The Most Dangerous Game

I have a CZ 557 Carbine in .308. Believe me, you are good to go.
Get proficient with it. Shoot at least a hundred rounds over the year before your next hunt.
 
I was drawn this year (2018), Antlered Mule Deer draw this year in South Eastern Alberta, I choose to take two of my favorite big game hunting rifles.
Winchester XTR model 70, featherlite, WinCam 30.06, Nikon 4-16 BDC scope.
Rem 700, XCR II, 300 win mag , Magpul Hunter stock, Trijicon 4-16x AccuPower scope.

This was a week long hunt near the end of November, lots of glassing , walking up and down ravines , and truck hunting....
Both rifles are tact drivers... but kept grabbing my 30.06 featherlite, just because of the weight difference....

If I had to do it all over again,... buy a light weight, quality $$$, 300 win mag. and buy a high quality scope !

Cheers
 
Well I finally pulled the trigger on a CZ 557 Range/Ranger in .308. Found a decent deal and went for it. Now the begins the arduous task of selecting a scope f:P: Been eyeing Nikon and their first focal plane scopes (prostaff/monarch). Seems like good optics for the price (research ongoing though).

Thanks to everyone for the tips and support :d

When seeking out a scope for your rifle, first consider what the advantage of scoping your rifle is. The primary advantage is that the target and aiming point are on the same focal plane, and both are in simultaneous focus, whereas with open sights, the eye must switch focus between the rear sight, front sight, and target, since each is at a different distance from the eye. When the shot is made, the eye focuses intently on the front sight, and both the rear sight and target blur. When sighting with the scope everything within the image appears to be in crisp and clear focus.

"But what about magnification?" you ask? "Clearly magnification is the real benefit of the telescope sight!!" Well not really, or we'd all be mounting 36X glass. Think of this problem in terms of detail and context. Magnification provides detail, but field of view provides context. If your magnification is high, and all you see in your scope is a patch of hide, you lack the context to know whether your shot would be effective. On the other hand, if your magnification is so low that you cannot see your target, in the open or through an opening in the branches, neither are you likely to succeed. Thus the variable power scope provides the answer to both problems if an appropriate power range is chosen, but for a scope mounted on a big game rifle that is used to shoot across typical ranges, as you've identified, the low end power tends to be more important that the high end. A very close shot, say 5 yards, is easiest with 1X-1.5X magnification, and 2X is doable, but anything over 3X becomes a problem. Yet with a 2X scout scope I did some very credible shooting at a quarter mile with my .375, certainly better than was required to make an effective hit on a big game animal. I think for the circumstances you describe, a 1.5-5X, a 1.75-6X or a 2-7X are all viable choices. Many hunters believe a 3-9X offers the correct balance of magnification to field of view, but I disagree, since 3X has such a limited field of view when ranges are very short.

I haven't bought a brand new scope in so long I can't recall the last time. Even my big dollar Schmidt and Bender was purchased used; the saving was significant, and the adjustments remained true and repeatable. IMHO, the best bang for the buck is a gently used VariX II or III Leupold. Buy the scope, then send it to get checked pout by Korth Group which will cost no more than postage to Okotoks, AB, since Leupold's lifetime warranty extends beyond the original purchaser. If the scope needs adjustment, they will get it back in shape and return it to you, usually within a short time period. You can also have the reticle or turrets changed, and the cost isn't outrageous.

Don't skimp on scope mounts that will attach to the factory rail on your rifle. You can expect to pay about $50 for good rings, but you don't need $200 rings. The exception to low cost rings are the inexpensive Weaver rings made from spring steel. These are good rings which have a quick detachable component to them as well via the large windage screws, but Weaver rings are notorious for rolling the scope as the rings are tightened, since they only tighten from one side, which makes orienting the scope vertically more challenging than with rings which hold the scope in the cradle of the lower half, while the top half is tightened straight down, with rings screws located on either side of the ring cap.

Don't make the mistake of mounting the scope too far rearward, or you could get a cut when the rifle recoils. An old rule of thumb is that the ocular of the scope extends no further rearward than the bow of the trigger guard. If the scope is mounted too far forward, the problem is less serious, in that you might not be able to take advantage of the full range of magnification, since, as a rule, eye relief is reduced as magnification increases.
 
If I had to do it all over again,... buy a light weight, quality $$$, 300 win mag. and buy a high quality scope !
Cheers
A .300 winmag is already on the wish list, but it's not a necessity for now. The cz 557 is somewhat heavy but it shouldn't be a problem on my type of hunt. Time will tell though.


