Tikka fails to fire

Have you dissasembled the gun previously, as in taken the bolt apart?? If not, I would have to say that either the firing pin is broken or the mainspring has slipped or may be broken itself. Google tikka t3 bolt dissasembly.
 
Cole said:
Have you dissasembled the gun previously, as in taken the bolt apart?? If not, I would have to say that either the firing pin is broken or the mainspring has slipped or may be broken itself. Google tikka t3 bolt dissasembly.
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This ^^^^

Could very well be as simple as some junk in the bolt. I've dealt with a few T3's that wouldn't fire (or cycle the bolt) from binding on the firing pin bearing surface.

Best to just dissasemble the bolt, then inspect and clean the passage way/firing pin.

Lots of vids on YouTube if your not familiar with how.
 
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i had that with my 9.3x62. no head space, no fire pin no stock problems just brass.

tell us more.

factory, reloaded and caliber?

did you try different kind of brass?

mine was not a tikka but just to help you to dig in ...
 
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bam7mm said:
Firing pin hits and dimples primer but does not fire. Gun is less than six months old
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Have you fired it before or is this the first time ?
I have had two T3s in 9.3 and no firing issues at all, but mine shot only handloads.
As a matter of fact I will never forgive myself for parting with them.
Sorry, my whining is no help to to you, as others have said maybe strip the bolt for starters and go from there.
If you have no luck finding the reason then take it to a gunsmith ?
 
If u Google Tikka misfire you will find they have had that issue with no explanation as to why. One of mine did when new. A 223. It went away it seems anyway it has not done it after the first 150 shots or so. The primer would just have a dimple and it would actually push the shoulder of the brass back. The firing pin on the Tikka comes through the bolt face a lot and the springs are super strong. All I can come up with is something rubbing or something like that majorly slowed the pin down. I found nothing when I disassembled the bolt.
 
Ah I guess I shouldn't have made that comment. I don't see anything wrong with tikka... I just don't think they are that much better than anything else. I guess I was rebelling against the hype lol.
 
Since the rifle is 6 months old, has it worked properly up until now? Are we talking about one misfire, an occasional misfire, or a refusal to fire anything? Will the misfire fire on a second attempt to shoot it?

If the rifle has worked normally up until now, something has changed, either rifle related or ammo related. Excessive headspace could produce a misfire, but brass failure would quickly point to such a problem from the first time you fired the rifle. Sometimes misfires are a result of light firing pin strikes, and can be resolved with a new firing pin spring. If the bolt is degreased, clean, and free of damage, you probably have an ammo problem.

Have you changed the brand of ammo you've been shooting up until now, or changed to another brand of primer in you handload? Some primers, particularly the primers in military surplus ammo, tend to have hard/thick cups. If your ammo is handloaded, and the primer was not bottomed out in the primer pocket, combined with a slightly expanded primer pocket, the primer could move enough to cushion the impact from the firing pin, causing it not to fire, although one it should only occur occasionally, and the round should fire on a subsequent try. If your primers somehow became contaminated with oil, the priming compound will desensitize, and round will misfire.
 
I know someone who had this exact same problem: in the end it turned out to be exceptionally tight tolerances, too viscous of gun oil and dirt. The Tikka is machined very well and is in no way like some sloppy war milsurp since the old sloppy milsurps were designed to be able to fire when caked in mud, the Tikka is not capable of even the slightest grime in the bolt. When I say "slightest grime" I literally mean a thin film you wouldn't see at arm's length.

In the end cleaning the bolt very well and changing to a very, very thin oil completely solved the problem.

As for the "unknown issues" with them: Unofficially of course, Beretta Holding (who owns Beretta USA, Benelli, Franchi, Sako, Stoeger, Tikka, Uberti, and the Burris Optics company) did not want to openly say that their rifles are too tight, too good and too well machined... they cannot get any grime in them at all.
 
If the tolerances were that tight, do you think the Canadian government would have chosen a Tikka-based rifle for Northern Canadian duties? Or, are the Ranger rifles more sloppy and forgiving?
 
