thread for 858 buttstock removal

MikiP

MikiP

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Can someone PLEASE direct me to the thread detailing the 858 buttstock removal? The one with someone detailing the socket size I think. I've tried the Tire Iron (21" Mastercraft- good for width, but the tip is too thick to slot in properly). Was gonna use a grabbit bit in the hole of the bolt to back it out, but I'm nervous of it making a bigger mess than what it needs to be.

I've done the search function, and there is nothing coming up.

Mods, could you make it a sticky?

thanks.
 
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Go get one of those $16 massive gripped heavy flatheat screwdrivers. Get the gun between your legs, get both hands on that screwdriver and turn that bugger!

(the whole hard to turn the bolt thing surprises me - between enfields and CZ's I have yet to come across one that I couldn't take apart with my screwdriver and some elbow grease.
 
H Wally said:
Go get one of those $16 massive gripped heavy flatheat screwdrivers. Get the gun between your legs, get both hands on that screwdriver and turn that bugger!

(the whole hard to turn the bolt thing surprises me - between enfields and CZ's I have yet to come across one that I couldn't take apart with my screwdriver and some elbow grease.
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Its not the strength I lack- I have the vice, and the elbow grease. I need specifics of tool to use
 
MikiP said:
Its not the strength I lack- I have the vice, and the elbow grease. I need specifics of tool to use
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Real. Big. Screwdriver.

If the blade is an inch wide it will still work. One with a hex or square shank is even better as you can put a wrench on to turn it while you lean on the screw driver.
 
Yes crappy tire does have it. Also use your old lady's blow dryer or better yet a heat gun on in side of the reciever pointing at the bottom end of the bolt. Get it nice and warm than flip it around and crank that big @$$ screw driver.
 
Got it. Used Mastercraft maximum "GrabIt" Sz #4 with a 9mm socket on a 6" extension, 1/2" drive Ratchet. Should have did that first as per this
shiftybullet: I put my CZ858 in a vise (wrapped in a rag). I took a ratchet with a 8'' extention, a socket that fit the right size EZ Out. Tapped the extention attatched to the EZ out into the hole in the screw and then simply turned to the left. EZ as pie.
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as found on the 858 stickyinstead of doing it at 11pm.

Thanks to all that helped
 
Butt Stock Removal Tools used

Used Mastercraft maximum "GrabIt" Sz #4 with a 9mm socket on a 6" extension, 1/2" drive Ratchet.
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Here's the pics- sorry not clearer

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IMG_0104_2.jpg



Put the #4 GrabIt in the 9mm, then in the centre hole of the bolt (no need to bore out!) Made contact with 6" drive on the inside top of the Butt nearest where the end plate would be (if your confused, it'll make sense when you do it). Turned two 1/4 turns to the left, and it loosened off

Hope this can help someone
 
Snap-on part #GF22. This is a flat blade driver socket made to work with a standard 3/8 drive. You can use a long extension and a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar to apply a lot of torque. I did have to grind the tip on the Snap-on socket to make it thin enough to fit the bolt slot. It didn't take much and it worked perfectly for me.
 
I bought the "+" tire iron with the different size lug nut and flat side. came out easy because the + gave the leverage.
 
Tried all of the above, and found that the Blade on the Cross style Tire Iron was too thick to fit in the slot, same with the GM Tire Iron, and the cheap Czech metal was soft so it would strip easy.

I was close to sawing off the butt, and then trying it again. but really wanted to save it for a prospective buyer- besides I'm all about right tool for the job with minimal destruction.

My other thought was using a narrow blade screwdriver, putting it in the centre of the hole, hammering it in the softer metal, and then try it.

But, as I showed with my pics, that is what worked the best with minimal ####ery/damage
 
Well, having tried a myriad of Flat Head screwdriver options, I think the #4 GrabIt seated in the hole of the bolt is the best bang for buck. I think there is a variation in the slot width/depth on the screw that not a definitive answer of "Tire iron", is a best fit for all. A tapered reverse thread tool such as the Grab It offers more contact surface/surface area used, better control and torque force on centre with a ratchet or flex arm, is just plain easier than f**king around with sawing off butt stocks and making sure you don't hit the bolt, grinding down flat heads on tire irons to fit, making sure you're not stripping the bolt head etc...

Just my opinion, but less variables equals less things to go wrong. I was left wondering which should I choose, after reading all the thread responses. If I had to do it over, I'd have used this method first. Anyone else reading this to find out, I HIGHLY recommend this method.

But of course, the colloquial YMMV! :D
 
Tire Iron

MikiP said:
Tried all of the above, and found that the Blade on the Cross style Tire Iron was too thick to fit in the slot, same with the GM Tire Iron, and the cheap Czech metal was soft so it would strip easy.

I was close to sawing off the butt, and then trying it again. but really wanted to save it for a prospective buyer- besides I'm all about right tool for the job with minimal destruction.

My other thought was using a narrow blade screwdriver, putting it in the centre of the hole, hammering it in the softer metal, and then try it.

But, as I showed with my pics, that is what worked the best with minimal f**kery/damage
Click to expand...

I remember reading about some one using a tire iron. Before use they ground the tip on a bench grinder to the right thickness for the slotted screw.
 
goldenbb said:
I remember reading about some one using a tire iron. Before use they ground the tip on a bench grinder to the right thickness for the slotted screw.
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Kinda like I said here?
s just plain easier than f**king around with sawing off butt stocks and making sure you don't hit the bolt, grinding down flat heads on tire irons to fit, making sure you're not stripping the bolt head etc...
Click to expand...

A, redundancy... it's place resides in safety and contingency planning. Not so much in speaking.
 
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