Things you should or should not do with Antique Firearms

DANCESWITHEMPTIES

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Got to thinking today there should be a thread about proper handling of antique firearms. Either in general or specific to some types & models. I'm not talking about topics like whether to restore or modify. But things like:

-Never let a hammer fall on an empty cylinder or nipple of a percussion gun.
-Always fully #### the hammer of a Colt single action the full four clicks before slowly bringing the hammer back down on the frame.
-Always use the cocking trigger on a Starr 1858 double action revolver to #### the hammer. Not the hammer spur.


I realize this maybe old news to a lot of experienced guys. But this kind of information could save a new guy some grief with their newly acquired gem. This would also apply to care & maintenance as well. Maybe it could be worthy of a sticky if the input could stay informative and used as a resource to future acquisitions.
 
Load one, skip one, load four more, then pull hammer to full #### and set down onto an empty sixth...

Safe loading procedure for Colt single actions. 5 in the wheel with the hammer down on the empty one.
 
I think for guys...like ME! That this would be a great sticky! Less chance of damaging your new to you....that’s been around for over a 100 years..not really replacable if broken parts....kinda way. Two thumbs up. Cheers.
B
 
I think a good one would be not to assume a nipple thread is a modern pitch and diameter. I think it is not uncommon for people to try screwing in a series of nipples until they find one which will fill up the hole. Common modern North American nipples are 1/4 x 28 while on original British guns the pitch is usually 26 per inch and diameters are variable. Bottom line is to mike the original nipple you removed and use a thread guage to get the pitch. Keep in mind it is possible to screw an undersize thread into an odd pitched hole

cheers mooncoon
 
Don't go out in the bush shooting your antique revolver, and if meeting up with a CO or LEO, expect him to know the legality of it.
 
Dry fire a flintlock without a flint installed (with the frizzed closed)

The top jaw screw can be bent or snapped, and the #### can be broken as well. This can happen if the lock is snapped with the frizzen open.
In the photo, the top of the frizzen is chipped probably by being struck by the top jaw or top jaw screw when snapped without a flint. The top jaw and screw are replacements, probably because the top jaw screw was broken.

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Just because a cartridge fits in does not mean it is the right cartridge; or a safe load. Measure, verify, research. The chamber isn't necessarily what is marked on the outside.
 
Just because a cartridge fits in does not mean it is the right cartridge; or a safe load. Measure, verify, research. The chamber isn't necessarily what is marked on the outside.


This, plus I would add that when reloading for any antique; start with slugging the bore so you know what you are really working with.
 
Don't open a very early hammer double with the hammers down in the fired position. Many have non rebounding locks and the hammers will still be pressing the firing pins in to the max. The firing pins can stick in the primer and can even have the nose broken off.
 
Do not fire 32 SW Long in an 1892 French revolver.
Do not fire factory 45 ACP in a shaved Webley (still needs to be said)
When in doubt, play it safe
Don’t trust your life to an antique
Sell it in the same or better condition than you acquire it
 
Don't use Pyrodex in antiques as its corrosive much more than real black powder and will get into any small pits and make them grow even with good cleaning .
 
When removing the lock from a back-action lock firearm always pull the hammer to half-#### before you remove the lock. The wood at the top of your lock mortise will thank you.


With muzzle loaders NEVER blow down the barrel between shots to "extinguish embers". I you are worried about embers swab the bore between shots.
 
I think it is a good idea to place all locks on half #### before attempting removal.

Generally speaking, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it. Lots of resources out there. Ask.

A vicegrip is not a substitute for a mainspring clamp.
 
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