The Kurgan said:
If the tolerances were that tight, do you think the Canadian government would have chosen a Tikka-based rifle for Northern Canadian duties? Or, are the Ranger rifles more sloppy and forgiving?
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What I know for absolute fact was a firing pin that failed to move as intended: it had actually in this case jammed forward. When it went for warranty and was returned the official warranty location (I believe Steoger Canada) replied that they had simply disassembled and cleaned the bolt. They advised not to use such a thick oil as the only fault they could find was "grime" in the bolt, specifically in the firing pin spring. I was personally able to see the problem myself and read the correspondence that came back from warranty.

As for the conversation where they "let slip" about tight tolerances and minor grime causing problems: that I was not personally privy to.

The Canadian Ranger Rifle and the choice made is not for me to be concerned with: it could be anything from a fix resulting in the tolerances could have been changed as a result of the issues... to the Canadian Taxpayer is going to be footing a lot of cleaning for those bolts. I don't know.
 
when it happened in mine it would actually set the shoulder of the 223 brass back. and not fire on the second and third time, just keep setting the shoulder back. tikka firing pins come through the bolt face a long way, way more than average. the primer had a light strike yet it set the shoulder back. the pin spring is wicked strong. that tells me something slowed down the speed of the pin. a lot. a once misfired round in the tikka would go off fine in my ruger. a twice or more misfired round in the tikka would not go off in anything. I would pull the bullet so it engages the rifling and shoot it to get my brass.
 
That's interesting Prairie lover, never had an issue with my T3 223 and I have lost count of whats gone through it.
Brass life is great, I have several 223s and I depend on my T3 to test loads for my F-Class 40X BR.
If a given bullet doesn't shoot well from the T3s 8" twist it will not shoot in my Remington either.
I seriously hope you can fix your problem..
 
Sounds to me like you have an ammo problem - perhaps you have dud primers, or you sized the cases excessively. How can you tell that the firing pin is setting the shoulders back (as opposed to the case being excessively sized in the first place)?
 
prairie lover said:
when it happened in mine it would actually set the shoulder of the 223 brass back. and not fire on the second and third time, just keep setting the shoulder back. tikka firing pins come through the bolt face a long way, way more than average. the primer had a light strike yet it set the shoulder back. the pin spring is wicked strong. that tells me something slowed down the speed of the pin. a lot. a once misfired round in the tikka would go off fine in my ruger. a twice or more misfired round in the tikka would not go off in anything. I would pull the bullet so it engages the rifling and shoot it to get my brass.
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I must be slower than normal this morning; I've read your post several times now and I'm still not sure what you're telling us. Are you saying that the firing pin hit the primer hard enough to set back the shoulder of the cartridge? Then you say you would pull the bullet to engage the rifling and shoot it to get the brass. Well if you initially intended to shoot the round without the bullet engaging the rifling, you must be increasing the COAL to make up for the excessive headspace of the cartridge with the set back shoulder, so the firing pin strikes the primer with sufficient force to fire the round.

Take it from me, no matter how fast the firing pin is driven, it cannot set back the cartridge case shoulder; the firing pin would pierce the primer, and compress the anvil and soft priming compound into bottom of the primer pocket long before there as any deformation to the shoulder. I submit that if your cartridge has enough movement in the chamber to result in a misfire, you have created dangerously excessive headspace when you resize, or your rifle chamber has excessive headspace, and you have misinterpreted this as a set back shoulder. But check the height of your shell holder to ensure its within spec, and if it, and the length of your resizing die are correct, I urge you to get a gunsmith to check your rifle's chamber dimensions.
 
The first thing to do is strip down the bolt and give it a good internal cleaning with solvent and a brush. At the same time you can easily check and measure firing pin protrusion. There are any number of reasons for a FTF but in effective troubleshooting you have to shot art at the beginning. That's it's basically new doesn't rule this out, if anything thing it makes it more likely to be the problem.
 
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