Thinking of buying a press - few reloading questions!

Thanks for all the inputs.

I probably am not going to be after any of those Dillon ones, as cool as they are I really don't shoot enough to warrant that sort of thing. Even the 9mm I will probably just keep buying as I only plink with them.

The 30-06 and even more so the .308 is what I shoot the most and even at that I usually put less than 40-80 rounds down range on a given trip to the range. I was more so hoping to be able to get a similar quality that you'd find in a 40-50 dollar box of .308 for cheaper as even shooting 40 or 60 rounds of that is an expensive day.

The reason I was considering the lee is it is cost effective and doesn't seem as tedious as the single-stage presses.

I thought the same until the cost / availability of 'quality' ammo became non-existent. The tipping point for me was I used some high quality loads in my heavy barrelled Tikka T3 308 and saw the group size differences. Basically I was left with the decision, chuck lead (and money up range) and call it plinking, or, get a reloading set up and make my own ammo as best as I could. I went the Dillon 550 route and have never looked back. Another advantage is that I shoot 300 AAC Blackout, which I could never afford if I went the pre-rolled diet only.

Like most hobbies, you have a financial outlay first, and then a running cost. I pick up brass from wherever I go. I went on a course a couple of years ago, and there was tonnes of premium brass left on the ground. I stayed an extra hour, tidied the place up and scavenged 3000 rounds of nice brass. Enough to keep me going for a very long while. Cost zero. Go to gun fairs / big box sales / EE / key providers on this forum to buy the rest. Really inexpensive, even if you are just plinking.:)

Candocad.
 
I thought the same until the cost / availability of 'quality' ammo became non-existent. The tipping point for me was I used some high quality loads in my heavy barrelled Tikka T3 308 and saw the group size differences. Basically I was left with the decision, chuck lead (and money up range) and call it plinking, or, get a reloading set up and make my own ammo as best as I could.

This is exactly the point I was trying to make. One perfect batch of bughole producing ammo and you'll be much less concerned with pinching every penny for your loads.

40-80rd visits with rifles - start on a single stage, learn the craft and enjoy the superior results.
 
Buy a single stage press to start out. I went for a lot of years and a pile of venison and dead gophers, on a cheesy Lyman hand style press that would make the average Lee pot metal press look pretty spiffy by comparison. It worked fine, though. I bought a Lee Classic Cast single stage press when I saw a deal on one, and like it. Depends on what color you like. They all pretty much work.
If you feel the need to step upwards to a turret or progressive press to speed things up, it's a bit of a price jump. Best done when needed.

Pretty easy to pound out a couple hundred rounds at a sitting. Batch processing brass takes some of the tedium out, most of the processing is either really quick, or brain dead and can be done while watching TV off the side or such.
I do not like interruptions/distractions while filling cases with powder, as it is well worth paying close attention there, but almost everything else can be done in fits and starts as needed.

Buy a set of Lee scoops. Practice scooping and weigh the results. It's pretty easy to load good working ammo for stuff like pistol cartridges, pretty quickly, when you are not really concerned about picking a single grain of powder off the scale to get the loads dead nuts perfect. Weigh a couple scoops every so many rounds if you figure you must, but I just run with it, shine a flashlight down the necks of the batch to see that they are all same height, and carry on. Handy for placing a charge on the scale too. Cheap!

Costs per round. Work it out based on your expenses. Primers @ $/100, powder at $/per pound, which is 7000 grains of powder, bullets at whatever price you pay, where you are. Prices vary around the country, depend on the volume you buy, and when you bought the stuff. Me telling you I reload for a couple cents each isn't useful info if I am using up supplies I bought ten years ago, if you get my meaning.
 
If it were me, I'd continue to buy 9mm as the savings aren't there in reloading.
I'd buy a single stage press, something in a nice shade of green, and load for the rifles. Then you'll have an option of low cost rounds, or high quality rounds, not both.

Re-loading and or hand loading, won't save you money. If you can break even, it's a good secondary hobby.

I think what you meant to say is that the savings isn't there for you. I reload to save money and all I load is 9mm. I saved enough to pay for my setup (Dillon 650 w/ casefeeder and all the accessories (wet tumbler, scale, dies etc.) in approximately 1 year.

To the OP: Everyone's shooting habits are different, choose a press based on volume (e.g. 15K 9mm per year = progressive press). It sounds like a turret press might be the right choice in your circumstance.
 
