Tikka bolt stop mod. How to ?

Canada tail

Canada tail

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Hi Everyone. I am trying really hard to file down this little part in order to modify a tikka short action bolt stop to one that fits long action calibers
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I used a file but after three hours of filing it barely removed any material. What kind of tool do I need to make this happen ? I called a few machine shops in Ottawa but they do not work on gun parts. Any leads are appreciated. Thanks.
 
You wish to make the top one look like the bottom one?
Scribe an accurate line.
Drill a hole to match the angle return.
One could use a small hand grinder and proceed meticulously.
Or a zippy cut wheel and chase your scribed line leaving a bit of line.
Then proceed to file the rest to fitmint.
 
The way the bolt stop is made now on factory rifles by the time you get it to be a long action stop there isn't enough metal left to stop the bolt reliably. I tried this and almost ended up eating the bolt. Called stoeger canada and ordered the "kit" it was $80 though last year. It is the same kit as in the picture you posted.

I used a dremel btw
 
kamlooky said:
You wish to make the top one look like the bottom one?
Scribe an accurate line.
Drill a hole to match the angle return.
One could use a small hand grinder and proceed meticulously.
Or a zippy cut wheel and chase your scribed line leaving a bit of line.
Then proceed to file the rest to fitmint.
Click to expand...
Id try this. Have a small cup of water to dip the piece in before it gets to hot to handle. Done it successfully on other small nic nacs without pooching the heat treatment
 
Thanks for the info. I just tried to drill it but the bit snapped. I may need to pick up some titanium bits or sth.
kamlooky said:
You wish to make the top one look like the bottom one?
Scribe an accurate line.
Drill a hole to match the angle return.
One could use a small hand grinder and proceed meticulously.
Or a zippy cut wheel and chase your scribed line leaving a bit of line.
Then proceed to file the rest to fitmint.
Click to expand...
 
hometownhero said:
The way the bolt stop is made now on factory rifles by the time you get it to be a long action stop there isn't enough metal left to stop the bolt reliably. I tried this and almost ended up eating the bolt. Called stoeger canada and ordered the "kit" it was $80 though last year. It is the same kit as in the picture you posted.

I used a dremel btw
Click to expand...
$80 for this kit is robbery. I m getting a dremal today and see if I can grind it down. I ve heard ppl doing this to avoid the $80 kit.
 
Hank44 said:
Id try this. Have a small cup of water to dip the piece in before it gets to hot to handle. Done it successfully on other small nic nacs without pooching the heat treatment
Click to expand...

Good idea although I wonder if the heat treat on the stop really matters much.
 
Canada tail said:
$80 for this kit is robbery. I m getting a dremal today and see if I can grind it down. I ve heard ppl doing this to avoid the $80 kit.
Click to expand...

Yes it is but after grinding the one that came with the gun and then the bolt coming out the back of the rifle because there is almost nothing left to catch the bolt one has no choice. The newer stops are also different then the older ones so that is why it is pretty much not abale to grind them down anymore. The old ones were solid where the bolt catches the new ones have 2 little hollowed out portions
 
I also have the newer one here. But I think if I grind it down from the very top to creat an angle to leave the tab deep enough I may be able to do it.
 
Id for sure grind it before getting a new one, id probably opt for the bench grinder. if you have one you could use a metal band saw to get close and then use a file for fitting. Stoning it would also be a good touch.

If you're worried about heat treatment only take a little off at a time so it doesn't get hot, and keep it coated in cutting oil.
 
Nothing wrong with a bit of DIY. But be careful to ruin the heat treat. My thought would be, Why would Tikka perform the additional activity and cost of a heat treat on the part if prototyping didnt determine value in it.
If this part is constantly being contacted, deformation could occur in the soft metal and develop slop and play, the last thing you want in your rifle.
For me, considering the time and the risk, i would buy the replacement part.
 
Here is a pic of the long and short action stops. As you can see if you grind down the newer short action stop you have almost no metal to grab the bolt. There is thousandths of an inch left to stop the bolt. It might work for a few times but those little tabs that are left bend pretty easily then there is nothing holding the bolt in the action.

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kamlooky said:
After reading hth notes, I'd go collect beer cans along the highway and purchase the new prawper part.
Click to expand...

Is that how you fixed the M/C??
You'll have a pattern to measure from and the $80.00 is a cheap price to pay for the learning experience.
My experience with titanium drill bits was not to buy the ones from Canadian Tire.
I burned the titanium right off of it, mind you it was a 7/8 hole in a trailer hitch frame.
Cutting Lube is your friend when using those drill bits .
Rob
 
Those are powder metallurgy parts.

Harder than a mother in laws heart.

You should understand that if a file won't touch the stuff, a crappy 'titanium' drill (which is a shiny coating, and a lot of marketing hooey) DEFINATELY will not work. Since you did not seem to know that, I will suggest that coin spent on a carbide drill bit, would be money wasted too.
Now add to the above, that no matter how you grind it, you won't put metal back on in the places it will need some, if you want to end up with one like the bottom one, if you start from the top one. Not gonna happen.

Buy the proper part, or drill, cut and file a new one out of steel and finish it to match the rifle.

If you really did spend three hours before figuring out that filing wasn't working, I gotta wonder what else you powers of observation have missed.
 
Im guessing he has one of the first gen bolt stops that are solid not hollowed out like the other pictures that are on here. So it will be fine when he gets it all filed down. I did mine with a dremel with cut off disc and a bench grinder. Go slow and be carefull with the dremel cutoff discs. Finish it off with a fine file and you should be left with a nice part.
 
mudpro said:
Im guessing he has one of the first gen bolt stops that are solid not hollowed out like the other pictures that are on here. So it will be fine when he gets it all filed down. I did mine with a dremel with cut off disc and a bench grinder. Go slow and be carefull with the dremel cutoff discs. Finish it off with a fine file and you should be left with a nice part.
Click to expand...

Yeah, well, about that....

Guessing isn't going to do him any good, unless he ups the ante a bit and provides a bit more info.

If it really is an $80 part, which seems like a right bloody rip-off, then the smart money is on making a new one from scratch and selling the old one on the EE, though it's a little late now it's been molested.

If it is solid, he has at least a chance of pulling it off with some careful work with a cut-off wheel.

Otherwise, it's a hacksaw and file job. And a drill press, with regular old drill bits. And a buck or two worth of wet or dry sandpaper to do the finish work with. A couple wraps around a Popsicle stick makes a dandy fine file for that sort of work.

I will casually suggest that a new file be bought, as the old one is like to be thoroughly buggered.

If a fella really wanted to be flash, then spring for some Starrett flat stock of the correct thickness, and of a known material medium or high carbon steel, which can be hardened fairly simply. Once hardened, polish the part up and apply heat slowly until the color changes to a nice yellow or blue. Lots of videos on youtube. Some even with worthwhile info in them! :)

A stroke of the file is a pretty standard shop practice to test how hard a material is, and thus, whether the tools will cut it easily or not. But you need to be observant of what exactly is happening when you do try the file, to understand what is going on.

I like files, great tools, but generally mistreated and misunderstood.

Cheers
Trev
 
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