Thoughts on s&w 19?
- Thread starter nntw
- Start date
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
The 19 is a lightweight high quality revolver. It is the perfect size for a .38 target revolver but a little on the skinny side for a 357 magnum. The few times you will shoot 357 mag, you will know what I mean. Stick with 158 grain 357 magnum loads....avoid 125 grain loads like the plague. With 38 spl (regular loads), use any weight of projectile and you'll be fine.
Having said that, I would love to have one because 98 percent of my revolver shooting is with 158 grain LSWC .38 +Ps, which is IMO a perfect match for the 19.
If you really like the size and weight of the 19, check out the Ruger Security Six. That is my favorite revolver right now, perfect ergonomic for my hands and truly magnum capable.
Just like easyrider said, 158gr lead loads when you shoot 357's and all will be well. They are a very nice revolver and quite affordable too. If you get a 19-3 or earlier they have the pinned barrel and recessed chambers which is a nice feature though not necessary really.
The Cocker
CGN Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley B.C
I have a 19-3. Very accurate with .38's. Mine hates winchester winclean .357. It makes a nice cool fireball, but I can't hit the side of a barn with that ammo. Other .357 heavier loads have been fine though.
The winclean I belive was 125 grain. The American eagle 158 gr were fine. My friend loaded some 158's for me that it shot accurately.
The winclean I belive was 125 grain. The American eagle 158 gr were fine. My friend loaded some 158's for me that it shot accurately.
Jojo, a question of that sort would be better asked in a new thread in the Gunsmithing forum.
As for wondering about buying a 19 there is NO WONDERING about it! Buy it and enjoy! And then while you're waiting for it to arrive order a Wolff spring kit for it. Use the lightest return block spring in the kit in connection with the new main spring. How nice this makes the trigger feel in both single and double action has to be felt to be believed. In fact on my own 19 I not only used the 11lb return block spring but I also cut a coil and a half from it to slightly further lighten the trigger pull.
As for wondering about buying a 19 there is NO WONDERING about it! Buy it and enjoy! And then while you're waiting for it to arrive order a Wolff spring kit for it. Use the lightest return block spring in the kit in connection with the new main spring. How nice this makes the trigger feel in both single and double action has to be felt to be believed. In fact on my own 19 I not only used the 11lb return block spring but I also cut a coil and a half from it to slightly further lighten the trigger pull.
19's are very nice revolvers. I have two, a 2.5" RB and a 4" SB. Keep in mind that the problems with high pressure 357 loads (125 gr bullets at 1500 fps nominally) came about when the police departments issuing them mandated a "only practice with duty ammo" policy. Most of us won't put that many full power loads down the pipe. - dan
Thoughts on a S&W M19? . . You bet, a S&W M19 is good choice for a revolver. I've had one for a long time and still tight and still looking good.
As easyrider said, stay away from 125 gr. ammo. The bullet is not long enough to close the barrel to cylinder gap before it gets seated in the rifling allowing the gases to escape through the B/C and cut the forcing cone. Usually occurs on the bottom where it's machined flat for cylinder clearance. This becomes multiplied with certain powders, such as Win. 296.
Have used 158 gr. 357 ammo without any problems. I used to reload the 357 cases down to 6.5 gr. of unique topped off with a 158 gr. SWC. I still shoot plenty of 38 spec. ammo, mainly because I've been getting a good deal on it. The only problem is a tad extra cleaning of the charge holes.
Anyways, back to the M19. You gotta love'm.
Here's a fairly recent picture of mine I bought in 1975, at Guncraft in Calgary.
S&W Model 19-3
Regards:
Rod
. .
As easyrider said, stay away from 125 gr. ammo. The bullet is not long enough to close the barrel to cylinder gap before it gets seated in the rifling allowing the gases to escape through the B/C and cut the forcing cone. Usually occurs on the bottom where it's machined flat for cylinder clearance. This becomes multiplied with certain powders, such as Win. 296.
Have used 158 gr. 357 ammo without any problems. I used to reload the 357 cases down to 6.5 gr. of unique topped off with a 158 gr. SWC. I still shoot plenty of 38 spec. ammo, mainly because I've been getting a good deal on it. The only problem is a tad extra cleaning of the charge holes.
Anyways, back to the M19. You gotta love'm.
Here's a fairly recent picture of mine I bought in 1975, at Guncraft in Calgary.
S&W Model 19-3
Regards:
Rod
. .
Thanks for all the feedback! Have seen one that I'm considering.
... what I think would be ideal for me at this point is a .22, a K22 or 17- it would be a lot cheaper to feed while I developed my skills! I'm watching the EE, and Elwood Epps has one but they say the screws have been chewed up a bit.
So if anyone has any leads and is willing to share them, that would be appreciated!
... what I think would be ideal for me at this point is a .22, a K22 or 17- it would be a lot cheaper to feed while I developed my skills! I'm watching the EE, and Elwood Epps has one but they say the screws have been chewed up a bit.
So if anyone has any leads and is willing to share them, that would be appreciated!
Look for both and buy whatever comes up that is in nice shape and tests out as locking up well. Then let your account recover for a short time and start the search for the other companion.
As for developing your skills the 19 will aid you greatly. I was a new shooter a year and a half ago. I didn't own a gun yet and had just taken the course and was awaiting my RPAL being approved. I had shot roughly 300 to 500 rounds through various semis at the local Rent-A-Gun range and at the end of a rainy afternoon I wanted to try something different. So instead of a box of 12ga I tried the odd looking 4" barrel 19 that was in the case with a box of .38Spl. My first cylinder grouped about as well as I'd shot any of the semis. The second cylinder grouped way tighter. I think it was about 3 to 3.5 inches at 10 yards. My third cylinder worth was even a little tighter. The darn gun almost aimed itself! ! ! I was not only hooked half way through the second cylinder but I was gaffed and hauled aboard by the end of the third cylinder on revolvers. Even now after much practice and shooting pretty decently with my own CZ Shadow I still do better with my revolvers. 2.5 inch groups even with my old guy eyes and shaky nerves are not uncommon at around 12 to 13 yards.
So shop for both to avoid letting a good one get away. But be fussy. Look for really good lockup. With the hammer cocked you should feel zero to just barely any shake in the cylinder either front to back or in rotation. Any you feel should be no more than the thickness of a piece of writing paper.
As for developing your skills the 19 will aid you greatly. I was a new shooter a year and a half ago. I didn't own a gun yet and had just taken the course and was awaiting my RPAL being approved. I had shot roughly 300 to 500 rounds through various semis at the local Rent-A-Gun range and at the end of a rainy afternoon I wanted to try something different. So instead of a box of 12ga I tried the odd looking 4" barrel 19 that was in the case with a box of .38Spl. My first cylinder grouped about as well as I'd shot any of the semis. The second cylinder grouped way tighter. I think it was about 3 to 3.5 inches at 10 yards. My third cylinder worth was even a little tighter. The darn gun almost aimed itself! ! ! I was not only hooked half way through the second cylinder but I was gaffed and hauled aboard by the end of the third cylinder on revolvers. Even now after much practice and shooting pretty decently with my own CZ Shadow I still do better with my revolvers. 2.5 inch groups even with my old guy eyes and shaky nerves are not uncommon at around 12 to 13 yards.
So shop for both to avoid letting a good one get away. But be fussy. Look for really good lockup. With the hammer cocked you should feel zero to just barely any shake in the cylinder either front to back or in rotation. Any you feel should be no more than the thickness of a piece of writing paper.