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Lee Classic Turret. Get Lee Ultimate Rifle dies and some extra turrets so that once the dies are set up, they can stay set up. It literally takes seconds to swap them out. I use the auto-index and do everything on the turret for handgun. I can generally crank out 100-200 rounds an hour depending on the handgun cartridge. For rifles I use it as a single stage press and manually index each operation so that I am de-priming, neck crimping and priming all 50, then charge all 50, then seat the bullets. If I full-length resize, I do that as a separate stage before the de-prime/crimp/prime stage. Getting 50 high quality rifle rounds done in an hour is a good amount - at least for me.

Like others have said, you can toss the Lee safety scale once you get something better. For a starting setup I highly recommend the electronic RCBS Chargemaster 1500. Throw an underweight charge with a scoop or something like a Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure (uses the same drums as the Lee Drum Powder Measure which comes with the kit) and hand trickle up to the desired value. There are better and there are worse, but better electronic scales can really get into the $$$ quick. For a good mechanical scale a Redding #2 or RCBS M-500 come to mind.

I started with a Dillon 650 and while it is an awesome press, unless you are cranking out thousands of 9mm, or .40 S&W, etc a month, it just isn't worth it. I felt like I "upgraded" to the Lee Turret when I tried it out as it is so much simpler to use and changing out calibers is a snap. I now have a Redding T-7 as well for various reasons, but the Lee Turret is still the main press for most of my reloading.
 
This is exactly the point I was trying to make. One perfect batch of bughole producing ammo and you'll be much less concerned with pinching every penny for your loads.

40-80rd visits with rifles - start on a single stage, learn the craft and enjoy the superior results.


Bughole producing ammo????? Maybe??? If all the stars are aligned and the moon is in its first phase for 7 hours, 7 minutes and 7 seconds.

This sort of group isn't impossible by any means but it can be extremely elusive, even for hand loaders.

First the shooter has to be capable of the proper techniques required to shoot such groups, next the firearm has to be capable of shooting such groups consistently. Next the best ammo recipe and components need to be assembled in the manner the rifle will digest and shoot in a consistent manner at known ranges.

To get all of this together reliably and repeatably at any given time can often be challenging.

Here's where the problems come in. Some firearms, no matter how expensive or high quality its components are, will not consistently and reliably shoot well. Same goes for some shooters.

Then there is the very odd firearm that will digest and shoot any cartridge designed to fit its chamber well and put it into the "bughole" group mentioned. Those are also extremely elusive. Maybe one out of a few hundred. That being said, the commercial firearms being assembled lately, as in the last decade, have been some of the best I've personally seen. In many cases a skilled gunsmith is hard pressed to equal their performance.

Now for the meat and potatoes.

Just going out an purchasing a hand loading press requires that you do some due diligence if you want to produce ammo that will shoot well. Shooting well relies on several factors coming together. First you need to know the twist rate of the bore if its a rifle, not so important if it's a handgun. Bullet length should be optimal for the twist rate. The longer the bullet the tighter the twist rate should be to stabilize it etc.

Next, what is the bullet going to be used for? Does it need to be constructed with light jackets to punch holes in paper?? Heavy jackets with expanding noses for hunting? If shooting cast lead, there are other factors again.

Now, you need to get a press that is square to the axis of its mandrel. This means that the die seat needs to be centered exactly over the center of the mandrel and the mandrel has to be able to run all the way up without run out. Yes there is a bit of play in the shell head holder. The thing is, some of us make our own shell head holders so there is little if any play. That play is designed into the shell head holder on purpose to help smooth out the misalignment of the rest of the components.

YOU have to decide which level of accuracy is acceptable for your purposes. Many of the premium bullets made today are of excellent quality and will perform reliably out past ranges most of us are capable of consistently hitting our intended targets. The thing is, they are incapable of one hole groups at any range for several different reasons. They will however perform well within acceptable parameters of accuracy to cleanly take the animals we pursue.

If you require pinpoint accuracy then you need to make sure all of the components, including yourself, are up to the standard.

If you are looking for acceptable accuracy for hunting/plinking then just about any of the modern presses are fine. Same goes for dies, which you will have to decide which type suits your needs best.

Don't forget about cast lead bullets either. They are every bit as viable as jacketed bullets if you do your homework again. Just another learning curve.

Lots of hype out there on powder/primers/cases etc. Most of it is in the beholder's head but not always. Again, it depends on your specific needs and to the degree you are anal about accuracy, which can be a very expensive addiction.

Most commercial ammunition sold today is acceptably accurate for hunting requirements, unless of course you plan to shoot beyond 300 meters.

