The new 1000 yard toy is home. HAS BEEN SHOT

tigrr said:
The same eye candy in a shiloh is 900 bucks more and a 18 month wait. Go to shooter choice website S795 45/70 model. + PED-USA 406 soule 4" sights.
BP shoots? Depends if I get it to shoot or not. I have the material for 4 full size buffalo. I may have my own 400-600-800 and 1000 yard BP buffalo shoot. Its all depending on my future location.
Click to expand...

I have bought 2 Shiloh's right off the inventory page on their website.
Last I looked there was 10 available, but often just 1 or 2 for sale.
Tigrr is correct that it could be a 18 month wait for a custom order.

Your gun will shoot.
I would suggest following a fairly well laid trail in the quest of accuracy with these BP guns.
The design has been around for 140 years.

In BPCR the rams are basically the size of a trash can lid, and are shot at 500m.
With open sites, laying down, with the barrel resting on shooting sticks.
I was able to nock down 9 out of 10, in my 1st year competing. Then try to do it a 2nd time.
With a minor wind change, slight change in light and add some mirage... Lucky to get 4 out of 10.

I know a good guy with a Shiloh rifle who won a BPCR state championship this year.
The barrel has over 80000 rounds throught it.
His standard win brass has over 10000 rounds. Low pressure Black Powder.

Nioce photos.
Enjoy the new rifle.
 
Venturing into the black powder world.
Drop tubes, wads, lube cookies, vibrating case, compression, bullet lube and thats just scratching the surface.
Powder choice right now is Swiss 1 1/2fg, 70 grains to start.
.05 and .017 wads. Using 1 .017 wad under bullet.
500 grain bullet.
tapping case 20X to get powder to settle 1/2 inch for bullet seating. .11 powder compression.
Will look around for a drop tube later today.
Need bp bullet lube and a blow tube for after shot softening.
What else?
 
you can make your own lube from a 50/ 50 mix of lard and beeswax. You want something that is soft like baby poo. Drop tubes can be made from copper tubing with the ends flared out or on the top an adaptor soldered on that takes you from a small size to a larger size of copper pipe. Would suggest Paul Mathews book The Paper Jacket

cheers mooncoon
 
I bought a pedersoli sharps long range in 45 70 with a 34" barrel last week. It is surprising heavy. I need the tang site though.
Can't wait to try it out.
 
When in a pinch for BP bullet lube I have used olive oil and beeswax with good results... You just have to guess and test to get the correct "baby poo" consistancy that Mooncoon refers to....

I made my own blowtube out of a piece of 1/2 inch copper tube soft solder to the base of a drilled out 45-70 case...

As for the loading process you must only cast bullets on a half moon and the loading can only be accomplished on a full moon...
 
I use 50/50 beeswax & olive oil exclusively simply because it's what I have on hand and also since it works; hasn't let me down yet. Note the type of beeswax you use makes a difference. The more pure you can get, the better or so my experience has gone. YMMV

Lots of mixtures work very well (Mooncoon and others have their own recipes and I couldn't count the variety on both hands) :)

I pan lube them, but no reason you can't smear them either. Pan lubing (for me) allows me to lube in mass production so to speak.
 
So after pan lubing do you cut them out or pull them out and wipe off excess?
Droptubes I have many options.
Just mixing up a batch of 50/40/5/5 lube. 50beewax/40cornoil/5pure lanolin/5secret ingredient. Its what I have handy right now. You know how bad I want to finally shoot this toy. Bad!!
Cleaning off bottom of bullets. :dancingbanana:

So first try lube was too soft and didn't want to stay on in the 80 degree reloading room(near woodstove!!) Added some paraffin too harden it up a bit. Added too much. Added baby oil to soften it and its good now. What a mess, going to have the softest hands in Peace River after this what with the pure lanolin, bees wax and baby oils. Except they smell sheepishly funny. It don't wash off either. Pure lanolin, harvested sheep oil sweat. Boiled down. yummm
This friday suppose to be -3 good day for testing.
 
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I take an unsized case and use that to cut out the bullet.

Do it while the lube is soft (warm) but not too warm (sometimes the lube pulls off) or too cold (gets real tricky). I usually let it stand about five minutes.

Case gets REAL slippery, so I like to drill out the back of it and use a push stick to knock 'em out. Lube 95% of the time stays right where you want it as long as the temp is right. Leaving the rim on a rimmed case gives you something to hang on to.

Hope that helps. I have some photos I can put up, thought about doing a little tutorial on it for someone who was asking the same thing a while back but he seemed to have it under control

Good luck
 
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When I was getting ready to set them in the pan I discovered that placing a cool bullet into the mixture it put a nice even layer on the bullet up to the top groove. So I just kept dipping the bullets in and letting them cool on a wax sheet on a steel tray. Then after complete cooling I knocked of the flange of wax on the bottom. Back into the pot went the flange. I had the 4 oz of lube in a sockeye salmon can on the woodstove to warm it and them removed it and let it cool a bit. Then started to do the dipping. Funny smelling hands!! Pure lanolin!!
How many weigh the powder charge and how many just go by volume? I'm curious.
 
I recall a slightly different technique for pan lubing that I have not tried myself... You stand all of your bullets nose up in the pan and then pour your liquified heated lube in until the level is just above the top lube groove... Place the tray in the freezer until the lube is good and solid... Remove the tray and knock the whole "cake" out of the pan, then simply push the bullets out of the lube and they should be good to go...

I go by volume, then get an average charge weight on the scale... Then all of my dipped charges are weighted and adjusted accordingly then drop tubed in the case...
 
ckid said:
I recall a slightly different technique for pan lubing that I have not tried myself... You stand all of your bullets nose up in the pan and then pour your liquified heated lube in until the level is just above the top lube groove... Place the tray in the freezer until the lube is good and solid... Remove the tray and knock the whole "cake" out of the pan, then simply push the bullets out of the lube and they should be good to go...

I go by volume, then get an average charge weight on the scale... Then all of my dipped charges are weighted and adjusted accordingly then drop tubed in the case...
Click to expand...

I've heard of using the freezer but haven't tried it. I get stuck in one method easily...I will try that next time round.
 
Just got confirmation on 20 lbs of Bees wax, @ $3.50 a pound. Woohoo no more $28 a pound stuff from Micheals. Hope $3.50 a Lb is a good price. It will be the base for many different bullet lubes. I have 15 lbs of paraffin wax for making other lubes. Hands still have a faint smell of the pure lanolin!! It don't wash off easily.
Buying some olive oil Thusday.
 
:dancingbanana::dancingbanana::dancingbanana:
Finally got out to shoot the new toy. Yup I'm a convert. Hit the 500 with the last shot. The others went over into the trees.
Proof:


So I have found a recipe that seems to work and chamber OK.
500gr bullet, 3.7cc of 1 1/2 swiss powder(62.9grains) down a 24 inch drop tube, a .017 wad and a .030 wad. This puts about .11 compression/compaction on the powder.
The bullet lube is 50% bees wax and 50% (baby oil/corn oil/pure lanolin/red crayon and a dash of alox) No leading at all.
Cleaned up easily with windex and water. 6 patches and your done.
I need to cast some more bullets, argh!
Will likely load up some bp loads for the other 45/70's that I own now!!
PURE FUN
 
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