This should make powdercoating interesting

yomomma

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
103   0   1
Hmmmm

p11671A.jpg
 
I think you will find that your "coating" on gun sprayed slugs will be a bit thinner than the "shake & bake" method, at least that's been my experience. I haven't noticed any degradation in bullet performance or barrel leading as of yet but have had some "slight scuffing" of the coating when sizing. I even use the scuffed ones with out noticing any leading ''"""yet""".

One improvement with the thinner coating is less bullet base flashing (almost non-existent) but don't 'cook em on the same pan you spray on, I 'tweezer" them to a new pan otherwise I think you will get one large sheet of stuck together slugs
 
Doesn't it defeat half the purpose of you aren't coating the base?

Probably fine combined with gas checks but don't you want the plain bases to be coated?

You are right ofcourse. Main purpose for this setup is for 6.5x55 bullets. Too long and frigle to be swirling around in a tub.

One thing i thought of playing with was to cover the tin foil first. The only PB i have right now is for my 45/70.

Not really intended for my handgun bullets
 
Doesn't it defeat half the purpose of you aren't coating the base?

Probably fine combined with gas checks but don't you want the plain bases to be coated?

Actually my experience says "no" It doesn't matter whether they are "base covered" or not. The only consideration whether the base is coated or not is that the base be flat & "uniform" in form...even slugs that are partially base -covered have worked well for me, again "as long as they are uniformly flat... as well I have found no detriment to having partially or fully coated bullet nose's as long as the coating is thin and even (not gobbed).

The important part to be coated is just the rifling engaging sidewalls/shank.

An example of the versatility of PC....I gave a buddy of mine a bag of 200 gr. .452 SWC that I had pc'd "up" to .459 to try in his guide gun. Yesterday he phoned me after shooting a bunch of them, he was quite surprised that those "home grown lipstick pistol slugs" into a "all the hole's touching group" at 100 yrds. I had the same results with my 26" barreled "Marlin Cowboy" and spoke of it before on here but that is the first test by someone else that I know of.
 
You are right ofcourse. Main purpose for this setup is for 6.5x55 bullets. Too long and frigle to be swirling around in a tub.

One thing i thought of playing with was to cover the tin foil first. The only PB i have right now is for my 45/70.

Not really intended for my handgun bullets

6.5mm and 6 mm bullets powder coat just fine using shake and bake.
Parchment paper makes a great inexpensive non stick surface or you can take a sheet of 1/8" aluminium and drill holes just under bore diameter that will allow you to bake the bullets nose down in the oven.
A thin ring without powder coat on the nose of a bullet does not effect accuracy.
 
You will regret using tinfoil to bake on. It sticks to the bullet from melted paint. Buy one of those dollar store silicone cookie sheets and go to it. 9mm/40cal/45cal are just laid on the silicone cookie sheet and baked. 45/70 are coated and stood up, then baked. Shake and bake is working fine here. The amount of powder in the bucket dictates how much sticks to the bullets. I'm just using princess auto blue powder coat.
 
You will regret using tinfoil to bake on. It sticks to the bullet from melted paint. Buy one of those dollar store silicone cookie sheets and go to it. 9mm/40cal/45cal are just laid on the silicone cookie sheet and baked. 45/70 are coated and stood up, then baked. Shake and bake is working fine here. The amount of powder in the bucket dictates how much sticks to the bullets. I'm just using princess auto blue powder coat.

From all account non-stick aluminum foil works just fine. Sizing die will knock off any flashing.

Also silicone is not conductive so no good for my application
For my all my other bullets i use parchment paper.

Again this is just for my 6.5 bullets

Oh and ive been powdercoating for over two years.........
 
I’ve used that gun for the last two years and its a good piece of equipment. I’ve done an estimated 8000 rnds of 9mm and 45 ACP. My only suggestion is to remove the “dispersal” plug at the front to get a solid stream of powder on target. I use Prismatic Powders because of the colour choices (copper penny is my current favourite) and tweezer the coated units onto a silicone baking pad so you can sift and reuse the overspray powder.
 
Back
Top Bottom