Can you save money by handloading???? Darn right you can. The trick is not to compare apples to doughnuts. In every case where all of the components are equal or identical then hand loads can be assembled substantially cheaper than purchasing commercially loaded ammo. Also, you can save a lot of cash by purchasing components in bulk quantities. Some people like group buys.

The other thing about hand loads is that when you find the magic formula for your particular firearm, you can continue to assemble components to that standard. Commercial cartridges often will change bullets/powder/primers/cases to keep costs down but still deliver similar though not identical performance.

Purchasing large lots of components will go a long way to establishing consistency. Every time you change ANY of the components, even from lot to lot, there can be dramatic changes that will have to be worked out again. This means your costs go up again just to get back to where you were while developing a new recipe, which, if you only have small lots of components will mean this is a regular chore.

This is just the beginning of handloading. Hope it helps a bit.
 
As a recent beginner myself, I don't count the cost of the machine to reload with. It's a new hobby with it's own startup cost. Everyone here started shooting as a hobby and never thought twice about the cost of buying your first firearm and ammunition. That being said, everyone will have their own opinion, do whats best for yourself. I did lots of research for starting out. I decided to just buy once and cry once(Dillon XL650:). Was my choice the best? I don't really care! I enjoy my hobbies as well as my purchases, if I don't, over to the EE they go. Doesn't matter what you choose, if you don't like it, it will sell easily to the next new reloader.

Do what you feel is best for you!
 
Agree with the posters who said "buy a single stage first". I've been reloading since about '78, my first was a beater/used Redding "C" press, which worked great on most of the calibers I reloaded for (.270 Win/6.5 X 55/.308 Win). But I found that the longer cartridge/bullet combinations, even 30.06, didn't like the throw of the Redding. And my 444 Marlin just seemed to stress it - I kept thinking the cast frame would break. So I bought a Rockchucker a few years ago, and have never looked back. I sold the Redding to a fellow CGN'er who wasn't loading larger calibers, and as far as I know it's working out for him.

When I got into handguns, and much larger reloading runs, the single stage was a non-starter. After looking at the options, I ended up with a Hornady Lock 'n Load Progressive, and it's a gem.

YMMV, but those work for me. The LnL is only used for handgun cartridges, I only single-stage the rifle stuff.

O.N.G.
 
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Technically, a turret press is a single stage press. Only one thing happens at a time.

OP: get the turret. It's only marginally more expensive than a single stage but offers more options. You can operate it EXACTLY like a single stage by the flick of a switch should you choose so.
 
This sort of group isn't impossible by any means but it can be extremely elusive, even for hand loaders.

To get all of this together reliably and repeatably at any given time can often be challenging.

Sure. I didn't say it was a quick or easy process. If you buy cheap components, shoot cheap rifles with cheap optics and aren't a great shot then absolutely. Plenty of competitors on CGN exhibiting some very impressive results from hand loading. YMMV depending on several factors. The point is, at some point for some reloaders accuracy > cost. The problem, as you stated, is that people often compare apples to donuts.
 
I like the versatility of my Lee Classic turret press. Switching calibres takes literally seconds as all my die sets are loaded into spare turrets with one dedicated to decapping and trimming. All of the minor things that have worn out or broken can be attributed to the 30K rounds that have been loaded on it. So far its a bunch of the little black plastic squares, the spring in the large primer feeder broke and I've toasted a few decapping and .223 resizing pins. The primer levers are starting to wear out too but still usable for now. I'm not sure why the scale gets so much hate but it does the job for me. Lee claims 1/20 of a grain resolution but I've never tried it, however 1/10 is easily done. The Auto-disc powder measure with the double disc kit and the micrometer charge bar handle all my handgun and .223 loads. The Perfect powder measure works great for bigger rifle cases. The quick trim dies work well and it takes me about 12 seconds to trim and chamfer a rifle case. With the addition of a 7/8" SAE flat washer the RCBS primer pocket swager works just fine.
 
Lots of folks get Lee because of the price. No one gets a Lee because of the high quality. Most sound advice here is to start with something simple but good quality. Rock Chucker is the standard. A turret might be a little faster. Not a Lee. Buy used if you can't afford a better quality one new.
 
Lots of folks get Lee because of the price. No one gets a Lee because of the high quality. Most sound advice here is to start with something simple but good quality. Rock Chucker is the standard. A turret might be a little faster. Not a Lee. Buy used if you can't afford a better quality one new.

