the truth about steel sizes and speed and meat damage on geese.not including other sh

[3macs1]

looking for browning gold 10 gauge choke full .have been there live close in markham.thanks for offer check them every week .called kicks there imposible to order through and ive heard of guys ordering through THERE WEB SITE MONTHS AND NOTHING

Why do you want a full for a browning gold and steel shot and geese
Did you ever pattern that gold??
I have two in 10ga and both will kill cleanly with Briley IM in the 40-50 yard range you state
Problem I have is under 20 they get gutted in the air
Do you mix you rounds up when hunting over decoys. Like example may be BB for the 1st shot, then BBB then TT
Both of my golds shot high and way to the right when new and I had to shim both but would not even know that with out patterning
Plus I reloaded 15 different loads 7 shells of each and now only do three. The ones that work the best in my guns
Only thing I use full for is no. 4 buck lead and coyotes in the 10ga
Cheers

 

[Spcamno]

If you want the holy grail of 10 ga tight tubes buy a .720 terror tube. Should be able to get them off the wad wizard web site

X2 Jeff will send to Canada without any problem bought a few from him before including 2 0.720 for my gold light 10 its deadly for geese (50 yards and beyond).

 

[the spank]

Well I have been duped and feel a little stupid for it. I will no longer repeat any of these claims to others and I am going back to my fixed Improved Cylinder and the good old Poly Choke. Gimmick or not the Pattern Master does reach out there and the tightest buck shot patterns I ever saw was through a Pattern Master (off topic not waterfowl related but an observation.)

Darryl

Tom Roster does state finding the brand of choke/ammo/load combination that yields your best results is a simple matter of trying different combinations and that he is not saying that brand "x" is not going to work, in fact you may get the best patterns and results you have ever had in your gun but what he does state emphatically is that after thousands of tests trying to film the claims that a choke has the ability to slow a wad down long enough to strip it from a shot column and shorten a shot string they have not been able to prove through slow motion photography. He has never captured one instance of a wad stripped from the shot column upon exiting the muzzle and that when asking these manufacturers to provide proof of said claims he has received no responses or replies and if they will send him proof of their claims he will print a retraction and apologize plus print their proof and endorse their claims.

 

[The Baron]

I won't get into the shot size/choke debate because it never ends and is as much about shooting skill than those details anyway. Best advise is just pick an appropriate shot size for your game, choke it as tight as you can consistently hit with, put a few on the patterning board to make sure things look OK and then shoot lots of that same combination. After several flats of shells you'll be competent and after a few dozen more flats you'll be good - maybe great if you have the gene.

BUT, if we're discussing killing "geese" and one guy is talking about shooting big Canadas and another is talking about snows then it's an apples and oranges discussion. Canadas can soak up an unbelievable amount of abuse outside their vitals and, assuming their wings aren't broken, fly away to die elsewhere; whereas I find snows come down easily with even a couple small shot hits anywhere north of their anus. Even the small Canadas are tougher than their similar sized white cousins. I've only shot a couple hundred snows myself and seen maybe a thousand more come down but I've shot at least a thousand Canada's personally and seen many thousand more come down... or not. I can't shoot like I used to because I don't do it much anymore, but my go to load was 1 3/8oz. of steel #1 through a Wad Wizard Supreme and I had no problem killing Canada's consistency out to 45-50 when I had to and many a lot further than that when finishing off bids leaving with a leg or two down after the swing-stoppers emptied their guns. LOL.

 

[the spank]

I won't get into the shot size/choke debate because it never ends and is as much about shooting skill than those details anyway. Best advise is just pick an appropriate shot size for your game, choke it as tight as you can consistently hit with, put a few on the patterning board to make sure things look OK and then shoot lots of that same combination. After several flats of shells you'll be competent and after a few dozen more flats you'll be good - maybe great if you have the gene.

BUT, if we're discussing killing "geese" and one guy is talking about shooting big Canadas and another is talking about snows then it's an apples and oranges discussion. Canadas can soak up an unbelievable amount of abuse outside their vitals and, assuming their wings aren't broken, fly away to die elsewhere; whereas I find snows come down easily with even a couple small shot hits anywhere north of their anus. Even the small Canadas are tougher than their similar sized white cousins. I've only shot a couple hundred snows myself and seen maybe a thousand more come down but I've shot at least a thousand Canada's personally and seen many thousand more come down... or not. I can't shoot like I used to because I don't do it much anymore, but my go to load was 1 3/8oz. of steel #1 through a Wad Wizard Supreme and I had no problem killing Canada's consistency out to 45-50 when I had to and many a lot further than that when finishing off bids leaving with a leg or two down after the swing-stoppers emptied their guns. LOL.

^^^100%