiver if the initial hand tight position is greater than 25 degrees off vertical index. I've installed used barrels which were up to 35 deg off index in the starting position. With receivers being as cheap as they are at present you can try selective fit of a particular barrel on several receivers to identify a go/no-go install based on the initial hand tight position.

The Clymer front driven pull thru finishing reamer works very well for cutting the headspace in a new barrel. Make sure to put a light coat of grease on both sides of the thrust bushing. I use an ordinary T handle tap wrench to turn the reamer from the front. I cut flats on the end of the extension rod to be able to secure it in the tap wrench. This keeps the overall set-up under control while finish reaming as you can turn the reamer with one hand while keeping light thumb pressure on top of the bolt with the other.

Barrels need to be installed to zero index on the receiver for correct functionality (avoid op rod binding, have front sight vertical). This is done by comparing the 2 flats between the receiver sight ears and the top of the front sight lug on the gas cylinder (the gas cylinder less front sight is installed on the barrel while the barrel is being turned into index) to ensure that they are parallel. The gas cylinder must fit tightly on the barrel splines with no rotational movement. The edges of the splines on a used barrel may need to be lightly peened with a flat faced punch to achieve a tight fit. The best rig for this is made by Badger Ordnance. It features 2 aluminum blocks which are secured on the receiver between the rear sight ears and on the top of the gas cylinder to allow a comparison for parallelism. Both of the blocks have a groove cut in them to install a length of aluminum angle ( I use 30 inch pieces). The aluminum angles are then checked for parallelism as the barrel is turned into final index. I also cross check for parallelism with a dial type angle finder on top of the 2 angles. This is a quick and fool-proof method of installing a barrel in perfect index with the receiver.
 
Frost Cracked said:
I got mine in Friday. Was out, came home today and opened it up. Nicely packaged, and everything in very good condition. Some SLIGHT surface rust on a bit or two, but nothing unexpected on 60 year old parts.

That's it for me though, for the year. Can't budget room for any more parts...
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Would you be able to post pictures?
 
I managed to source most of the parts I need for my build. I was surprised at the number of ebay sellers/companies that won't deal with Canada. I also noticed in some cases in big red letters that they won't deal with Canadians. I would imagine they are getting a lot of requests lately from gunnuters asking:). Its too bad as parts are readily available from the US and in most cases at reasonable prices.
 
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I could trade the trigger frame for other garand parts as I bought a trigger assembly.
 
fenceline said:
Numrich has op rods. SA marked. They are there, people keep missing them.
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I bought a Numrich SA rod last week, I'll let you guys know what comes in. Numrich's site says they all gauge at least .525" and are in good serviceable condition, but I've been disappointed by them before. We shall see. Hopefully the tabs are not worn out.
 
Don Kael said:
As of right now, the best places to get Garand parts are Marstar and Numrich (gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/USMilitary-33541/Rifles-42386/M1Garand-40101/PartsList-37106.htm). If ordering from Numrich, keep in mind the US Export restrictions:
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To add to the list, Northridge International will also ship M1 parts to Canada, they have almost everything except wood and op rods. A little pricier than Numrich, but they have stuff Numrich does not have, and a high percentage of their parts are Italian made or new in wrap.

The primary places I source M1 parts are:

- Marstar for receiver internals, sights, and all other miscellaneous small parts.
- CGN EE for the clip latch assembly, bolt, gas cylinder and barrel.
- Numrich for trigger group, op rod and operating rod spring (Numrich caps Canadian at $1000 per order, used to be $100. Luckily it's been upped.)
- Northridge International for stock metal and .308 spacer block (I went 7.62 NATO for this build). Northridge caps at $100 per parcel to Canada, and Canadians have to order by phone.
- Brownells for a complete Boyd's set of unfinished wood (they limit you to $100, I have a dealer account with them, so it came in just under $100)

As a side note, I get a lot of my parts for less than most of you will since I have business accounts with some suppliers, and I still can't build one from parts cheaper than the typical current EE price of a complete rifle. But I like building rifles, so I consider the entertainment value to be worth the effort. By contrast, I bought a complete SA garand with a nice bore for $1100 last month. That would be a better deal than a build after all the shipping and importation costs.

Food for thought.
 
Is anyone in Greater Van planning on ordering from Numrich soon?
Can I piggyback a stock on your order?
This is not a Group Buy, as I am not the one collecting money. Instead, I am offering to pay out upfront.
 
tootall said:
Is anyone in Greater Van planning on ordering from Numrich soon?
Can I piggyback a stock on your order?
This is not a Group Buy, as I am not the one collecting money. Instead, I am offering to pay out upfront.
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Im in surrey and I bought two receivers. I am waiting to see some more pics of the parts people are getting from numrich. I might order in a few weeks.
 
@ridgearms:

Given the crap shoot that is numrich, expect to have to have the parts re-parkerized when you do your build. If it turns out not to be required, bonus.
 
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