I find LEE a lot better the my rcbs stuff. I don't really have to worry about spent primer's all over the floor, and the Classic Turret is good enough to load 223 ammo that I use to hit dime's/penny's/ nickles at 100 yds
 
I would start with a quality single stage press. I bought a Redding magnum single stage (I was loading 338 Lapua at the time) and it is still the press I use the most. I have a Lee 1000 progressive that I use for my pistol loads and I bought a Lee turret press as well. The progressive does large batches of 9mm and 45 auto a couple times a year, the turret press hardly ever gets used and the single stage takes care of all my rifle cartridges. I don't find that the turret press speeds anything up at all since I do my loading in stages, all my brass tumbled, then gets sized/deprimed, then trimmed/chamfered in the Frankford Armoury case trim and prep center, then primed with my RCBS had primer tool, then my chargemaster combo measures out the powder charge and the single stage finishes it off.

The reason I prefer the single stage to the turret press is that it is much more solid and therefore more consistent and in order to be consistent on paper when you're shooting the rounds need to be built as consistently as possible. With the turret press there is some play throughout the system which can be worked around but where I save time is with the case prep center and the powder dispenser. Those two items have been the best investment I've made so far.
If you are just building plinking rounds and want to spend less per round then any press will do as long as you don't value your time but if you want accuracy for less than the cost of premium store bought ammo then you need to buy premium bullets and primers and spend some extra time on brass prep.
I do not anneal and I do not turn necks and I can easily get 5+ firings before I have to toss my brass (depends on the rifle, semi's are usually harder on brass).
I have also found a few loads that are easily consistent sub moa loads using my equipment as I describe. I usually use Hornady projectiles and either CCI or Federal primers, brass is always either purchased or I buy factory loads to get brass. I never pick up range brass except for pistol brass and then it gets a very good inspection before use. All brass is sorted by headstamp, never mixed except for 9mm or 45 auto.
The reason I don't pick up range brass is that I don't want to pick up brass that I have no history on, it could very well be from another handloader who has 10 firings on it and knows it's finished and therefore doesn't pick it up. On the other hand I will break my rule if I see some 308win with the factory seal on the primer, this is usually someone with an M305 who is just shooting American Eagle 150gr and letting the brass fly and my M305's need all the fresh brass I can get my hands on.

Anyway, to get you started my advice is to buy at least two current reloading manuals and also reference Hodgdon online data (DO NOT TRUST LOADS POSTED BY RANDOM PEOPLE ON THE INTERNET) a quality single stage press, an RCBS balance beam scale, a hand primer tool, a case trimmer of some sort, a volumetric powder dispenser, a powder trickler, and reloading dies for the calibers you want to load. I've had good results with Lee and RCBS dies but there are plenty of other good brands that will serve you well.
Once you're up and running you can save up and upgrade your scale to an electronic one but I would go straight to a scale/dispenser combo as the extra money is worth it in the time it can save you. I take the charge from the pan and while I'm seating a bullet the scale is churning out another charge so as soon as I've seated the bullet and inspected the final product the next charge is ready to be dumped into the next piece of brass. Same goes with a case prep center with a power trimmer, it has increased production exponentially.

Good luck
 
Lots of folks get Lee because of the price. No one gets a Lee because of the high quality. Most sound advice here is to start with something simple but good quality. Rock Chucker is the standard. A turret might be a little faster. Not a Lee. Buy used if you can't afford a better quality one new.

Lee's progressive are more finicky, but for turret or single-stage, they're just as good as rcbs or hornady.
 
Hi I was considering starting to reload as most of my rifles have expensive ammo. I know it's not the best of the best but I was thinkin of getting the lee turret press kit as it's reasonably priced and seems like a slick little rig.

Is there anything an amateur should replace right off the bat? How many rounds per hour can you do with this thing?

Also I was wondering the average cost some of you guys might be spending per decent round including/excluding brass for the following:
30-06
30-06 garand
.308
9mm
.303 British

Any help appreciated. Thanks!

First off - just ignore the Dillon fans for now. They only have one answer, and sometimes they forget to read the question.

Lee Classic Turret is a good press and a good place to start for the cartridges you are reloading. I've used a Lee turret press for over 30 years. It is a good press and will make as good ammo. Expect 100-150 rifle rounds per hour capacity - once you learn how to run it. Can probably do 200 9mm rounds per hour with the 9mm.
 
I started with the RCBS rock chucker, next a RCBS turret, I find for rifle the single is the way to go however the turret will speed up the process, a good thing re the turret is you can setup several calibers and leave it set up without changing dies
 
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