tig welding holes
- Thread starter sealevel
- Start date
I would like to redo this unsuccessful repair that was done by the previous owner. I would like to remove or redrill what appears to be "liquid steel" and use the technique we are discussing in this post. Any suggestions? As well, anyone can help me to find traditional engraving tools. I don’t like the pneumatic one.
You can but 1/8th inch square High Speed Steel bits from about any place that sells to machinists. Couple bucks apiece for 4 inch long ones the last time I bought some.
Easy to shape on a grinder, sharpen on any stone suitable for such. Might be handy to make a sharpening jig to keep from faceting off the edges.
A golf ball with a suitable hole will make a pretty decent handle, or make a brass sleeve, if you want to use hammers to drive the engraver. Mainly to keep the hammer face from getting chopped up.
Most Jewellery suppliers will be able to sell you engraving tools. More money, less work to get where you need to go.
Is the part removable? Heat will cause the epoxy to break down, burn away. Some really fast set epoxies are prone to dissolve in Model Airplane fuel. Not sure if the Alcohol, the Nitro-methane, or the oils were responsible, but continued exposure to five minute epoxy usually ended in a gelled goo. No experience directly, with other solvents or strippers that I have used, but methylene chloride stripper 'should' eat the stuff, if it works on epoxy paints. Look for "Aircraft Stripper" or a spray can of Paint, Gasket, and Decal Remover, at a real auto parts place, one that does body shop supplies. Wear chem resistant gloves, eye protection, etc., and work near a source of running water. the stuff burns like a MoFo if it gets on your skin, tends to focus your attention fairly well. Water neutralizes this.
It doesn't look a bad color match as is. Worse in real life? I would start by very carefully finishing the rough surface down to the parent material level, and see if it blends a bunch better then, then maybe decide from there. May be less to lose as far as doing more damage than good goes.
Easy to shape on a grinder, sharpen on any stone suitable for such. Might be handy to make a sharpening jig to keep from faceting off the edges.
A golf ball with a suitable hole will make a pretty decent handle, or make a brass sleeve, if you want to use hammers to drive the engraver. Mainly to keep the hammer face from getting chopped up.
Most Jewellery suppliers will be able to sell you engraving tools. More money, less work to get where you need to go.
Is the part removable? Heat will cause the epoxy to break down, burn away. Some really fast set epoxies are prone to dissolve in Model Airplane fuel. Not sure if the Alcohol, the Nitro-methane, or the oils were responsible, but continued exposure to five minute epoxy usually ended in a gelled goo. No experience directly, with other solvents or strippers that I have used, but methylene chloride stripper 'should' eat the stuff, if it works on epoxy paints. Look for "Aircraft Stripper" or a spray can of Paint, Gasket, and Decal Remover, at a real auto parts place, one that does body shop supplies. Wear chem resistant gloves, eye protection, etc., and work near a source of running water. the stuff burns like a MoFo if it gets on your skin, tends to focus your attention fairly well. Water neutralizes this.
It doesn't look a bad color match as is. Worse in real life? I would start by very carefully finishing the rough surface down to the parent material level, and see if it blends a bunch better then, then maybe decide from there. May be less to lose as far as doing more damage than good goes.
Thank you for your help and advise