Great tips Boomer. Got a Nikon Monarch 3-12 FFP to play with for now, should fit the bill for the shooting I'll do. Looking at rings now and I like the idea of quick detach, could be useful if I want to swap to iron sights on the fly. Also looking at New England Custom Gun Service and their peep sights, might be fun.
 
A .300 winmag is already on the wish list, but it's not a necessity for now. The cz 557 is somewhat heavy but it shouldn't be a problem on my type of hunt. Time will tell though.


Great tips Boomer. Got a Nikon Monarch 3-12 FFP to play with for now, should fit the bill for the shooting I'll do. Looking at rings now and I like the idea of quick detach, could be useful if I want to swap to iron sights on the fly. Also looking at New England Custom Gun Service and their peep sights, might be fun.

FFire I'm running a 2-7 x 33 Leupold VX-R on my 557. Per Boomers advice above it is an excellent fit. It is mounted in a set of Talley quick detach sourced from Prophet River. (pricey but high quality and it's a cry once scenario). The NECG peep sight will require the removal of the rear blade sight for clear view. Personally I'd use the factory irons as is. Mine are dead on at 50 yards. Just my $0.02 and hope it helps.
 
W79qyGR.jpg


Rifle came in the mail today so I was able to finally play around with it. Verdict: I love it! :)

FFire I'm running a 2-7 x 33 Leupold VX-R on my 557. Per Boomers advice above it is an excellent fit. It is mounted in a set of Talley quick detach sourced from Prophet River. (pricey but high quality and it's a cry once scenario). The NECG peep sight will require the removal of the rear blade sight for clear view. Personally I'd use the factory irons as is. Mine are dead on at 50 yards. Just my $0.02 and hope it helps.

Been researching a bit and I think I might go with some Warne quick detach ring. Wrote to the guys at Warne to get some advice on ring height and they were very helpful ( they suggested some "high" rings/202LM 0.525''). Did some tests with some putty and a feeler gauge and sure enough 0.525'' is adequate so the bolt slide freely and ensure I can adjust eye relief while clearing the rear sight. I tried 0.375'' and it was VERY tight in relation to the bolt throw and the bell hits the rear sight if I try to add a bit more eye relief. I'm mounting the scope on theweaver rail btw.

As for the factory irons I like them very much, can't wait to try them out at the "range". I wasn't sure about the slot in the weaver rail but I like how it works and it might even help accuracy while using irons. No need for a peep sight (for now).
 
While it is important that the bolt cycles freely, without obstruction, the critical factor concerning ring height is a repeatable cheek weld. I have one rifle with a low comb, and by necessity high-ish rings, making repeat shots with that rifle slow, as I struggle to get behind the scope the same way for each subsequent shot. My chin doesn't wobble on the top of the comb, but its nearly that bad. Conversely, the high comb on my .375 Ultra is high, intended for scope use, and my cheek must be mashed down on the comb in order to acquire a sight picture when I'm shooting with irons; to call the recoil impulse unpleasant doesn't do it justice. My other rifles, from .223 to .458 have scopes that are an compatible with the height of the comb, thus target acquisition, sighting, shooting and repeat shots can be made quickly and accurately.

When I have conflict between mounting the scope, and a barrel mounted rear sight, I simply remove the rear sight. The scope is the primary sighting instrument, since it allows for the best view of the target under all light conditions, and the most precise aiming, so mounting the scope too high, or too far rearward, to accommodate a barrel mounted sight, is not beneficial. I would index the rear sight position, perhaps with a stamped line that marked both the sight and it's base, and could be later used to return the rear sight to zero when it was reinstalled.

 
Before you decide what rifle and calibre make sure if you are shooting it a lot check ammo prices. Some of the prices with scare you into getting a different rifle.
For example I priced ammo at CTC for 30-30 $37/20, 308 $33/20 and 30-06 $29.79/20. My .270 is $36/20 BUT MY 5.56/.223 ammo is like $ 329/1,000.
 
"The Most Dangerous Game" made me think of the 1930's movie by that name. To Count Zaroff, the most dangerous game was hunting humans!:runaway:

I also thought about that movie and its connection to the Zodiac killer.

As for rifle, 30.06 is good choice, Leupold scope and almost any of the rifles mentioned above, bot .308 and CZ wil be fine.
 
Back
Top Bottom