I recently needed to do some light Bubba dremel work (Bubba+Dremel= Match made in gun hell) on a set of weaver bases to lower the center of the bases so I could see the rear sight when the quick detach rings were off. Naturally, the bright, recently ground Aluminum needed to be fixed. Tried a sharpie but found that smoking the bases with a lighter worked much better. Not a permanent fix but more durable and blacker than the sharpie.
The Sins of Bubba
- Thread starter conor_90
- Start date
I recently needed to do some light Bubba dremel work (Bubba+Dremel= Match made in gun hell) on a set of weaver bases to lower the center of the bases so I could see the rear sight when the quick detach rings were off. Naturally, the bright, recently ground Aluminum needed to be fixed. Tried a sharpie but found that smoking the bases with a lighter worked much better. Not a permanent fix but more durable and blacker than the sharpie.
IF the front sight bubba installed is a decent sight, and worth keeping, its bottom could be cleaned up and a thin piece of steel soldered to it. The male dovetail could then be carefully filed to fit the dovetail. Touched up, it won't show.
If the sight needs to be replaced, clean up the dovetail, and fit a new sight to it.
There is no reason to get heavy handed with the ramp. Do the necessary work on the sight, not the base.
Incidentally, the rear sight installed on the rifle is a classic.
I acquired a Stevens 44 with a filed over front sight. Replaced it with a Lyman aperture style, in keeping with the tang sight I fitted. The Stevens factory dovetail in the barrel was larger than the Lyman dovetail. I used a safe sided 3 square file to clean up one edge of the dovetail and the base, then soldered in a little slip of steel, which I filed to finish. Installed the sight. You have to look really closely to tell that that front sight has been altered in any way.
As a general rule, alter the minor removable part, not a permanent part of the rifle.
If the sight needs to be replaced, clean up the dovetail, and fit a new sight to it.
There is no reason to get heavy handed with the ramp. Do the necessary work on the sight, not the base.
Incidentally, the rear sight installed on the rifle is a classic.
I acquired a Stevens 44 with a filed over front sight. Replaced it with a Lyman aperture style, in keeping with the tang sight I fitted. The Stevens factory dovetail in the barrel was larger than the Lyman dovetail. I used a safe sided 3 square file to clean up one edge of the dovetail and the base, then soldered in a little slip of steel, which I filed to finish. Installed the sight. You have to look really closely to tell that that front sight has been altered in any way.
As a general rule, alter the minor removable part, not a permanent part of the rifle.
Yes, it is very, very cool. I love the swinging aperture and ease of adjustment. Suther will be happy to know that it does windage.
The barrel mounted rear sight is pretty neat too.
But yes, this thread is largely tongue in cheek. I have my temporary solution to confirm the sight is the correct height. It will go to a competent smith for an actual repair once this is established.
I'm grateful to the community for the humor, good advice and help in finding an easy to remove temporary solution
P
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Iirc you can buy a product to “blacken” aluminum, I have a similar product for brass. One is a blackening liquid and the other is a brass patina, I bought them years ago from a jewelry supply shop called Lacey in Toronto.
Found it.
https://jaxchemical.com/shop/jax-aluminum-blackener/
Same gun, same chambering. It has certainly seen some use but seems to be in good condition. Bore is getting a good cleanse right now with Wipeout patch out, but I'm probably going to take a nylon brush to it soon with some hoppes
Pretty fouled but should clean out fine for the age
Pretty amazing how well made these guns are. Not to mention it may be the best balanced rifle I've ever handled
