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Just awff the tawp me tete, but the A-5 has a spring in the rear of the action buried
inside the rear stock.
Pull the rear stock and check this spring.
Not sure if the resemblance is the same on these two shawtguns.
The rivet stud and buffer are GONE. Somebody must have removed the broken one just cleaned up the after math. A new buffer can be epoxied in no problem.
They can be made. I don't know the dimension unfortunately. They do look just like the area they nestle into sort of a "5th wheel" appearance. My old "Gunsmith Kinks" book tells of a gunsmith who cut and fit a piece of brake lining as a buffer. The book is 40 years old and I doubt brake lining is even made of the same stuff anymore. I think a buffer made to the right dimension from a nylon cutting board material would be just fine.
After some research I found that the buffer can be made from the side wall of a bike tire and Gorilla glue will cure with enough flex to absorb the impact of the bolt. If the friction rings are set properly there should be no contact of the bolt and receiver. BUT some shooters will set "light" and shoot "heavy" and that is the purpose of the buffer to prevent bolt cracks under these circumstances. Gorilla glue requires heavy clamping pressure to cure right so set up some sort of jig to deliver the pressure while it cures.
That will work well. Remember your load settings. Several "experts" warn against continual use of 1 1/2oz. magnum loads in the old Model 11. I have to agree but that goes for any gun that old. Easier on you and the shotgun. When I was shooting my recoil operated Model 11 and browning Auto 5's I just picked a load and stuck with it. Saved a lot of grief trying to remember how the frictions rings were set.
I only plan on shooting 1oz - 7.5 birdshot (1180 fps) on occasion with this Model 11. And it has to be set on the easiest setting as I've found that to be the only setting that will cycle them.